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Painting the Festiva

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  • Painting the Festiva

    I will soon be doing a paint job, or at least part of it. So first I need to sand it and I have a few questions. [Note I have a few electric sanders and a few long boards and a few compressed air sanders/longboards]

    I need to know what number paper I need to sand my Festiva- for example I understand you need to use different grits for different prosseses in the sanding job.

    I also need to know what is the best type of sander (electric) to use - {amps, RPMs, ect} -
    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

    -Garrison Keillor

  • #2
    Electric sand it with a circle sander with 220-320 grit (or thereabouts) all over the body. Make sure you get it evenly sanded. Now look for low spots and dings. Try to hammer them out and then fill them with bondo. Sand all areas that have body filler until they are perfectly feather edged with the body. After that, electric sand the whole car with 550-650 grit to smooth it out even better. Do a hand sanding with 800 grit, then wipe it with a tack cloth. Make sure its all masked properly, and spray rattle can primer on all areas of bare metal. (LIGHT coats!) sand that lightly once it dries to rid it of any edges, and tack cloth the whole car again. Then load up the gun with whatever you chose to paint with and spray away. Light coats are key, and sanding between coats with 900-1000 grit is a good plan. Never spray steadily at one spot... Swirling in in a circle pattern helps prevent lines.

    Just that advice should render a respectable result.

    Edit- any sander will do, don't worry about that technical stuff. In fact, a 100% hand sanded paint job will almost always trump a power sanded one.
    Last edited by Basement_Modder; 06-07-2012, 09:34 PM.
    1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
    Scrapped

    1991 Blue L 5-speed
    daily driver, intermittent project

    1993 rustless wonder
    A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Basement_Modder View Post
      Electric sand it with a circle sander with 220-320 grit (or thereabouts) all over the body. Make sure you get it evenly sanded. Now look for low spots and dings. Try to hammer them out and then fill them with bondo. Sand all areas that have body filler until they are perfectly feather edged with the body. After that, electric sand the whole car with 550-650 grit to smooth it out even better. Do a hand sanding with 800 grit, then wipe it with a tack cloth. Make sure its all masked properly, and spray rattle can primer on all areas of bare metal. (LIGHT coats!) sand that lightly once it dries to rid it of any edges, and tack cloth the whole car again. Then load up the gun with whatever you chose to paint with and spray away. Light coats are key, and sanding between coats with 900-1000 grit is a good plan. Never spray steadily at one spot... Swirling in in a circle pattern helps prevent lines.

      Just that advice should render a respectable result.

      Edit- any sander will do, don't worry about that technical stuff. In fact, a 100% hand sanded paint job will almost always trump a power sanded one.
      OK Thanks
      Do you think you could compile a list for me that would be needed for the actual painting of the Festiva ( I know air compresser and hoses guns ect...).
      "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

      -Garrison Keillor

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Basement_Modder View Post
        Electric sand it with a circle sander with 220-320 grit (or thereabouts) all over the body. Make sure you get it evenly sanded. Now look for low spots and dings. Try to hammer them out and then fill them with bondo. Sand all areas that have body filler until they are perfectly feather edged with the body. After that, electric sand the whole car with 550-650 grit to smooth it out even better. Do a hand sanding with 800 grit, then wipe it with a tack cloth. Make sure its all masked properly, and spray rattle can primer on all areas of bare metal. (LIGHT coats!) sand that lightly once it dries to rid it of any edges, and tack cloth the whole car again. Then load up the gun with whatever you chose to paint with and spray away. Light coats are key, and sanding between coats with 900-1000 grit is a good plan. Never spray steadily at one spot... Swirling in in a circle pattern helps prevent lines.

        Just that advice should render a respectable result.

        Edit- any sander will do, don't worry about that technical stuff. In fact, a 100% hand sanded paint job will almost always trump a power sanded one.
        Good stuff. But let me add. A hand sanded job with blocks. If you use your fingers to hold paper you will get streaks. The pressure points of your fingers makes "grooves" in the paint.
        And don't sand between coats. Just follow the instructions of the manufacturer.
        Rodney

        1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rbrown View Post
          Good stuff. But let me add. A hand sanded job with blocks. If you use your fingers to hold paper you will get streaks. The pressure points of your fingers makes "grooves" in the paint.
          And don't sand between coats. Just follow the instructions of the manufacturer.
          Whats wrong with sanding between coats - it sounds like a logical thing to do, especially to make the paint stick better to the car.
          "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

          -Garrison Keillor

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by KJ4YXY View Post
            Whats wrong with sanding between coats - it sounds like a logical thing to do, especially to make the paint stick better to the car.
            It's is not necessary. I get the car smooth like outlined above using sandable primer, then apply a non sandable sealer. Scuff with a grey scotchbrite to remove dust nibs and re-tackcloth. Shoot basecoat color as instructed. Then clear. Waiting for clear to dry, sand and clear one last smooth coat.

            This will give you a finish envied by all friends.
            Rodney

            1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by rbrown View Post
              It's is not necessary. I get the car smooth like outlined above using sandable primer, then apply a non sandable sealer. Scuff with a grey scotchbrite to remove dust nibs and re-tackcloth. Shoot basecoat color as instructed. Then clear. Waiting for clear to dry, sand and clear one last smooth coat.

