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Painting the Festiva

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  • #31
    Originally posted by windy1 View Post
    i disagree. u dont need sealer,or primer,unless u want to.its a free country,and its your money.
    You still ain't answering my question.
    Where did you get your rustoleum and for what (in the web it asks what your using it for and it didn't have the options for automotive. )
    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

    -Garrison Keillor

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    • #32
      any hardware store,[home depot] or off web. i use web 3 hrs a day

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      • #33
        Originally posted by windy1 View Post
        any hardware store,[home depot] or off web. i use web 3 hrs a day
        I don't want to use spray paint.
        "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

        -Garrison Keillor

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        • #34
          I get my Rustoleum at Walmart. Under $10 a qt., enough for entire car. Sail blue is my fav. Mineral spirits bought at Home Depot. You don't need primer unless covering body work or bare metal. Rustoleum also has primer (white). Sands smooth in 24 hrs. so only have to tape car once.

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          • #35

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            • #36
              Originally posted by georgeb View Post
              I get my Rustoleum at Walmart. Under $10 a qt., enough for entire car. Sail blue is my fav. Mineral spirits bought at Home Depot. You don't need primer unless covering body work or bare metal. Rustoleum also has primer (white). Sands smooth in 24 hrs. so only have to tape car once.
              OK … I'm not sure if you saw photos of my car but what I plan on doing is sanding and most likely applying bondo to my ding.
              Would I be able to do small areas of primer?
              Otherwise I will most likely hand sand the rest of the car.
              "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

              -Garrison Keillor

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              • #37
                Yes I see. That was done with hand sanding and paint and clear wile sanding between coats?
                With the stuff bought from the place you noted above?
                "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                -Garrison Keillor

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                • #38
                  carr hardware,in sheffield,mass try a paint store or the webb. try asking for automotive rustoleum,if no result,pick a color ,u want, then punch it in as i gallon forest green rustoleum . its easy. any rustoleum works. search the web. i used dupont industrial enamel,with activator last month.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by windy1 View Post
                    carr hardware,in sheffield,mass try a paint store or the webb. try asking for automotive rustoleum,if no result,pick a color ,u want, then punch it in as i gallon forest green rustoleum . its easy. any rustoleum works. search the web. i used dupont industrial enamel,with activator last month.
                    So just buy from your local home depot or Walmart?
                    Then just pour what I buy from them into my sprayer?
                    Also will they properly mix in the correct amount of thinner?
                    "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                    -Garrison Keillor

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                    • #40
                      i only spot prime over bondo. no need to prime whole car,unless u feel like it

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                      • #41
                        I'd use Interlux Brightside instead of Rustoleum, much more forgiving and easier to use. I rolled mine on, but I think if you used a Harbor Freight hvlp paint gun, the Interlux would look awesome. You only need to dilute Interlux by 10 or 15 percent with mineral spirits. Use real mineral spirits, not the low odor garbage.
                        Semper Fi til I die!

                        1993 Fescort GT 1.8 BP automatic Kia Rio front struts and cut springs Cut Front Festiva springs with Monroe Aspire struts in rear


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                        • #42
                          You have to mix thinner, if its called for by the paint manufacturer. Another thing to keep in mind, from what I've been told by 2 different paint shops, is that sometimes cheap spray guns need more or less thinner to spray the paint right than what is called for on the can.

                          Another headache which is why my car has been sanded and begging for paint for the last 8 months. I had clearcoat chipping off really bad all over, so I used 50 grit on the spots I had to fix/ get to bare metal, and 220 for the rest, which stripped all traces of clearcoat. Then I did the bondo and went over the car with a fine tooth comb and used a paint stripper pad on a drill for the little dents and dings on the hood from rocks and made sure there wasn't a single dip in the paint/ primer I sprayed after doing the whole car again with 400 grit sandpaper. I still want to go back over the fender where I had to reshape the curves and feather those edges with 6-800, and resand the majority just to double check last years work. My engine is ready this week, I need to paint now or scrap it all.
                          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                          • #43
                            u need to thin whatever paint u, spray with either acetone,naptha or paint thinner. read label mixing instructions on can 3 qts ought to be enough for a festy,.save other qt,for doors. u need at least 8 -1 6 ounces of thinner per gallon . use paper strainers,when u, pour paint into gun. and yes,u can get rustoleum any hardware/walmart /paint store.if noone has it,order on line from e-bay. remember,read can label,for ammount of thinner to use per gallon. i think i used 8 ounces of acetone per gallon,or naptha. you ll be nervous and unsure,the first time u spray,thats normal. sand with 220,then 400 . prime only bondo areas[spray can] wipe car with thinner,before u paint,and keep hands off areas to be sprayed,[body oil] keep gun 12 in. from body . 2 lite coats,2 hrs apart.
                            each time u,make a pass with gun,overlap 50%. try a test area first if u wish [i use old plywood] leave tape on till dry it cant get any simpler. [unless u use spray cans]

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                            • #44
                              thats why i dont use a single stage,and clear coat.it always peels later. alkyd enamel has no problems,if u,know how to spray,without runs.

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                              • #45
                                OK … went harbor freight and got most of the equipment needed. Just need to get the paint and and the sprayer.

                                Pictures to come.

                                Now where would I go for clear coat?
                                "Today, no American family can be secure against the danger that one of its children may decide to become an artist"

                                -Garrison Keillor

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