The quest for power windows continues!

[Occhty]

Digging through what seemed like and endless pile of useless diagrams that I'll never use or need, I found this.
They look awfully close to something I saw in one of freshtiva's post here.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16514&highlight=POWer+windows

They look a lot like the overseas ones to me.*
So I ordered a set today from rockauto for $50 each.

What do you guys think, these things a twin or what?
Well either way, I have a set already in shipping.

*

[shampooking]

looks like it'll fit. but if it won't, a little persuasion might help

[Movin]

I've been wondering how you get all those cool
parts you have available in the Philippines
to fit!!

[bravekozak]

I have power windows.
They are great.
They are standard on European Prides.
You will need either door handles with switches, or console with switches + wiring harness.

[Occhty]

Okay, here's the update!

I now have power windows!

For those interested in doing this:
The ones I ordered from rock auto were for a 1997, Hyundai sonata, 2.0L L4 dohc.

It's not a direct bolt in. The tracks and shuttle are way wrong. But the motor and cables are a perfect match for the festy.
I swaped out the hyundai tracks and shuttle for the festy ones, and then it becomes a direct bolt in with no fab work.

Now the wiring and switches i used are complete custom work. I used separate switches mounted in the dash. I didn't use a master controller because you can reach both switches where they are.

I'm not going to put up a wiring diagram unless there's an interest. But keep in mind the wiring needed for powers windows varies, depending on the switches used.

Bonus!! find a 1992-1995 ford Taurus that has the auto down function, grab the module and add it to the install and have one touch auto windows.
(one module for every function, up, down driver, and up, down passenger would require 4 of these modules.) I have a wire diagram for that too. If needed.

I'm still looking for a direct bolt in power regulator in the yards. With a few leads, that may or may not work.

Total spent for this upgrade was $123.40 for both sides shipped. NEW!
Two green backlit switches $20.00
Wire 40 feet worth $15.00
Solder, srink tape, and connectors $20.00

Everything was brand new! I could have cut some cost using used stuff, but chose not to.

My local PnP wanted $50 for a used motor and regulator, so I went new.

[Occhty]

Oh, I also spent $20.00 on two thirty amp breakers.

Why two? I wired each one on its own circuit because there installed on my paper route car. Everything of mine gets prototyped on this car due to the beating it takes. Kind of a proving grounds for the rest.