Painting the Festiva

[KJ4YXY]

KJ4yxy, i just noticed your front seats.....i'd pay top dollar for them if they're TAN......that's if you want to sell them.

We need to get you OVERHAULED bud!

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s384/KJ4YXY/Ford%20Festiva/IMG_0462.jpg

[windy1]

after seeing your sanded car,u took a lot off,with the 60grit u ought to go ahead and prime wole car,or make certain, u,spot prime all areas where metal,and bondo shows.

[georgeb]

You need to repair that mangled door jam before you worry about painting. Hopefully the car is not sitting outside with bare metal exposed.

[KJ4YXY]

You need to repair that mangled door jam before you worry about painting. Hopefully the car is not sitting outside with bare metal exposed.

eehhhh...

[windy1]

you and i are going to have a serious disagreement one day. noone knows it all. i was a painter in government for 30 yrs,painted every thing from runways,to mercedes cars. i dont work for anyone but myself, ive painted lots of cars. different ways. i do what works. no frills. no xtras .get it? chill out kid.

[KJ4YXY]

you and i are going to have a serious disagreement one day. noone knows it all. i was a painter in government for 30 yrs,painted every thing from runways,to mercedes cars. i dont work for anyone but myself, ive painted lots of cars. different ways. i do what works. no frills. no xtras .get it? chill out kid.

were you refrencing me?

[windy1]

i suspect few , on this forum know much at all. sound very juvenile, think they know it all WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND . THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT????

[Damkid]

I'm guessing you're referring to me even though it's been several posts since mine and you never quoted me, hence why I'm assuming

you and i are going to have a serious disagreement one day.

You're probably right, but I won't lose any sleep over it

noone knows it all. i was a painter in government for 30 yrs,painted every thing from runways,to mercedes cars. i dont work for anyone but myself, ive painted lots of cars. different ways. i do what works. no frills. no xtras .get it? chill out kid.

see this is why I simply asked you if you had any experience/credibility, I actually wasn't trying to be rude with my comments either, but if you took it that way, oh well

In my opinion when I hear someone recommending rustoleum paint for the exterior of a car, they may as well suggest using a paint roller as well

So as I said before, I have no reason to think you give good advice, because I have yet to see you give good advice...... other then buy brand new parts before diagnosing of course

This is just my point of view, not intended to be rude, just straight to the point, no frills, no xtras, get it?

[blkfordsedan]

KJ4YXY,

Don't get discouraged or too worried about it. You'll do just fine. Assuming this is your first attempt at paint, don't feel like it has to be perfect. The main thing is that you're doing it yourself and gaining experience. I've seen $2500 pro paint jobs that looked like dog poo, and Dupli-color spray can paint jobs that looked factory. Do the best you can with what you got and be proud of it.

[KJ4YXY]

KJ4YXY,

Don't get discouraged or too worried about it. You'll do just fine. Assuming this is your first attempt at paint, don't feel like it has to be perfect. The main thing is that you're doing it yourself and gaining experience. I've seen $2500 pro paint jobs that looked like dog poo, and Dupli-color spray can paint jobs that looked factory. Do the best you can with what you got and be proud of it.

That sounds like the best advice ever!

[lessersivad]

I still have one question.
Will I have to use specific paint due to the fact that I am using electric? - I am currently looking at http://www.paintforcars.com/.
Or is it all the same?

WARNING!! The following is rather lengthy and may cause drowsiness.

This is my 2¢.

I have been painting off and on for the past 30+ years. Pretty much anything from model cars to semi trucks, so take it for what it's worth.

Depending on what paint you decide to go with from the above mentioned website you could get by fairly low dollar. IF you went with the acrylic enamel.

After seeing the pics of your car, and I don't want to sound like a smart aleck or know-it-all, but unfortunately it appears as though the previous paint job was a basic oil or alklyd enamel paint.

IF that's the case then you have to first figure out what paint you're going to use, THEN prep accordingly.

