How Much Paint?

[mikemounlio]

I plan to use the dupli-color paint shop system. i have an 80 gallon 14cfm air compressor setup. I can use 12cfm full time all the time FOR SURE. So i should have no problem doing a paint job. I have done many other smalll paint projects (bikes, parts, plastic, wood, random stuff) never a full car.

How much paint shoul i get to do a full paint job of the festiva? Bumpers not included. My paint will come in quarts at 24$ each so i want to buy as few as i can. 24$ each includes primer, paint and clear.

Going for burnt orange. Open to ideas at this point.

[errjam]

white with martini sripes

[mikemounlio]

Ideas on how to paint or brand and such.

[william]

You may have to give your compresser a few breaks and a gallon did mine . And I had some left over. But all paint will cover different.

[mikemounlio]

i can heavy sand non stop all day. Its a 220v 80 gallon. I have never seen it drop below the 12 cfm mark (tools never lose effect. Air compressor wise im good. I dont see it being a problem. My problem is lack of exp using hvlp. I have played around but never really went at it.

Repainted my tube buggy last year. It turned out great with a Harbor Freight gun. Ill pick up a better gun for the car tho.

[mikemounlio]

My cfm is steady at 125psi as well. So at 40psi ill be more then ok. So im down to painting tips, guns, brands, and how to.

[bhearts]

Are you painting the jams?

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[william]

I can't really give any tips on affordable hvlps.
I spray a sata 5000 everyday for clear and sata 4000 wsb.
If the paint in mind is a matalic you will want the bast gun yiu can afford. And before you clear back the gun up and possibly even over reduce your paint and give a "Drop" coat this will lay the matalic out and reduce modelyness. That way it won't look splotche.
Also are you painting inside?

[ryanprins13]

The paint guns i used took around 17 cfm, so just watch it while you paint. You dont want to overheat the compressor either. You have a good air dryer? Thats very cheap for paint! Wow. Unfortunately i cant remember what the rule of thumb is for paint volume per panel. Google may help you there.


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[mikemounlio]

Are you painting the jams?

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The car is getting taken apart as much as i can. It will be painted inside and out.

[Eaglefreek]

I painted my 91 I use to have and used a 1/2 gallon. It was a quick cheap single stage job, so I didn't use sealer or clear. I did paint the bumpers, but not the jambs and under the hood. You don't want to have too little of paint, though. Running out of paint in the middle of the job would suck.

[Flyin4stroke]

If you buy a half of a gallon you have to reduce it 50% so you really have a gallon sprayed. With clear you just add activator.

[lessersivad]

I plan to use the dupli-color paint shop system. i have an 80 gallon 14cfm air compressor setup. I can use 12cfm full time all the time FOR SURE. So i should have no problem doing a paint job. I have done many other smalll paint projects (bikes, parts, plastic, wood, random stuff) never a full car.

How much paint shoul i get to do a full paint job of the festiva? Bumpers not included. My paint will come in quarts at 24$ each so i want to buy as few as i can. 24$ each includes primer, paint and clear.

Going for burnt orange. Open to ideas at this point.

As far as I know, the Dupli-Color 'Paint Shop' series is lacquer based. So there are a few things to keep in mind.

Lacquer thinner tends to have a bit of 'bite' to it. In other words it can soak down thru layers and cause wrinkling or lifting of the paint underneath.

Sooo, if the current paint is of unknown origin (i.e., has been painted in the past with whatever) then I would suggest getting a small 'buzz bomb' of lacquer touch up paint and trying it on a small spot to see if it does lift or wrinkle. If it don't then proceed with your plan.

Also lacquer WILL require wet sanding and buffing after all is said and done. 'Back in the day' you could add a retarder to slow the drying time helping it flow out a bit better, but buffing was still required to get the final shine, just not as much.

Good things about lacquer;

Easy to repair and touch up.

Hard to get a run compared to enamel. Not impossible, but you really have to lay the paint on thick to get a run or sag.

On single stage lacquer (no clear) a scratch can be blended in with a buffer if you're careful. (lacquer doesn't use a hardener so you start away from the scratch and 'move' the paint with the buffer over the scratch).

Easy equipment clean up and the paint can be left in the gun overnight as it won't harden like a paint using a hardener or activator.

Can be painted almost anywhere because it drys so fast. (As long as the temperature is reasonable)

Suggestion (my 2¢);

Being this is your 1st time painting a complete vehicle I would shy away from any color with metallic in it. The risk of 'tiger stripes' and mottling will be nil if you go with a solid color.

