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Help ME! festiva body roll!

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  • Help ME! festiva body roll!

    I hate how freakin tall these things are. well i have several problems. I am running 13x5.5 wheels and can't hook up. wanted to go to 14x6 wheels but those won't fit well with the stock height of the car. these things have mad body roll, so to try and fix it , i am planning on getting kyb shocks and 35mm springs all around. also a strut brace. i'll probably have to roll my fenders to do all this. Not sure if this will solve my problems. Let me know what u think and if u have any experience with these issues. what u did to fix them.
    1989 B6T Festiva...... it is a constant work in progress.

  • #2
    Consider the Aspire brake and suspension upgrade. The rear axle has a stabilizer bar in it and with FMS springs or cut Aspire springs (what I used), you should get a firmer ride. Braking is similarly much improved.

    I also have 13 X 5.5" (38mm offset) wheels, but I also have close to stock ride height. If you used lowering springs, you might have to roll your fenders or use some spacers in the back.

    Karl
    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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    • #3
      Once I lowered my car, bodyroll became a minor event. Adding a rigid pipe to the rear axel is supposed to stop it in it's tracks.. I have the pipe ready, but havent installed it yet.

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      • #4
        cut the coils all around and make an adjustable strut bar and your ready to go
        i love toyota and vw

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        • #5
          wrong. cutting stock coils will most likely make body roll, and the ride in general, even worse. And a strut tower brace does nothing for body roll, it eliminates chassis flex which is an entirely different creature. The general rule to eliminate body roll is dictated by what kind of conditions the car will be driven in. If you live in an area with a lot of uneven pavement or potholes, you would want to keep the springs a little soft and go for heavier swaybars. If the situation is opposite, mostly flat well paved roads, upping the spring rate and having less sway bar is optimal.

          Personally, i like to mix a little of both, not too crazy on spring rate, but stiffer than stock, and slightly bigger swaybars. Remember that only stiffening the rear swaybar itself will promote more oversteer under hard cornering so you have to be aware of that and keep the rear from getting away from you.

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          • #6
            ^ unless you like to drift! Then add a 2x2 iron bar in the rear :lol:

            Thanks :wink:

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            • #7
              Originally posted by vw40life
              cut the coils all around and make an adjustable strut bar and your ready to go
              I never got the "adjustable" thing...

              Why does it have to be adjustable? To make a generic part fit your car or to apply preload to your chassis?

              -Chris-
              1988 Mazda 121DA canvas top
              -73hp B3 multiport EFI swap
              -KYB SS w/ Eibach -35mm / FMS HD rubber suspension parts

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              • #8
                the strut bar won't do much of anything.

                weld some bar into the rear axle beam to stiffen it up some and replace suspension bushings. Lowering/struts will help some too.
                Wil
                02' Sc00by WRX Sedan (current project)
                00' Celica GT Automatic 38mpg gas-sipper (sold)
                05' Scion xB box-on-wheels (sold)
                93' MX-3 Hybrid on LSD (sold )
                96' Slowtegé 42mpg Beast-mobile (engine exploded)
                93' B6-ZE 'tiva GL aka"Blue Bomber"(now owned by darpien)

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                • #9
                  I won't be making a strut tie bar for my festiva until I have time for my BP swap. I did make one for my aspire and it made a drastic improvement in handling and the car felt much more "solid". I made the swaybar end link bushings out of uhmw later on but at the time that was the only change I had made. There is no point making an adjustable bar when your custom making it for your car. If the strut studs are angled there will have to be some slotting to take it off and on. I can post a photo if your interested although it wouldn't be the same as a festy.
                  Too much analysis leads to project paralysis.

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