If you have your heart set on the metallic blue that you posted then you are more than likely going to have to use regular automotive paint, not rustoleum.

(Though I have personally thought of experimenting with aluminum rustoleum tinted with a color to maybe achieve a metallic "$30 paintjob" by spraying, not rolling.)

If you could live with a solid, non-metallic color then you COULD use rustoleum and not have near the prep headaches you will face if prepping for automotive paint.

I'm guessing that someone will disagree with me, and that's fine.

The rustoleum primer and paint from a quart or gallon are going to be oil/ alklyd based enamel. This type of paint isn't NEAR as aggressive chemical wise as automotive paint. Automotive paint has a lot of "bite" in the thinners, activators, reducers, etc. and unless you sand the car down to AT LEAST the stock paint, IMHO, you will experience the wonderful world of "WHAT THE HECK, THE PAINT/PRIMER/SEALER IS LIFTING LIKE I SHOT IT WITH PAINT REMOVER!!!!"

This is always a fun journey and is usually followed by language that would make a sailor blush. Followed by sanding it down to the stock paint and starting over.

The rustoleum type paint will pretty much lay on the surface it's applied to with no lifting. At least in my experience.

It will stick to a properly sanded surface so don't think anything above 40 MPH is going to cause sheets of paint to fly off the car.

For the sprayer you are planning to use (of which I have absolutely no experience what so ever) I would recommend the rustoleum primer and paint.

No, it's not going to last, shine-wise, as long as a base coat/clear coat job.

No, it probably won't win any "Best of Paint" awards at any car shows.

No, it's not going to take near as much sanding or dollars to complete.

Yes, it's going to be cheaper.

Yes, it's easier to apply over the given surface of the car as it sits.

So, unless you plan on making the Festy absolutely flawless and hit the show car circuit, go with the rustoleum, primer the whole car, wait a few days, wet sand with 400-600 grit paper (mix some Dawn dish soap in the water so the sandpaper don't plug as bad, if at all. It also helps to degrease the surface before the paint).

Paint. Your first coat should be on the light side. It's what I refer to as a "tack coat". It gives the next coats something better to stick to.

Follow the tack coat with medium coats until the desired results are achieved.

Don't be surprised or get ticked off if you get runs. I can pretty much guanantee you will. with a solid color, wait for the paint to dry, sand out the run, respray the panel (fender, door, etc.) after masking the rest of the vehicle. Oil based enamel stays wet a LONG time so it'll float thru the air till it lands on an unprotected surface, THEN dries.

Painting is NOT performing surgery. If it goes wrong, nobody's going to die.

Again just my 2¢.

Hope this helps.

BTW, oil base and alklyd enamel are the same thing. Just different names.

[windy1]

I'm guessing you're referring to me even though it's been several posts since mine and you never quoted me, hence why I'm assuming



You're probably right, but I won't lose any sleep over it



see this is why I simply asked you if you had any experience/credibility, I actually wasn't trying to be rude with my comments either, but if you took it that way, oh well

In my opinion when I hear someone recommending rustoleum paint for the exterior of a car, they may as well suggest using a paint roller as well

So as I said before, I have no reason to think you give good advice, because I have yet to see you give good advice...... other then buy brand new parts before diagnosing of course

This is just my point of view, not intended to be rude, just straight to the point, no frills, no xtras, get it?

everyone is different. i do things my way,what works for me. certainly not for u. u seem very accurate sometimes,but in a box of rules. im the opposite.i solve problems creatively,not by any book. id appreciate it,if u,d knock off the criticism,if u,dont have any thing nice to say,say nothing. u have no common decency it seems. time u,found some. if u,re a nice man,start showing it.

[windy1]

WARNING!! The following is rather lengthy and may cause drowsiness.

This is my 2¢.

I have been painting off and on for the past 30+ years. Pretty much anything from model cars to semi trucks, so take it for what it's worth.

Depending on what paint you decide to go with from the above mentioned website you could get by fairly low dollar. IF you went with the acrylic enamel.

