PEP BOYS: I need new front brakes!

[Safety Guy]

Oh, and I have a two gallon and a BIG AIR THIRTY-THREE GALLON air compressors.

I still need a larger, heated/air-conditioned and partially carpetted garage. With a soda fountain and coffee bar.

I'll get to work on that after the brake job!

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Just saw this:

Rockauto has the Raybestos M/C for $62 no core:

http://info.rockauto.com/Raybestos/Detail.html?MC39720-7.jpg

What do you think of this part?

Also, Raybestos makes rear wheel cylinders with "full manu warranty" for $20 each from Rockauto.

AZ has them (I don't know the brand) for $10 each.

Others run from $25 to $35 at Rockauto (Wagner, ACDelco and Motorcraft).

ACDelco and Motorcraft are side specific. The others ain't. What's up with this??

Any preferences? I'd like close to the best parts.

I once did rear wheel cylinders and had to mix and match parts to get them to fit. I don't think the Aspire bodies fit my brake backing plates, so I "retrofitted" the insides to the old cylinders, polishing with crocus cloth as necessary.

I'll probably start the job this Friday, so I could easily order from Rockauto instead. Ideas on this?

Karl

[Safety Guy]

I got my car in the garage Tuesday morning!

I can't do anything this morning because I have to teach this afternoon.

Thursday morning I begin taking things off. I won't undo any lines until I'm ready to do the big stuff.

I think I'll go with local parts stores in order to get them quickly and reliably, and take anything back ASAP if something doesn't fit.

The main event should be Friday and Saturday. I have Sunday as a buffer. I want to give my Dad his truck back by then.

I may not do the rebuild kit. I'll just get the RF caliper and put in the sliders at the store. It they don't go in well, I won't take it and order another. We'll see.

I'll try to take pics for at least some of this.

After I get everything removed and drained the fluid, would blowing air through each one of the brake lines from the M/C location be a good idea?

Karl

[wtfman2]

when master cylinders go bad you have no pedal the fluid either leaks past the piston or out of the unit don't change it yet. If you have components that are leaking the change them, that's a no brainer. But if you got a buddy. Bleed the brakes before you take them apart. That way you can see if no fluid passes at on corner then you have a blockage in the prop valve or a bad rubber hose. That is the one thing they don't have any more in the Repair field, Mechanics,. All they have now is parts changers. And they wanna put new rotors on because then they will sell you new wheel bearings too cause they gotta split the hubs. Its criminal I tell you.


Clinton

[Safety Guy]

Yep, that's what it's like. "Parts swappers."

My Dad helped me bleed the brakes after I put in the new M/C. I bench bled it first, my first time doing a M/C.

My RF caliper was fine. My rear wheel cylinders were okay. Pads looked nice and thick. Shoes looked adequate until spring, when I will redo everything as necessary.

Firestone wanted $1500 to do my brakes! :roll:

PEP boys had said my M/C was good, but my RF caliper and hoses were bad. They couldn't pull my drums!

Firestone said my M/C was bad, and so was my RF caliper! In addition, my rear wheel cylinders were "bad." They did say my hoses were okay, and my hard lines were okay.

I spent a little under $120 for a NEW M/C, new fluid, and maybe five hours or so total work time.

I'm not including in the cost the new rear cylinders and caliper rebuild kits I bought, just in case. I'll use those maybe in the spring.

The lesson learned?:

DO IT YOURSELF!!
Karl