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  • Advice on replacing rotors

    I just bought some new rotors...I have never changed rotors before. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to get the hub off my festiva so the rotor can be changed. I dont want to accidently wreck some component. I think I know how to get the caliper off...there is a hex key nut that needs to be taken out, right? :?

  • #2
    oh boy, you're in for some fun.... you need to remove the steering knuckle from the car, which means pressing the halfshaft out of the hub, after you knock the lower balljoint out of the knuckle. Then take the knuckle off of the strut and take it over to your press. The hub and rotor get pressed out of the hub bearings as an assembly. Unbolt the old rotor, bolt the new one in place, and press the hub back into the knuckle. Then reinstall the knuckle to the vehicle. I'm gonna guess this is more than you bargained for......

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    • #3
      I've hit them off with a hammer. I removed the caliper and started hitting the rotor from the rear. I guess you could also use a slide hammer. Once off the rotor unbolts and I used the half shaft nut to pull it all back together. Not the correct or best way to do it but I've done it a few times.

      matt

      BP Festiva http://www.cardomain.com/ride/723319 - SOLD
      BPT Festiva www.cardomain.com/ride/2260009 - SOLD
      BPT GTX www.cardomain.com/ride/2436495 - SOLD
      New GTX - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3294846/ - SOLD

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      • #4
        The rotors are pressed into the hub? Good lord! All of the cars I've owned had rotors that I could just pull out. The calipers held them in place. That's just madness.
        GT

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        • #5
          They are not pressed on the hub. They are attached on the back of the hub. So you need remove the hub to change the rotor. Terrible design, makes a simple job a pain in the a$$.

          matt

          BP Festiva http://www.cardomain.com/ride/723319 - SOLD
          BPT Festiva www.cardomain.com/ride/2260009 - SOLD
          BPT GTX www.cardomain.com/ride/2436495 - SOLD
          New GTX - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3294846/ - SOLD

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          • #6
            Christ in a bucket!!!

            I guess I did bite off more than I can chew with this sonabitch. I have no idea what the hell a knuckle or half shaft are! I suppose its probably obvious when the wheel is off. This is the first car that I have owned that I am working on myself so that explains my ignorance.

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            • #7
              Now is the best time to learn. Saves you a shitload of money later. Best advice I can give you is to pick up a Haynes or shop manual (preferably the shop manual, which can usually be found on ebay for a reasonable price) and read up on what you're wanting to do before you actually do it. The books will not only guide you, but also help you to determine whether you're confident enough to try the task or not.
              GT

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Kindred
                Best advice I can give you is to pick up a Haynes or shop manual (preferably the shop manual
                Unfortunately, the Haynes manual is pretty much useless when it comes to changing rotors. Latest one I saw said to take it to a professional mechanic. Not much help, I'm afraid.

                Not sure about the shop manual. Haven't seen one yet. But, since I don't have the proper equipment (press?) it's likely I won't be able to do it myself anyway.

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                • #9
                  I am kind of in the same situation as you, my front rotors are a little warped. I'm not going to bother changing them since I've almost got everything for the aspire swap and the festiva rotors are more expensive than aspire rotors.
                  OX SMASH!!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mattswabb
                    I've hit them off with a hammer. I removed the caliper and started hitting the rotor from the rear. I guess you could also use a slide hammer. Once off the rotor unbolts and I used the half shaft nut to pull it all back together. Not the correct or best way to do it but I've done it a few times.

                    matt
                    wow, I can´t believe that you split hub and knuckle this way! :shock:

                    I replaced rotors and bearings last week using a tool for applying pressure to the hub through the knuckle via a hydraulic press.

                    Burgess Howell once posted a great how-to for fabricating a hub/knuckle pressing tool on the FML. I kinda copied that tool with excellent result.

                    The more you prepare the process, the less you will pay in the shop later on if you let them press it apart for you.

                    Replace your bearings as well once you got that thing apart. You probably won´t do it again that soon.

                    Having the hub and knuckle apart is a perfect moment for sandblasting and painting/powdercoating the parts before re-assembly


                    -Chris-
                    1988 Mazda 121DA canvas top
                    -73hp B3 multiport EFI swap
                    -KYB SS w/ Eibach -35mm / FMS HD rubber suspension parts

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by oxbrain
                      I am kind of in the same situation as you, my front rotors are a little warped. I'm not going to bother changing them since I've almost got everything for the aspire swap and the festiva rotors are more expensive than aspire rotors.
                      Hmm. was on autozone's website and it was just the opposite. Maybe it's location dependent. Dunno.

                      Festiva's here are $29 and the Aspire's are like $40 or $49, forget which.

                      The Aspire swap seems like the way to go over the long haul, though.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ChrisDrives121DA
                        I replaced rotors and bearings last week using a tool for applying pressure to the hub through the knuckle via a hydraulic press.

                        Burgess Howell once posted a great how-to for fabricating a hub/knuckle pressing tool on the FML. I kinda copied that tool with excellent result.


                        -Chris-
                        Don't suppose you'd happen to still have a link for that, would ya?

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                        • #13
                          Have you been to the Festiva Mailinglist, yet? check www.yahoo.com -> groups for "festiva" and contact the admin of the group which is on top of the results list for "festiva". I´m sure he can help you.

                          -Chris-
                          1988 Mazda 121DA canvas top
                          -73hp B3 multiport EFI swap
                          -KYB SS w/ Eibach -35mm / FMS HD rubber suspension parts

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                          • #14
                            hey chris why don't you post some diagrams or instruction on making that tool?
                            Jesus is on my dashboard, But the Devil is under my hood
                            1988 ford festiva...in limbo, apartments suck
                            1995 Ford Aspire...in limbo, wow i need a garage
                            2002 vw jetta wagon 2.0L, neuspeed p-flow 1994 Mercury cougar xr-7 v8, lowered, 18's

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                            • #15
                              I make some pictures of the tool. Just have to get some new batteries (I suggest this one of electricity age´s Top 10 excuses :-)

                              meanwhile dig the archives for a peep on the tool made by Burgess Howell.
                              1988 Mazda 121DA canvas top
                              -73hp B3 multiport EFI swap
                              -KYB SS w/ Eibach -35mm / FMS HD rubber suspension parts

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