After seeing the pics of your car, and I don't want to sound like a smart aleck or know-it-all, but unfortunately it appears as though the previous paint job was a basic oil or alklyd enamel paint.

IF that's the case then you have to first figure out what paint you're going to use, THEN prep accordingly.

If you have your heart set on the metallic blue that you posted then you are more than likely going to have to use regular automotive paint, not rustoleum.

(Though I have personally thought of experimenting with aluminum rustoleum tinted with a color to maybe achieve a metallic "$30 paintjob" by spraying, not rolling.)

If you could live with a solid, non-metallic color then you COULD use rustoleum and not have near the prep headaches you will face if prepping for automotive paint.

I'm guessing that someone will disagree with me, and that's fine.

The rustoleum primer and paint from a quart or gallon are going to be oil/ alklyd based enamel. This type of paint isn't NEAR as aggressive chemical wise as automotive paint. Automotive paint has a lot of "bite" in the thinners, activators, reducers, etc. and unless you sand the car down to AT LEAST the stock paint, IMHO, you will experience the wonderful world of "WHAT THE HECK, THE PAINT/PRIMER/SEALER IS LIFTING LIKE I SHOT IT WITH PAINT REMOVER!!!!"

This is always a fun journey and is usually followed by language that would make a sailor blush. Followed by sanding it down to the stock paint and starting over.

The rustoleum type paint will pretty much lay on the surface it's applied to with no lifting. At least in my experience.

It will stick to a properly sanded surface so don't think anything above 40 MPH is going to cause sheets of paint to fly off the car.

For the sprayer you are planning to use (of which I have absolutely no experience what so ever) I would recommend the rustoleum primer and paint.

No, it's not going to last, shine-wise, as long as a base coat/clear coat job.

No, it probably won't win any "Best of Paint" awards at any car shows.

No, it's not going to take near as much sanding or dollars to complete.

Yes, it's going to be cheaper.

Yes, it's easier to apply over the given surface of the car as it sits.

So, unless you plan on making the Festy absolutely flawless and hit the show car circuit, go with the rustoleum, primer the whole car, wait a few days, wet sand with 400-600 grit paper (mix some Dawn dish soap in the water so the sandpaper don't plug as bad, if at all. It also helps to degrease the surface before the paint).

Paint. Your first coat should be on the light side. It's what I refer to as a "tack coat". It gives the next coats something better to stick to.

Follow the tack coat with medium coats until the desired results are achieved.

Don't be surprised or get ticked off if you get runs. I can pretty much guanantee you will. with a solid color, wait for the paint to dry, sand out the run, respray the panel (fender, door, etc.) after masking the rest of the vehicle. Oil based enamel stays wet a LONG time so it'll float thru the air till it lands on an unprotected surface, THEN dries.

Painting is NOT performing surgery. If it goes wrong, nobody's going to die.

Again just my 2¢.

Hope this helps.

BTW, oil base and alklyd enamel are the same thing. Just different names.

IM AN OLD TIMRE AND IM IMPRESSED AT YOUR KNOW HOW

[KJ4YXY]

WARNING!! The following is rather lengthy and may cause drowsiness.

This is my 2¢.

I have been painting off and on for the past 30+ years. Pretty much anything from model cars to semi trucks, so take it for what it's worth.

Depending on what paint you decide to go with from the above mentioned website you could get by fairly low dollar. IF you went with the acrylic enamel.

After seeing the pics of your car, and I don't want to sound like a smart aleck or know-it-all, but unfortunately it appears as though the previous paint job was a basic oil or alklyd enamel paint.

IF that's the case then you have to first figure out what paint you're going to use, THEN prep accordingly.

If you have your heart set on the metallic blue that you posted then you are more than likely going to have to use regular automotive paint, not rustoleum.

(Though I have personally thought of experimenting with aluminum rustoleum tinted with a color to maybe achieve a metallic "$30 paintjob" by spraying, not rolling.)