              This will give you a finish envied by all friends.
              Im thinking of a non stock colour like a dark green with a black stripe.
              If Im correct I first have to sand as noted by Basement_Modder. Then apply my primmer. sand (if using sandable primmer), and apply the actual paint. Then do as you just said and then apply clear coat, sand, and one last clear coat?
              "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

              -Garrison Keillor

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by KJ4YXY View Post
                Im thinking of a non stock colour like a dark green with a black stripe.
                If Im correct I first have to sand as noted by Basement_Modder. Then apply my primmer. sand (if using sandable primmer), and apply the actual paint. Then do as you just said and then apply clear coat, sand, and one last clear coat?
                Yes use a sandable primer to get this slick.

                A system will produce the best results. Mixing brands results in unknown things. Paint supply stores, real ones, love to talk product and will be happy to talk you through some things.

                You need to have a sealer before the paint goes on. This will seperate the primer work from the color. The solvents in color will lift the sandable primer and make it not smooth any longer. You will not be happy.

                You can skip the last sand and shoot and just put 3 coats of clear and wait to sand with 1500 and buff . This will produce a mirror like finish. Or not and let it go as a finished product. However I like the sand and shoot one last coat, without cutting it to get the most durable finish. Depends on your desired look.

                I am going to shoot mine satin aqua. I just wish my top wasn't so wavy ~~~.
                Rodney

                1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rbrown View Post
                  Yes use a sandable primer to get this slick.

                  A system will produce the best results. Mixing brands results in unknown things. Paint supply stores, real ones, love to talk product and will be happy to talk you through some things.

                  You need to have a sealer before the paint goes on. This will seperate the primer work from the color. The solvents in color will lift the sandable primer and make it not smooth any longer. You will not be happy.

                  You can skip the last sand and shoot and just put 3 coats of clear and wait to sand with 1500 and buff . This will produce a mirror like finish. Or not and let it go as a finished product. However I like the sand and shoot one last coat, without cutting it to get the most durable finish. Depends on your desired look.

                  I am going to shoot mine satin aqua. I just wish my top wasn't so wavy ~~~.
                  ok, I will take a look at that, I am not sure exactly what parts I will do. I know I will sand it, but painting I am not sure because as you may or may not know I have that huge dent in the side of my car and may have to have a pro fix it.
                  "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                  -Garrison Keillor

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    These would be the tools I would use for the job

                    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                    -Garrison Keillor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You need a DA (dual action) sander. Harbor freight sells them cheap. They are throw always usually only get a few cars out of them but saves the joints. the darker the color the harder to paint. This was my first whole car paint job. It wasn't perfect but it was good enough. Hand sanded 90% of it. The clear coat orange peeled like crazy this was after I wet sanded and buffed. Its hard to mess up if you take your time and read the directions. Watch some YouTube videos on how to spray what pressures for the gun. You need a air/water filter setup on the air hose. List could go on and on. Write down steps for sanding. Usually most of your final sanding goes down after you primer/sealer cause you want a completely smooth sticky surface. Prep is most of the work but if you prep correctly it will make the paint better and make your life easier down the road. Don't want anything to get into the wet paint period.
                      1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                      1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                      1996 Ford F-150

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Flyin4stroke View Post
                        You need a DA (dual action) sander. Harbor freight sells them cheap. They are throw always usually only get a few cars out of them but saves the joints. [ATTACH]7092[/ATTACH] the darker the color the harder to paint. This was my first whole car paint job. It wasn't perfect but it was good enough. Hand sanded 90% of it. The clear coat orange peeled like crazy this was after I wet sanded and buffed. Its hard to mess up if you take your time and read the directions. Watch some YouTube videos on how to spray what pressures for the gun. You need a air/water filter setup on the air hose. List could go on and on. Write down steps for sanding. Usually most of your final sanding goes down after you primer/sealer cause you want a completely smooth sticky surface. Prep is most of the work but if you prep correctly it will make the paint better and make your life easier down the road. Don't want anything to get into the wet paint period.
                        Why would I not be able to use my sanders?
                        sanding is my first step. I know that.
                        "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                        -Garrison Keillor

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          those look to be grinders to me i would think to many prms... i would go to harbor freight pick up a da sander for i think 40 bucks or get a palm orbital sander they worked good the sanders you have may cause more damage then good they would sling the sand paper off i am in process of sanding my car down after the sandable primer step i am using a 8" (2" wide) drywall sander with pre cut wet and dry 600 grit i bought it for aroud 10 bucks yard sale it does great on all the large places and orbital sander for small places they do a number
                          89 festiva all of a mighty 1.3 Tha Black Bullet and good ole casper got casper when I was 15 and loved em ever since

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by newcomb View Post
                            those look to be grinders to me i would think to many prms... i would go to harbor freight pick up a da sander for i think 40 bucks or get a palm orbital sander they worked good the sanders you have may cause more damage then good they would sling the sand paper off i am in process of sanding my car down after the sandable primer step i am using a 8" (2" wide) drywall sander with pre cut wet and dry 600 grit i bought it for aroud 10 bucks yard sale it does great on all the large places and orbital sander for small places they do a number
                            OK I will take a look into them.
                            I know that the ones i have photos of are "sanders/grinders"
                            "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                            -Garrison Keillor

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by KJ4YXY View Post
                              OK I will take a look into them.
                              I know that the ones i have photos of are "sanders/grinders"
                              Yes those are bit too aggressive.
                              Rodney

                              1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

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