hub centric adapters?

[Kofkof_00]

The guy at the tire store told me the weird little rings that came with my estrella's (now on the gf's white festy) are hub centric adapters.

Apparently aftermarket rims need this as they tend to have the biggest center hole. He also said I should get the "mag specific hub centric adapter" directly from the wheel manifacturer.

What is the non-aspire converted diameter on a standard festy?

If I don't get the adapter, the wheel has a chance of being "wobbly" despite being the proper bolt patern & size...

WARNING WARNING WARNING generic fitment question!
Also, several members here run 15", anyone run 15' with a 7" width? Anyone run 15" with 7" width on the FMS KYB GR2 setup? I found some really nice ebay rims, but I'm trying to hedge my bets fitment wise.

[marinepolice03]

if your asking on bolt pattern it is 4x4.5 i have 13's on mine they are after market and they dont use hub centric adapters. and other people i know dont run them and our rims are fine they are not "wobbly"

[festivaWES]

Hub centric rings do absolutely nothing but aid the ease installment. They are a waste of money. Personally i would convert to lug studs and nuts before i fork over money for hubcentric rings.

My enkies apachie v's have a huge center bore. I have driven on them the whole time in california and the whole 1500 mile trip to missouri with no vibration or wobbles or loosening lugnuts at all.

SNAKE OIL!

[drddan]

Well... I KINDA agree with festivaWES and KINDA disagree......
I have HUB CENTRIC RINGS on mine. Festiva's are an odd size.
My Festiva hubs, measured with a Micrometer check 2.343", (2 11/32") or 59.5 MM. The center hole on my Enkei 92's is 73MM. (2.875" or 2 7/8")
I have only been able to find 73MM (O.D.) X 59.61(I.D.) and
73MM (O.D.) X 59.1MM (I.D.) Rings. So they don't fit like I would like and if I get to a lathe, I will make my own or modify the 59.1MM bore of the 73MM X 59.1MM Hub centric ring to 59.5MM.
The point though, is, it is possible to torque the BOLTS or STUDS at a slight angle, IF,the weight of the car is sitting on the rim/wheel while tightening the lugs. Sometimes people just finger tight the lugs, and then let the jack down to tighten them. This can cause an out of concentric condition and get vibration similar to an out of balance tire. So, I would tighten them tight, with the tire off the ground.

[TominMO]

I agree with Wes on this. I have 14" AR Estrellas, with the dual-bolt patterns we use, 100 and 114.3; when I had them on Blue, I needed aftermarket lug bolts to properly center the wheels on the lug holes; I did not need the hub-centric rings at all.

The reason for the aftermarket lug bolts is that the stock lug bolts do not have the "cone" part (the taper) go deep enough for the aftermarket aluminum wheels, which are thicker. They wobbled and vibrated with stock lug bolts. That went completely away when I switched to aftermarket.

[drddan]

Yea, That is good advice. Was thinking of doing same with A/M studs.

[muscle_Car1]

Put in studs & you wont have to worry

[drddan]

Gotta "best place" to buy studs?

[MONSOON]

Any local auto parts store.

[Kofkof_00]

I all ready have converted to studs in preparation of the "new rim project".

and


I love my Estrella's (they look awsome on the white car!) But... too many people have them for the black car.


I bought my stud / lug nut conversion at "lordco" (canadian equivalent is probably pep boys or some such) for $64. This is for16 extra length studs with an alan head, some purple lock tight, and 16 open ended 60% tapered nuts.

The whole thing took about 2hrs to do, but i'm a bit slow for mechanical work.

[Kofkof_00]

Does anyone know if the FMS springs have different rates from front to back? Looking at the picture above, it struck me that my car is low in the rear.