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  • Power windows Mod

    IF YOUR REGULATORS DO NOT OPPERATE PROPERLY WITH THE CRANK DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MOD

    OK, now that that's out of the way lets get started. For this mod you're going to need a few tools and supplies.

    Tools I used:
    • angle grinder(optional)
    • drill and drill bits
    • ratcheting crimpers
    • side cuts and needle nose pliers
    • 10mm socket and retchet + 10mm wrench
    • pick( just something to poke things with)
    • something to sand/grind with. I used a flap disk with my drill, but sandpaper or a file would work fine


    Supplies Needed (what I used)
    • GM window motor from a early 2000s GM car (can't remember exactly which car but a lot of them use the same motor. I will update if I can remember, just look for one similar to the picture)
    • 3/16 steel braided cable from Tractor Supply
    • sleaving for said cable. I got this at a surplus store but it should be the same size as a pedal bike brake cable. 5ft per side, 10ft total
    • crimp on cable stops for the 3/16 cable
    • high quality grease
    • 12 or 14 awg wire (I chose 14)
    • electrical tape
    • 14awg crimp on spade terminals (male and female)


    I figure if your wanting to do this mod, you should know how to take off the door panel, so I won't be covering that in this write-up.

    The very first thing you need to do is mount the motor to make sure it clears the window. First, start by cutting out the triangle piece of sheet metal to help clear the motor and make it easier to position and run the wires. Then, place the window motor about where is is in the picture and hold it (between the window and door sheet metal) there by hand while you slowly roll the window up and down to find the sweet spot. This motor is big and there is not a lot of usable room in these doors. Once you find the sweet spot, mark the location and drill the holes for the motor and mount it and test if the window still clears. You may have to chop the excess off the two top bolts that holds the plastic cable regulator block to make more room.

    EDIT: After I fully assembled my doors, I realized that the bolts i used to affix the motor to the door protruded a bit and made a small but noticeable bump in the door panel. I would suggest either trimming the head down or getting a more low profile type of bolt.


    After you have the motor mounted and the window can roll up and down without contacting the motor, you can move onto the next step. Now it's time to remove the window regulator and motor to start modding. Once you have the window regulator removed, you can start breaking it down. It's very simple to disassemble, on the bottom of the regulator there is the plastic cable guide, just depress the pin in the photo and slide it to the side, and for the top plastic guide just depress the pin and slide it up.

    ....................................BOTTOM........ .................................................. ..........................TOP
    Now that those are off, remove the sled off the rail and pull the stock cables off of it. They can be tricky because of the goo that is put in at the factory. I just scooped it out with a screwdriver.
    Just push the cable to the center and from the opposite side. Use a pick or something to poke with and push the stock cables out. After you get it fully disassembled, it is time to clean everything. I just used a rag and some window cleaner to remove the smoo, mine came clean easily, your millage may vary.



    Ok now that everything is clean and nice to work with, we can get into the fun. Go ahead and slide the bottom plastic guide back into place. Now get your cable sleeving and cut two sections of equal length (I cut my 5ft section in half). Mine ended up 29 1/4'' long. Now, take the steel braided cable and run it through one of the sleeves and crimp on one of the cable stops. After its crimped, you are going to have to grind or sand it down to size. Try to get it to roughly the same size and shape as the stock cable ends. Now insert the newly made cable back into the sled on the side facing the bottom.
    Before you insert the sled back into the track with the newly made cable. run it through the bottom guide and back up because the cable has to go below the sled before it gets to the top guide (as seen in picture). Once you get the sled installed, reinstall the top guide, then run the cable through the top plastic guide and push the cable sleeve into the bottom hole on the guide (as seen in picture). After that bring the sled all the way up. Now take your motor apart to get the cable regulator off of it. Run the end of the cable through one of the blue cable holders that came on the windows motor and seat the cable sleeve into it. Now place the cable into the cable regulator and draw the slack out of the cable (making sure the sled remains at the top of the track) and mark where it lines up with the hole on the wheel inside the cable regulator. Now, crimp another cable stop on where you marked and grind it down like the you did to the other end of the cable.


