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  • roll cage?

    well looking at getting a festiva and doing a racer/daily driver and want to put a roll cage in but i cant weld, but i can learn fast! i do have access to all types of welders (tig, mig, etc. i love my school) but i am wondering what to do about people being able to get in the backseat and welding all the way around the tubes. does anyone have a detailed instalation of a roll cage in a festiva?

    should i tie together the rear strut mounts with a support? where should i put the rear mounts on the strut mounts or behind the mounts?
    economy is your friend!

  • #2
    here is a good article. I found this article on this site! WOW!


    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708975

    http://p074.ezboard.com/ffordfestiva...picID=92.topic

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    • #3
      If you go to the track that cage has to be certified, if not they won't let you race. So pick up a copy of NHRA rule book, has info you need there.
      Being uni-body you need to weld it right to the chassis and you should have a six point etc..

      Thanks :wink:

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      • #4
        Re: roll cage?

        Originally posted by mike5721947
        well looking at getting a festiva and doing a racer/daily driver and want to put a roll cage in but i cant weld, but i can learn fast! i do have access to all types of welders (tig, mig, etc. i love my school) but i am wondering what to do about people being able to get in the backseat and welding all the way around the tubes. does anyone have a detailed instalation of a roll cage in a festiva?

        should i tie together the rear strut mounts with a support? where should i put the rear mounts on the strut mounts or behind the mounts?
        If you planning to use car for competition, then obtain the latest copy of the regulations from the same sanctioning body you plan to race in. You start there first.

        You can design cages to make for easier welding, like for a dual purpose street/race car, the desire to have closely fitting tubes to the inner body structure still makes it difficult. So, normally for those situations using a unibody roll cage, you can cut holes in the floorpan to drop the partially welded cage to allow access to all areas of the weld. Or you make access holes if the cage for some reason can't be dropped ( really not an attractive option for roof and main hoop though ).

        For full tube chassis cars, process is a tad different, I can elaborate if anyone wants.

        You mentioned you want a daily driver ( street ) and race car. Well, I think it's quite unwise not to consider safety of all occupants in a helmet-less environment first. You'll be spending more of your time there.

        To play safe, you'll have to be mindful of the cage design. Installing a roll cage optimized for racing in a street car usually robs Peter to pay Paul. What good will a cage do if your helmetless head gets bashed against the tube because some race car rulebook told you " add this tube " or racer Joe said this design here is more effective ? You'll find no set of race car rules considers street use.

        Simple rule for street car, keep the cage tubes as far away from heads as much as possible, as no one is wearing helmets. A 6-pt cage ( minimum ) with low rear braces ( tieing into the rear shock mounts ) , side impact door bars, and a low crossbar at the main hoop ( again, side impact protection ) is about the best compromise if these objectives are desired. It's not the best design structurally for racing, but why complain since you should try to combine improved bodyshell rigidity with the ability to carry people in the back seat safely.

        Do try to tie the all the suspension pickup points to the cage ( if permitted ).

        Good idea also to reinforce all suspension points with 1/8" flat stock, front stabilizer bar, control arm, front upper strut and rear shock mount area, etc. A must for high spring rates.
        Rich Norman
        5 Festivas:
        1992 L - Daily Driver
        1993 GL-Off-Road Buggy Subaru EJ20DET
        1988 L - Big Block Ford Pro-Street
        1992 L - Corvette LS7 drivetrain
        1991 L - Parts Car

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        • #5
          Rich - I'm looking to have a roll bar built for my car... Something that would fit behind the seats and incorperate a harness bar.

          My idea is for there to be really only 4 mounting points, those on the floor behind the seats and mount it near the strut towers and add a brace in with the bar. I've seen the design before. Mainly, I want to stiffen up the car with the removal of my roof, since I've added my ragtop.

          I don't want something that will hinder any real space back there. I've seen people race with a 4 point bar, but will it hurt to do a design like this or should I be looking for more? I don't want a car where I will need to wear a helmet for daily driving because of the bar I've installed.

          Thoughts?

          Simon
          Simon - pimptiva.com

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          • #6
            well i know that there is a universal racing harness bar that can be either welded or bolted in, not much for rigidity, but it'll give you mounting points for your race harness. I believe sparco manufactures it.
            Jesus is on my dashboard, But the Devil is under my hood
            1988 ford festiva...in limbo, apartments suck
            1995 Ford Aspire...in limbo, wow i need a garage
            2002 vw jetta wagon 2.0L, neuspeed p-flow 1994 Mercury cougar xr-7 v8, lowered, 18's

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            • #7
              They do and I've seen it. Someone reproduced it for a Ford Probe and there has been a lot of talk about the overall safety of it in a roll or crash.

              Why spend the money on that and then modify it to work when I can have a custom bar bent for just around the same price?

              Simon
              Simon - pimptiva.com

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              • #8
                I have to make one for the current project now, so ill post pics when i get to it.

                Thanks :wink:

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                • #9
                  ..

                  Just curious Simon, how much have you been quoted for a 4 pt hoop w/harness bar? I am looking into getting one built but am not sure of pricing and what I should look for... -Kyle
                  Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...

                  White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten

                  Proud member of Chicken Mechanix Racing

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Kyle - I haven't called the guy yet. I have his card laying here on my desk, but I've been slacking on it...

                    Simon
                    Simon - pimptiva.com

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                    • #11
                      ...

                      I've heard about 700 for a well built cage thats a 4pt w/door bars... I think that's a little much to spend on a Festiva... Let me know what the guy says to you. -Kyle
                      Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...

                      White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten

                      Proud member of Chicken Mechanix Racing

                      Comment


                      • #12


                        I bought this, it was around 300$ shipped. I used the door pieces as a rear strut brace and connected it into the roll cage. You can see pictures on my cardomain link in my sig. Page 6
                        Ian Carr
                        88' flat black festy, has an e-brake that works!
                        99' S70 T5M- faster DD
                        86' 951- almost ready for track season

                        My old b6t- wish i still had it
                        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2241793

                        Every car I have owned has had a turbo in it, until I bought this latest festiva.. I plan to fix that though.

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