Going to the yard to pull Aspire parts

[rbrown]

I know I have seen a post to another website where someone did the swap and laid out all the parts needed AND the tools to do it.

I searched and cannot find it.

I want to be prepared when I get to the yard so I do not have to come back.

[Safety Guy]

A 1 and 1/8" socket and bigass breaker bar to get those front wheel nuts loose. You may need a crowbar to stabilize the front hub if you don't have intact hydraulics on that Aspire and someone to push on the brake pedal for you.

However, I once saw a nonstandard size front wheel nut on an Aspire, and someone else here has posted that they had to deal with the same problem once. So be prepared.

Maybe a ball joint separator ("tuning fork") to help get things loose.

I can never get tie rod ends off a car. I buy new ones for Escorts (a lot cheaper anyway) and before I do a swap I take my Festiva into the shop that I plan to get my alignment from to have the stock tie rod ends loosened so I can easily remove them. (If you have a torch and the experience you won't need this.)

Those special box end wrenches that are partially open at the ends (called "flare nut wrenches") for your brake line connections. Or if there is way too much corrosion, just cut the metal brake line to get them off and separate the hardware later. If you aren't using the old hoses, disconnect them at the brakes. The flare nut wrench should still help there because you can slip it over the brake line. Standard open end or adjustable crescent wrenches may not grip the brake nut enough, stripping the flats and making removal next to impossible.

I've tried cutting brake hoses before, but they're pretty darn TOUGH!

For removing the tops of the rear struts if you can't get the bottoms of them off the axle, you'll need two slim wrenches to get the two nuts off the top. PITA.

LOTS OF PB BLASTER AND PATIENCE.

You may have to leave and go back later with better tools. Sometimes the junkyard folks can help you out with power tools or forklifts.

These are the things I've had most problems with that I can remember.

Have fun. Remember it's all a "learning adventure."

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Here's a pic of a flare nut wrench. If you buy just one, get the 10/12mm size. Craftsman has a set which I bought, but I also have an older one in the size I cited. They do come in useful for a few other things.

They handily split the difference in grip between the open end and box end styles.

Karl

[rbrown]

A 1 and 1/8" socket and bigass breaker bar to get those front wheel nuts loose. You may need a crowbar to stabilize the front hub if you don't have intact hydraulics on that Aspire and someone to push on the brake pedal for you.

However, I once saw a nonstandard size front wheel nut on an Aspire, and someone else here has posted that they had to deal with the same problem once. So be prepared.

Maybe a ball joint separator ("tuning fork") to help get things loose.

I can never get tie rod ends off a car. I buy new ones for Escorts (a lot cheaper anyway) and before I do a swap I take my Festiva into the shop that I plan to get my alignment from to have the stock tie rod ends loosened so I can easily remove them. (If you have a torch and the experience you won't need this.)

Those special box end wrenches that are partially open at the ends (called "flare nut wrenches") for your brake line connections. Or if there is way too much corrosion, just cut the metal brake line to get them off and separate the hardware later. If you aren't using the old hoses, disconnect them at the brakes. The flare nut wrench should still help there because you can slip it over the brake line. Standard open end or adjustable crescent wrenches may not grip the brake nut enough, stripping the flats and making removal next to impossible.

I've tried cutting brake hoses before, but they're pretty darn TOUGH!

For removing the tops of the rear struts if you can't get the bottoms of them off the axle, you'll need two slim wrenches to get the two nuts off the top. PITA.

LOTS OF PB BLASTER AND PATIENCE.

You may have to leave and go back later with better tools. Sometimes the junkyard folks can help you out with power tools or forklifts.

These are the things I've had most problems with that I can remember.

Have fun. Remember it's all a "learning adventure."

Karl

Yeah those nuts are the biggest question. I have some metric and standard big monsters but I bet they are NOT the ones I already have. Ha.

And we don't have the rust problem down here you guys norther do. I hope all come loose easier.

[FestYboy]

if you get a set of flair nut wrenches, pony up the cash and get Snap-On. I've used craftsman and S.K and MAC, Snap-On wins every time (they don't spread, at least not for me) everyone elses spreads under heavier loads, and rounds off the nut (bad).

[muscle_Car1]

Here you go. Print it out.

http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/aspirebrakes.htm

[rbrown]

That was it.

10Q

I am going to print me another copy. I lost my other with all my notes on it.

[stefan]

if you get a set of flair nut wrenches, pony up the cash and get Snap-On. I've used craftsman and S.K and MAC, Snap-On wins every time (they don't spread, at least not for me) everyone elses spreads under heavier loads, and rounds off the nut (bad).

x2!

[Safety Guy]

About the Snap Ons: I was in Advance Auto Parts today and he said their new line of tools are made by Snap On.

Anyone seen these, and if so, what do you think?

Karl

[FestYboy]

BS



snap-on makes 2 lines: Snap-On, and Blue Point

[gorgonheimer]

you can order industrial grade wrenches from snap-on, they are the same wrench without the chrome plating so they cost less but no vendor ever has them in stock

[gorgonheimer]

oh gimme a call, if i'm not busy ill go with. pm sent with phone #

[Biff]

just reading above, stick a screw driver in the rotor slots in a good spot , should do the trick