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After turning the rear hatch frame work into a lightweight shell, it was time to figure out how to install it since all the hinges and locking mechanism had been removed.
My first plan was to use hood pins but after looking at them I decided that they would not work all that well. Besides, how often or how quickly did I need to get into the rear space?
So after a re-think I went with 1/2" x 1" stainless bolts and nuts.
I first made up two aluminum flanges that the bolts would pass thru/secure to and rivet them to the hatch frame. To hold the hatch frame in place went I was fitting it to see where holes had to be drilled, I made a small "U" shaped bracket and temporarily screwed it to the body work. With it installed, the hatch would stay up in position (mostly,,,), at least long enough for me to secure it in place with blue painters tape.
Once everything was re-aligned, I marked where the holes had to go on the roof of the car ad removed the hatch and drilled the holes. Then came the ugly part - having to cut open a "window" in the inside frame work for the rear hatch. With the window I saw that I could make up "L" shaped brackets and fit them in the space. Once they were fabricated out of 12-ga steel, I marked thru the 1/2" roof hole onto the L bracket where the holes had to be on it.
Holes drilled, in went the 1/2" bolt and they got tack welded. Then the rear hatch was put back on and taped in place and the L brackets fitted and fastened to the L bracket bolt. Holes were drilled in the L bracket so it could be riveted in place. Once that was done it was time to fit another L bracket down where the lock mechanism had been. After fitting to make sure the one leg of the L was in solid contact with the rear hatch, the spot where the 1/2" bolt had to go was marked and the L bracket drilled. The bolt was welded to the L bracket and the entire L bracket was welded onto the car.
The rear hatch was put back on and marked where the hole had to be drilled for the third bolt. This hole took the most amount of fiddling to get it to fit onto the bolt. Once done, I made a doubler plate out of aluminum and riveted it into place once the nut had been secured to hold the doubler where it need to be.
Long story short, the rear hatch fits well, the nut fasteners look OK, you can un-bolt the hatch in a couple of seconds, the hatch is 100% secure and it looks stock (from a distance!)
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Since RED is a non-streetable drag racer, no weather proofing gaskets were installed. If it rains, water will come in thru various gaps!
My first plan was to use hood pins but after looking at them I decided that they would not work all that well. Besides, how often or how quickly did I need to get into the rear space?
So after a re-think I went with 1/2" x 1" stainless bolts and nuts.
I first made up two aluminum flanges that the bolts would pass thru/secure to and rivet them to the hatch frame. To hold the hatch frame in place went I was fitting it to see where holes had to be drilled, I made a small "U" shaped bracket and temporarily screwed it to the body work. With it installed, the hatch would stay up in position (mostly,,,), at least long enough for me to secure it in place with blue painters tape.
Once everything was re-aligned, I marked where the holes had to go on the roof of the car ad removed the hatch and drilled the holes. Then came the ugly part - having to cut open a "window" in the inside frame work for the rear hatch. With the window I saw that I could make up "L" shaped brackets and fit them in the space. Once they were fabricated out of 12-ga steel, I marked thru the 1/2" roof hole onto the L bracket where the holes had to be on it.
Holes drilled, in went the 1/2" bolt and they got tack welded. Then the rear hatch was put back on and taped in place and the L brackets fitted and fastened to the L bracket bolt. Holes were drilled in the L bracket so it could be riveted in place. Once that was done it was time to fit another L bracket down where the lock mechanism had been. After fitting to make sure the one leg of the L was in solid contact with the rear hatch, the spot where the 1/2" bolt had to go was marked and the L bracket drilled. The bolt was welded to the L bracket and the entire L bracket was welded onto the car.
The rear hatch was put back on and marked where the hole had to be drilled for the third bolt. This hole took the most amount of fiddling to get it to fit onto the bolt. Once done, I made a doubler plate out of aluminum and riveted it into place once the nut had been secured to hold the doubler where it need to be.
Long story short, the rear hatch fits well, the nut fasteners look OK, you can un-bolt the hatch in a couple of seconds, the hatch is 100% secure and it looks stock (from a distance!)
-----------------------------------------------------
Since RED is a non-streetable drag racer, no weather proofing gaskets were installed. If it rains, water will come in thru various gaps!
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