If you could live with a solid, non-metallic color then you COULD use rustoleum and not have near the prep headaches you will face if prepping for automotive paint.

I'm guessing that someone will disagree with me, and that's fine.

The rustoleum primer and paint from a quart or gallon are going to be oil/ alklyd based enamel. This type of paint isn't NEAR as aggressive chemical wise as automotive paint. Automotive paint has a lot of "bite" in the thinners, activators, reducers, etc. and unless you sand the car down to AT LEAST the stock paint, IMHO, you will experience the wonderful world of "WHAT THE HECK, THE PAINT/PRIMER/SEALER IS LIFTING LIKE I SHOT IT WITH PAINT REMOVER!!!!"

This is always a fun journey and is usually followed by language that would make a sailor blush. Followed by sanding it down to the stock paint and starting over.

The rustoleum type paint will pretty much lay on the surface it's applied to with no lifting. At least in my experience.

It will stick to a properly sanded surface so don't think anything above 40 MPH is going to cause sheets of paint to fly off the car.

For the sprayer you are planning to use (of which I have absolutely no experience what so ever) I would recommend the rustoleum primer and paint.

No, it's not going to last, shine-wise, as long as a base coat/clear coat job.

No, it probably won't win any "Best of Paint" awards at any car shows.

No, it's not going to take near as much sanding or dollars to complete.

Yes, it's going to be cheaper.

Yes, it's easier to apply over the given surface of the car as it sits.

So, unless you plan on making the Festy absolutely flawless and hit the show car circuit, go with the rustoleum, primer the whole car, wait a few days, wet sand with 400-600 grit paper (mix some Dawn dish soap in the water so the sandpaper don't plug as bad, if at all. It also helps to degrease the surface before the paint).

Paint. Your first coat should be on the light side. It's what I refer to as a "tack coat". It gives the next coats something better to stick to.

Follow the tack coat with medium coats until the desired results are achieved.

Don't be surprised or get ticked off if you get runs. I can pretty much guanantee you will. with a solid color, wait for the paint to dry, sand out the run, respray the panel (fender, door, etc.) after masking the rest of the vehicle. Oil based enamel stays wet a LONG time so it'll float thru the air till it lands on an unprotected surface, THEN dries.

Painting is NOT performing surgery. If it goes wrong, nobody's going to die.

Again just my 2¢.

Hope this helps.

BTW, oil base and alklyd enamel are the same thing. Just different names.

backstory … it was a silver car all original. It was showing signs of rusting so I painted it with spray paint 2 years ago. Now it's time for a slightly better job because it is going on the road. Except Hood and other front parts because it was wrecked.

[lessersivad]

backstory … it was a silver car all original. It was showing signs of rusting so I painted it with spray paint 2 years ago. Now it's time for a slightly better job because it is going on the road. Except Hood and other front parts because it was wrecked.

Well, IMHO, go the "rustoleum route" as was stated in my previous novel.

Also, blkfordsedan gave good advice. It's yours. Do it and be thankful that you can and will do the work yourself. If for no more reason than to use it as a learning experience.

Oh, I just had a thought. I believe you stated you would like to paint a flag on the hood. This may be a good time to get another hood to practice on. Then do the whole car. once you get the car done, use your "practice hood" to put the flag on.

Drive the car without the flag on the hood until you get it painted on the practice hood. Swap out the hoods so one day you don't have the flag, BAM! The next day you do.

Just a thought I think would be kinda cool.

A simple suggestion when painting the flag.

Paint the white 1st. The blue 2nd, and red 3rd.

Reasoning;
White will cover easier than the other colors.
Blue next for covering the white.
Red last, just in case you slightly mess up you won't be trying to paint over the red.

Red, in my experience with enamel, is a "bleeder".

In other words red likes to come thru or bleed thru other colors. So if you were to try to paint the white over the red it would likely turn pink or a very light red where ever the red was.

Hope this makes sense. If not, ask and I will try to clarify.