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Painting the Festiva

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  • #16
    Originally posted by rbrown View Post
    Yes those are bit too aggressive.
    OK I will take a look into the "lighter duty" ones at harbor frieght.
    And then buy some paper while I'm there and I a ready to start sanding( depending on what amount of body work I do.)
    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

    -Garrison Keillor

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    • #17
      follow any of forum members,and you ll be fine. as to what brand of paint u,use,u,can use spray cans, rustoleum, single stage & clear coat. just prep it right,and wipe body down with paint thinner,before u, paint. i use a wagner electric sprayer. im a retired painter. painting a car is a piece of cake. and its fun. make sure u,wear a face mask. i paint cars outside, dont follow any bodys rules. it allways turns out fine.

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      • #18
        Is there a specific non sandable sealer to use? I don't even know where to begin looking for that.. I didn't primer my entire car, and have no desire to if I don't have to, it's sanded down good with no bare metal showing.
        2008 Kia Rio- new beater
        1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
        1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
        1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
        1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
        1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
        1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
        1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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        • #19
          I may get attacked for this, but for around $85, you can get an electric paint sprayer gun with all the adjustments of an air model. I do agree that compressed air jobs are the best, but for those on a budget, electric may be the way to go. In fact, I'd bet that you could achieve 95% of the finish quality of air with one of these guns. They do, after all, use air; its just sprayed through a filter by a turbine rather than from a tank.
          1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
          Scrapped

          1991 Blue L 5-speed
          daily driver, intermittent project

          1993 rustless wonder
          A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Basement_Modder View Post
            I may get attacked for this, but for around $85, you can get an electric paint sprayer gun with all the adjustments of an air model. I do agree that compressed air jobs are the best, but for those on a budget, electric may be the way to go. In fact, I'd bet that you could achieve 95% of the finish quality of air with one of these guns. They do, after all, use air; its just sprayed through a filter by a turbine rather than from a tank.
            This question goes to you and also to windy1. Would I have to use any specific paint because I am using electric?
            Also what brand would be the best.

            I will probably do the electric painting. That does sound good and it doesn't use to be perfect, the body isn't perfect.
            "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

            -Garrison Keillor

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            • #21
              I have one more question.
              As some of you might know of brittstiva (I think that is how it's spelled), I want to paint the Czech flag on the Hood of my car and have the rest of the car in a forest green. Well the question is will I need different spray guns for the different colour paint and I guess that would also apply to the sealer and the other coats I will do.
              "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

              -Garrison Keillor

              Comment


              • #22
                Nope just when your done painting a specific color or primer clean guna good amd start another color
                89 festiva all of a mighty 1.3 Tha Black Bullet and good ole casper got casper when I was 15 and loved em ever since

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                • #23
                  Don't use a power tool to sand a decent body. It will show in the new paint. Use 400 grit or a scowering pad to scuff old paint. I use Rustoleum mixed with mineral spirits and a touch-up gun. The ratio requires some trial and error. If the paint won't spray a healthy bead then it needs more thinning. Practice on some cardboard. I've also used a Wagner PP with decent results.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                    Don't use a power tool to sand a decent body. It will show in the new paint. Use 400 grit or a scowering pad to scuff old paint. I use Rustoleum mixed with mineral spirits and a touch-up gun. The ratio requires some trial and error. If the paint won't spray a healthy bead then it needs more thinning. Practice on some cardboard. I've also used a Wagner PP with decent results.
                    I still have one question.
                    Will I have to use specific paint due to the fact that I am using electric? - I am currently looking at http://www.paintforcars.com/.
                    Or is it all the same?
                    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                    -Garrison Keillor

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      ive used most any paint,with an electiic gun. it likes rustoleum best.make sure u,use enough thinner,and paint mixed well before u,spray. test spray some areas,if u want[not on car] ive never used sealers. spot prime any bondoed areas [if u havent done so] u could spray a coat of primer first,use spray cans,or 1 qt of primer. if u ve sanded car well,u wont need any primer. its overrated,as well as sealers. if u spray rustoleum,wait 1 or 2 hrs,between coats. FOLLOW PAINT CAN DIRECTIONS u,ll be fine.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by windy1 View Post
                        ive used most any paint,with an electiic gun. it likes rustoleum best.make sure u,use enough thinner,and paint mixed well before u,spray. test spray some areas,if u want[not on car] ive never used sealers. spot prime any bondoed areas [if u havent done so] u could spray a coat of primer first,use spray cans,or 1 qt of primer. if u ve sanded car well,u wont need any primer. its overrated,as well as sealers. if u spray rustoleum,wait 1 or 2 hrs,between coats. FOLLOW PAINT CAN DIRECTIONS u,ll be fine.
                        http://rustoleum.com/cbgresourcecenter.asp?sn=pro - yet I dont see anything automotive.
                        "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                        -Garrison Keillor

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I've heard sealer is not needed too, but half the people I talk to say to use it, I don't know who has actually done a GOOD paint job and who hasn't of the people I hear from, aside from sonic, which looks like an awesome paint job in every pic.

                          You have to wait so long between colors and coats, but not too long before clear, and if your using different.colors on the same piece of metal you have to let it dry so the tape won't peel it off, honestly I'm ready to do a flat black roller job for all the trouble and confusion this is worth.
                          Last edited by zoom zoom; 06-09-2012, 12:14 PM.
                          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            u dont need sealer. the only time i prime a whole car,is when i put a light color over a dark. u do have to wait between coats,with rustoleum. if u want to do single stage,and clear,its faster,and awfull expensive. im a poor boy,and proud of the money ive saved,using rustoleum. my best jobs,were from spray cans,and brush and roller.u dont have to spend big bucks,to paint a car or truck. be patient,and dont get upset. [easier said than done] [it takes 22 cans of spray paint,for a festy]
                            Last edited by windy1; 06-09-2012, 12:43 PM. Reason: spell

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by windy1 View Post
                              u dont need sealer. the only time i prime a whole car,is when i put a light coler over a dark. u do have to wait between coats,with rustoleum. if u want to do single stage,and clear,its faster,and awfull expensive. im a poor boy,and proud of the money ive saved,using rustoleum. my best jobs,wer from spray cans,and brush and roller.u dont have to spend big bucks,to paint a car or truck. be patient,and dont get upset. [easier said than done]
                              Where did you get your rustoleum? DI'd you just buy any from the web or somewhere else?
                              "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                              -Garrison Keillor

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                i disagree. u dont need sealer,or primer,unless u want to.its a free country,and its your money.

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