Painting the Festiva

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And how do you feel about sealer on top of old paint before new paint?

Mine is in about the same shape his car is, minus the hood and bumpers, and the fenders soon.

I bought a cheap air sprayer advertised as high volume low pressure from HF awhile ago I might end up using if I don't rattle can it first.

[KJ4YXY]

Well, IMHO, go the "rustoleum route" as was stated in my previous novel.

Also, blkfordsedan gave good advice. It's yours. Do it and be thankful that you can and will do the work yourself. If for no more reason than to use it as a learning experience.

Oh, I just had a thought. I believe you stated you would like to paint a flag on the hood. This may be a good time to get another hood to practice on. Then do the whole car. once you get the car done, use your "practice hood" to put the flag on.

Drive the car without the flag on the hood until you get it painted on the practice hood. Swap out the hoods so one day you don't have the flag, BAM! The next day you do.

Just a thought I think would be kinda cool.

First of all what is IMHO?

That's all in all good, something I should and could do except my step dad doesn't like "junk" laying around at our farm and also I'm on a tight budget.

[FestYboy]

^ In My Humble Opinion

[lessersivad]

^

And how do you feel about sealer on top of old paint before new paint?

Mine is in about the same shape his car is, minus the hood and bumpers, and the fenders soon.

I bought a cheap air sprayer advertised as high volume low pressure from HF awhile ago I might end up using if I don't rattle can it first.

If you're asking me, as long as the old paint is NOT oil/alklyd enamel and the old paint is in decent shape (no flaking, peeling, delamination, etc.) you should be fine.

If you experience lifting along the edges or anywhere else you can "baby" the sealer.

In other words, LIGHTLY haze the sealer on for a few coats. Don't hurry to keep it wet. Just lightly haze it until coverage is achieved then a couple of medium coats. Allowing the proper dry time between coats per the manufacturers recommendations.

This is after you sand off the lifted area IF lifting happens.

Hope this helps.

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it was the stock paint job, the clearcoat was chipping off all over it, so I hit it with 60, then (after many other things) 400 grit. I'm not sure what type of system or paint the factory used. I had to bondo a few areas, and primered any bare metal I had to uncover. Mostly it's just a mix of factory paint, no clearcoat whatsoever, and primer in some spots where I dug too deep with the sandpaper. Honestly I'm not sure what you mean by "lifting."

I'm just trying to get it done, as simply and easily as I can, and I don't mind paying another couple hundred dollars if that's what it takes to do a job that will turn out decent (nothing too fancy) and last awhile.. the whole exterior shell, jams, and pieces are getting painted and it will be put back together. I'm sort of meticulous with things I do, so every last effort will be expended up until the job is done and turns out looking half-a$$ed anyway, but I can't really control that, I just do what I can.

Should I do a BC/CC, using the stock paint as a surface for the BC, or go with the Acryllic Enamel, and after the first 2 coats thin it down more and more with each coat until it has a really glossy shine to it? A friend told me he did that and the paint looked good even 10 years later.

[lessersivad]

it was the stock paint job, the clearcoat was chipping off all over it, so I hit it with 60, then (after many other things) 400 grit. I'm not sure what type of system or paint the factory used. I had to bondo a few areas, and primered any bare metal I had to uncover. Mostly it's just a mix of factory paint, no clearcoat whatsoever, and primer in some spots where I dug too deep with the sandpaper. Honestly I'm not sure what you mean by "lifting."

I'm just trying to get it done, as simply and easily as I can, and I don't mind paying another couple hundred dollars if that's what it takes to do a job that will turn out decent (nothing too fancy) and last awhile.. the whole exterior shell, jams, and pieces are getting painted and it will be put back together.

Do you know what kind of primer you used?

If it was spray can laquer then I would definately check the manufactures recommendations.

As for the stock paint, it's been thru enough years, curing time, and heat/cool cycles that it should be fine to apply sealer.

"Lifting" is what happens when the new primer/sealer/paint/clearcoat "attacks" the surface that it is being applied to.

Sometimes it will show up as a slight wrinkle along an edge that was feather sanded, exposing underlying primers/sealers.

Other times it may appear as if you put plastic food wrap on the surface while it was still wet then lifted it off.

I had the "saran wrap" happen on a '66 Nova I agreed to paint for a friend. He did all the body work and had it in primer. He just wanted me to "squirt" it.

Everything was going good until the clearcoat. The hood started looking weird then like crap.

After it was all said and done turned out he had stripped the entire car, EXCEPT the hood. Hence the new paint "attacked" or soaked down thru the primer and lifted the underlying paint.

Never did repaint the hood the same color for the simple fact that it was a true candy apple red and would have been impossible (at least for me) to match the rest of the car.

Sorry for the long response....again.

[lessersivad]

Should I do a BC/CC, using the stock paint as a surface for the BC, or go with the Acryllic Enamel, and after the first 2 coats thin it down more and more with each coat until it has a really glossy shine to it? A friend told me he did that and the paint looked good even 10 years later.

Funny you mention thinning acrylic enamel like that. Another friend of mine showed me that trick on metallics. I always wondered how he got his paint jobs to look like hand rubbed laquer.

Thins the paint way more than usual, crank up the pressure and "fog" the whole car with the mixture.

First time I saw him do that it looked like crap, and I told him so. It was so stinkin' dull looking I figured he screwed it up.

He just told me to wait. Meanwhile he proceeded to clean the spray gun and put it away. We walked back to the car and "TA DA", it was shining like a new penny. Looked that way for years till the car was totaled.

Fact it still looked good in the wrecking yard for a few more years till it got crushed.

Myself, I like acrylic enamel more than BC/CC. It may not shine quite as much but seems to hold up better.

Just my 2¢.

[FestYboy]

a friend of mine got a visit from Chip Foose a few weeks ago, he suggested nearly the same thing though the "fogging" lasts for up to 48 straight hours before a bake and then color sand (same can be done for BC/CC). Chip states that this method is used for getting the very DEEP looking paint.

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Well, thanks for the advice fellers, ill update after I'm done. Probably won't be until next week, at the earliest.

[KJ4YXY]

This is what I am planning on using. With the wagner spray gun.

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My buddy, used tha,t on his Jeep, the same stuff, it turned ,, out brown, but he was ,, using a dark primer, so maybe that's .,what did it? Looked good, just not orange.

[KJ4YXY]

My buddy, used tha,t on his Jeep, the same stuff, it turned ,, out brown, but he was ,, using a dark primer, so maybe that's .,what did it? Looked good, just not orange.

Ohhh. If it isnt fully orange then I am going with some rustoleum.

[KJ4YXY]

Do yall think it came out like this?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=244005&stc=1&d=1215704375

[Festiva_Fred]

My buddy, used tha,t on his Jeep, the same stuff, it turned ,, out brown, but he was ,, using a dark primer, so maybe that's .,what did it? Looked good, just not orange.

Use a light colored primer or sealer if you are doing a lighter color such as the orange you picked. Too dark of one will darken the color to an extent.

[lessersivad]

This is what I am planning on using. With the wagner spray gun.

I may get flamed for this but, I hope you kept your receipt.

THAT is acrylic lacquer.

Remember what I posted about paints that have "bite"?

Well, lacquer happens to be a paint that CANNOT be used over oil/alklyd enamel, like is on your car now.

Unless you can find a compatible sealer the likelyhood of lifting with that paint is pretty much guaranteed.

Take it back or go to a regular paint supply store and ask if they have a sealer that will go over oil based paint AND can be topcoated with lacquer.

Just my 2¢.