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  • Tinting the hatch window

    Anyone have any tips for tinting the hatch window with that DIY tint? Already tried it once and wasted some of the tint, but I've noticed that a couple people here have their rear windows tinted. Is there some sort of trick to doing it?

  • #2
    I had a shop do mine.
    Brian
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2274977



    93 GL modyfied!!!
    :fish:

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    • #3
      how much did you pay for it? did you get all four or just the hatch?
      89 L, hopefully returning from the dead soon with a little more power... :twisted:
      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...77-my-89-build
      92 integra, daily driver, broke a clutch disc, sold
      New dd, 02 Nissan sentra, 1.8 5 spd

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      • #4
        I had the side windows and rear hatch done. It was around $200 if I remember right. Been 5 years.
        Brian
        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2274977



        93 GL modyfied!!!
        :fish:

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        • #5
          I already have the rear sides done, those were easy since I just took the windows out and did it. I was thinking of removing the hatch and then trying it, but was wondering if anyone else had better methods.

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          • #6
            I need my tint redone on the back as it'd bubbled badly. Im scared that it'll rip the rear demister off if i remove the dodgy tint that's on there

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            • #7
              I had a shop do all of mine (all 5, plus a stripe across the windshield) forr under $200 at a shop in PA, with a full lifetime warranty.
              Simon - pimptiva.com

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              • #8
                i tinted mine myself and it just took lots of time and used a heat gun so it made the tint take the shape of the window...that way you take out the "fingers" and you dont get bubbles and ridges in it once you apply it to the inside
                Daily Driver: 90 Festiva 5 spd. lime green, brush guard
                Another Toy: 06 Harley Sportster 883, intake and exhaust

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                • #9
                  tint the outside with scratch resistant tint, no bubbles or worries about tearing the defrost off if it needs to be removed.
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                  • #10
                    I went through three rolls of tint learning to heat shrink - I coulda gotten buy on the secont roll but I just wasnt happy with it.

                    91 L - modified to SLX- "Tin Can Project"
                    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2850897
                    92 GL - parts car
                    97 aspire - parts car
                    87 323 DX - daily driver

                    Visit My Store - New Products available!
                    http://www.cafepress.com/tunner

                    Car enthusiasts will respect all makes and models that preform.
                    Brand enthusiasts are the root of all problems in the car community.

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                    • #11
                      I have a vinyl sticker on the outside so I can't really put the tint on there.

                      Festiva_tunner do you need special heat-shrink tint for that? or how does it work? The stuff I bought you just spray both sides with a bit of mildly soapy water and stick it on.

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                      • #12
                        I forget the brand I use but it costs 24 dollars a roll and you can do a rear window with one roll, or both side windows. its not the static cling type make sure its the dry glue style. make sure when you buy it that the grain is vertical and not horizontal otherwise your heat shrinking will be a pain. just keep working the fingers out until it lays smooth. I found if you actually take the hatch off the car it makes it alot easier to do. I do the wet shrinking process, where you lay it out on the outside of the window and fit it to the shape. having a vinyl on the window will make it considerably harder. just don't shrink that area as much until you get it inside. when you go to trim the excess for the rubber seal put a bright light on the inside shining out because the inner seal is actually fatter than the outer (at least on mine). another thing you could do if you have another hatch you could shrink it to that has no vinyl then just transfer it to your hatch. just make sure the surface is immaculately clean both in and out so you don't get the little white dots all over, this is actually air under the tint due to dirt. Make sure you use a actual heat gun though because a hair drier doesn't get hot enough

                        91 L - modified to SLX- "Tin Can Project"
                        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2850897
                        92 GL - parts car
                        97 aspire - parts car
                        87 323 DX - daily driver

                        Visit My Store - New Products available!
                        http://www.cafepress.com/tunner

                        Car enthusiasts will respect all makes and models that preform.
                        Brand enthusiasts are the root of all problems in the car community.

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                        • #13
                          when i did my rear window i did it in 4 stripes, start at the bottom, do a stripe, then the next, then the next... i put a tiny but of over-lap on each one (the tint will shrink a little later and having dark stripes looks better than having areas where it separates!). Took some time but it looks plenty good enough for me.

                          also, i used the static cling on my rear window since what i used is too dark for the law, just in case i ever had to take it off. both of my side windows are regular tint though.
                          ~Nate

                          the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                          Current cars:
                          91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                          1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                          2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                          FOTY 2008 winner!

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                          • #14
                            The way skeeter ^^^ says is a good way to start. But, as you overlap each thin strip, use a SHARP razor to cut a line all the way across in the overlap. This makes both strips line up perfectly, and takes out the thin stripes of darker tint. Using the thin strips of tint make it easier to follow the curve of the window.
                            Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                            Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                            "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                            • #15
                              ^ you can do that if you use standard tint on the back window and you are very carefull, however since i used the static cling i was worried about it "shrinking" back a little and so just left the 1/16" of over-lap. You cant even tell unless you look close b/c they blend in with the defroster lines.
                              ~Nate

                              the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                              Current cars:
                              91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                              1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                              2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                              FOTY 2008 winner!

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