Another good thing about going with a solid color is IF you have an 'OOPS' you can simply address the area affected (runs for example) by simply letting the paint dry, sand out the run, blend some paint over the area, 'burn' in the edges of the blend with pure lacquer thinner (melting the dry over spray paint) and continue on with the paint job.

As for how much paint (primer, clear, etc.) there are a few variables.

How much body work needs to be done?

Are you planning to prime the whole car? (highly suggested)

How is the color coverage wise? (thin or poor hiding is going to require more coats)

I'm going to simply spitball a guess and say 1 gallon of each product providing the store where you're buying it will allow for returns on any unopened, clean (no over spray), resellable condition, product.

May want to ask BEFORE purchase about returns and length of time allowed for possible returns.

So (not including thinner, sandpaper, masking tape, wax and grease remover) you'd be in it for approx. $300 for a gallon each of primer, paint, and clear.

Hope this helps.

EDIT;
According to what I just found, the "Paint Shop"paint and clear is already thinned. Also the only clear I found is a 'matte' finish.

So with that info I would see about getting MAYBE 5 quarts each of paint and clear. Providing returns are allowed.

And I would THINK the 'matte' clear could still be buffed out.

[mikemounlio]

As far as I know, the Dupli-Color 'Paint Shop' series is lacquer based. So there are a few things to keep in mind.

Lacquer thinner tends to have a bit of 'bite' to it. In other words it can soak down thru layers and cause wrinkling or lifting of the paint underneath.

Sooo, if the current paint is of unknown origin (i.e., has been painted in the past with whatever) then I would suggest getting a small 'buzz bomb' of lacquer touch up paint and trying it on a small spot to see if it does lift or wrinkle. If it don't then proceed with your plan.

Also lacquer WILL require wet sanding and buffing after all is said and done. 'Back in the day' you could add a retarder to slow the drying time helping it flow out a bit better, but buffing was still required to get the final shine, just not as much.

Good things about lacquer;

Easy to repair and touch up.

Hard to get a run compared to enamel. Not impossible, but you really have to lay the paint on thick to get a run or sag.

On single stage lacquer (no clear) a scratch can be blended in with a buffer if you're careful. (lacquer doesn't use a hardener so you start away from the scratch and 'move' the paint with the buffer over the scratch).

Easy equipment clean up and the paint can be left in the gun overnight as it won't harden like a paint using a hardener or activator.

Can be painted almost anywhere because it drys so fast. (As long as the temperature is reasonable)

Suggestion (my 2¢);

Being this is your 1st time painting a complete vehicle I would shy away from any color with metallic in it. The risk of 'tiger stripes' and mottling will be nil if you go with a solid color.

Another good thing about going with a solid color is IF you have an 'OOPS' you can simply address the area affected (runs for example) by simply letting the paint dry, sand out the run, blend some paint over the area, 'burn' in the edges of the blend with pure lacquer thinner (melting the dry over spray paint) and continue on with the paint job.

As for how much paint (primer, clear, etc.) there are a few variables.

How much body work needs to be done?

Are you planning to prime the whole car? (highly suggested)

How is the color coverage wise? (thin or poor hiding is going to require more coats)

I'm going to simply spitball a guess and say 1 gallon of each product providing the store where you're buying it will allow for returns on any unopened, clean (no over spray), resellable condition, product.

May want to ask BEFORE purchase about returns and length of time allowed for possible returns.

So (not including thinner, sandpaper, masking tape, wax and grease remover) you'd be in it for approx. $300 for a gallon each of primer, paint, and clear.

Hope this helps.

EDIT;
According to what I just found, the "Paint Shop"paint and clear is already thinned. Also the only clear I found is a 'matte' finish.

So with that info I would see about getting MAYBE 5 quarts each of paint and clear. Providing returns are allowed.

And I would THINK the 'matte' clear could still be buffed out.

Great info.

I plan to do a few practice panels i have laying around 1st.

The body will need work (little dings and dents, but no rust).

I will prime everything that i paint.

I think im going with 1/2 gallon prime, 1.25 gallon of paint just in case (plus extra to practice), Im thinking a gallon of clear.

I plan to do plenty of clear and wet sand the tarr out of it and buff.

[william]

As long as you seal it before you paint or don't break through the primer in any spots you shouldn't have any lifting but a test panel would be a good idea. To get everything set.