5) glass does not turn yellow
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2B1 Headlight Conversion
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The round eyes are cool looking. I had everything needed to do the round eyes, but I always preferred the light pattern and brightness of the rectangles.
My 6054 conversion is done, except for minor adjustment of the light pattern. They work great!
I'll go ahead throw in few more pictures of the details...in case some other moneyless person wants to do this.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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Originally posted by getnpsi View Post5) glass does not turn yellow
I'm biased against technological progress in general.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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Here's the stock Festy parts I didn't use.
Here's the left side Aerostar set-up in the right side of the Festiva.
A close-up of the headlight adjuster. The small plastic thread insert can be found in the original Festy headlight set up. The square hole in the radiator support already exists, at least on my 1988 model L.
I used the tension springs from the Aerostar, there's an existing hole in the Festy sheet metal at the right location.
Here's the socket conversion. Grab these when you get the headlights.Last edited by BigElCat; 07-20-2008, 06:49 PM.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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I work in a metal fab shop, run a CNC plasma cutter. The prototype grill will be 16 guage flat, no openings. If I have cooling issues I'll get creative with the slots. That's my plan anyway.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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I would reconsider that. I would just "create some slots right away, as opposed to finishing the grille and then having to take it back off and fiddle with it again. You could do a unique opening and then tack on some good quality steel mesh on the back side, that way you will still avoid the cooling issues and you will have a sweet looking grille. Just my .02 though. Good luck!!90 Festiva with Brand new B3, 5spd
92 B6 Festiva, 5spd
94 Mustang DSS 331, Vortec S-Trim, 5 spd
94 Mustang GT, stock, automatic
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I hear what you're saying. My nose cap is two pieces, the base is just a 'broke' piece about 3/4" tall. It runs the width of the bumper. The block off flat piece attaches with about 3 sheetmetal screws. Easy removal.
Maybe it will be the winter 'bra'. Or maybe it will be year round. I have the grill opening blocked off on my Samurai year round, with no over-heat issues.
I'll show pics when I have the pieces done. My words are falling short.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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