    Last edited by w4rkry; 11-01-2017, 06:27 PM.
    88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
    89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
    93 gl FI (sold) automagical
    89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
    88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

  • #2
    It's time to do the other cable now. Start by running the remaining cable through the other cable sleeve you cut, then crimp on a cable stop and grind it down like previously. Go ahead and take the top cable guide off the regulator and slide the sled back off. Insert the newly made cable into the top cable spot on the sled and reassemble the regulator, making sure to route the bottom cable back under the sled where it belongs. Now route the cable through the top cable guide and insert the cable sleeve into the remaining top hole on the cable guide. On the other end of the cable sleeve, insert the other blue cable holder.

    This is where it gets a bit tricky. Use a screw driver or some needle nose pliers and wind the cable regulator so that the the sled goes down. Make sure to hold this taught. Now place the top cable sleeve into the cable regulator. Go ahead and mark the top cable where the hole I circled is (making sure to hold the bottom cable taught and take the slack out of the top cable) and crimp on a cable stop and grind down as done before. The hole you need to insert the top cable into is on the bottom of the cable regulator wheel so remove it. Before you install the cables fully into the cable regulator wheel, add the springs to the blue cable holders. Then insert the newly made cables into the wheel and wrap them around the wheel until they are about equal lengths, then insert the wheel back into the cable regulator block, starting with the blue cable holders, then sliding the cable wheel back until it pops back into the regulator block. When your finished it should look like this:


    After you complete the cable regulator portion, reinstall the motor to test your cables to make sure the lengths are correct. Use some power source (no more than 14v, DC only) to run the regulator up and down. If you get all the way up or down and one of the blue cable holders fall out of the regulator block, or are very close to falling out, then one of the cables are too long (more than likely the top one). Just disassemble the cable regulator from the window motor and snip off the crimp and crimp another one on slightly further back. However, if the regulator works flawlessly than good job, your one step closer to having power windows. Go ahead and grease up your window regulator and reinstall the fully completed regulator back into the door so we can start modifying/creating the door wire harness.

    The door harness is fairly simple. It's just two wires you have to run, however I ran four so that I could install door speakers. If your car has power mirrors like mine does then your harness will end up looking better but it'll work if you don't. To start off with (if you have power mirrors) you need to pull the existing harness out so you can modify it. after you have it out take off the tape from the harness in between the door and body dust boots, then push the two wires for the window motor through the dust boots. Make sure you leave a lot of slack on both side, its better to cut some extra wire off than have to add some, I had to add some to mine because I didn't measure my wire lengths right. After you have the wires ran, re-tape the harness and reinstall. If you don't have power mirrors then just take the plugs out from the door and body poke holes through them and run the wires, then tape them. Once you have the cables ran, you can route the wires in the door and crimp on some wire terminals to the motor & the 2 14 AWG wires, connect the terminals from the 14 AWG wires to the motor and tape the connection. Polarity does not matter right now, you can swap that at the window switch later.



    Now unfortunately this where I,m going to end this write up because for the life of me can't remember what window switch (I think ones from a hyundai) I used or how to wire it. If you use some some switches off ebay (Link for example) they should have a wiring diagram/ switch pinout with them. Most are very easy to wire usually just 4-5 wires (power ground and +- for the motor). I installed my window switches in my center console (stock location), you may have to get creative with switch location. I used a 3d printer to make a housing for them. If you want to get the legit power window switches and center consoles, the TheFestivaStore has some for sale (as of writing this post).
    Last edited by w4rkry; 11-01-2017, 06:49 PM.
    88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
    89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
    93 gl FI (sold) automagical
    89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
    88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

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    • #3
      Wowser! You sure did a lot of work on your install. I only did the Kia Pride option.

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