Sway Bar-Front AND Rear

[Festiva_tunner]

take a picture of the spot and take a measurement of the clearence if there's enough gap I can get you some thick insulating rubber we strip off the 690V cables - that would limit any vibration noise or wear points

[hot4dl8ly]

On my car the Aspire bar didnt contact the crossmember, but the front trans mount. I wound up squishing it in a hydraulic press for clearence.

[TominMO]

On my car the Aspire bar didnt contact the crossmember, but the front trans mount. I wound up squishing it in a hydraulic press for clearence.

Got mine on today, with John/Pu241's assistance. Just drove around the parking lot, but oh man it corners a lot flatter!

Mine ended up the same as yours, touches front trans mount not the crossmember. Decided it's not a problem. Cut off about 3/4" of the lower hose where it enters the rad, which did raise it up enough that it barely touches the sway bar. Decided that this is not an issue either.

[woodyvw16v]

srry to be dragging up an old thread but, has anyone else tried anything else along these lines? the threaded rod looks like a good idea but the issue of the od spinning in the hole seems like it would greatly reduce the effect.

being unfamiliar with the location of the two pairs of holes in the rear beam that were mentioned it would seem that one could use a piece of tubing with a bracket welded on each end and bolt the bracket into both holes. this would allow you to use a hollow tube (for greater torsional resistance with less weight than a solid rod) and would also take care of the issue of the rod spinning in the holes, and would split the difference between the two holes- since it was mentioned that the nearest hole to the wheels would be better to use for some reasons and the neerest to the tube are better for other reasons.

i think im going to give it a shot, but thought id throw it out there to see what you guys thought.

[Aaronbrook37]

Have a look at my build thread, page three. Link in the sig.

[woodyvw16v]

ahh. thank you sir. excellent pics and lots of detail.

diggin the front lower tie bar too. great idea!

[NicholasJackson]

Ohhh be carefull, my dad did this once and with the vibration the nuts pulled the metal in. It was on a lawnmower though. :S

[woodyvw16v]

yes i have seen that on equipment before as well, and on a strut tower bar i had on my civic back in the day. not just in even, ive seen a steel nut shake its self straight through an aluminum component or two. but a decent torque and a couple of washers can prevent that, as does use of similar metals (steel on steel, alum. on alum., etc.)

[71Montego]

I did the rear threaded bar install. I cound not get the 5/8 here on Long Island, NY as the largest they had was 1/2 in 6 foot lenghts. I was able to get it in Loews for $11 and change and another buck for 2 nylon locking nuts. I cut it to 4' 1/2" and had to remove one tire to get it in but it was done in 10 minutes after cutting the rod to size. Nice easy and noticeable project.
thanks