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"How to" Change Aspire Wheelbearings!

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  • Amos
    started a topic "How to" Change Aspire Wheelbearings!

    "How to" Change Aspire Wheelbearings!

    I'll update the pictures as soon as I'm out of class!

    Hey there, I'm not the most mechanically inclined person... but one thing I'm good at is finding and compiling information! The following guide was pulled from many sources on the internet.. NONE OF THIS WORK IS MY OWN!! I just compiled the info all into one place!

    1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove front wheel.

    2. Unstake half shaft attaching nut using suitable chisel. Apply brakes to prevent hub assembly from turning, then remove and discard attaching nut.

    3. Remove brake hose to strut bracket retaining clip.

    4. Remove cotter pin and tie rod attaching nut, then separate tie rod from steering knuckle using suitable tool.

    5. Remove brake calliper attaching bolts, and then lift calliper assembly off steering knuckle.
    a. CAUTION: Do not allow calliper to hang unsupported from brake hose. Wire calliper in place as required.

    6. Remove ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt and nut, then pry downward on control arm and disconnect joint from knuckle.

    7. Remove steering knuckle to strut bracket attaching bolts and nuts, and then slide hub/rotor assembly together with steering knuckle off end of half shaft.

    8. If difficulty is encountered separating hub from half shaft, tap end of shaft with plastic mallet to facilitate removal.

    9. Separate hub/rotor assembly from steering knuckle.

    10. Remove bearing preload spacer from hub. The spacer is pre-selected to yield correct bearing preload. Save spacer to use during assembling.

    11. Clamp hub/rotor assembly in soft jaw vice, scribe alignment marks on hub and rotor, then remove hub to rotor attaching bolts and separate rotor from hub.

    12. Using suitable bearing remover, press hub shaft from outer bearing, then remove outer grease seal from hub.

    13. Using suitable seal remover, pry inner grease seal from steering knuckle bore, then remove inner bearing.

    14. Inspect bearings, hub, steering knuckle and dust shield for damage or excessive wear. Replace components as necessary.

    16. If original bearings and steering knuckle are being used, proceed to step 15. If bearings or steering knuckle require replacement, proceed as follows to select proper bearing preload spacer:
    a. Drive new inner and outer bearing races into steering knuckle using suitable tools.
    b. Lubricate races and new bearings with engine oil, and then install bearings into steering knuckle.

    17. Install spacer selection tool kit T87C-1104-B, original spacer and hardware as shown onto steering knuckle, then clamp steering knuckle in soft jaw vice.

    18. Tighten center bolt in increments to 36, 72, 108, and 145 ft lb . After bolt is tightened to each specification, remove assembly from vice and rotate steering knuckle to seat bearings.

    19. Again clamp steering knuckle in vice, then measure the amount of torque necessary to start rotation of center bolt using an inch pound torque wrench.

    20. If torque reading is 2.2-10.4 in lb , spacer is correct thickness. If torque reading is less than 2.2 in lb , a thinner spacer must be used. If torque reading is greater than 10.4 in lb , a thicker spacer must be used. Twenty one spacers of various thicknesses are available for service. Each spacer has a number stamped on it for identification purposes, Fig. 6. Changing the spacer by one number, either up or down, will result in a 1.7-3.5 in lb change in bearing preload.

    21. Pack bearings and hub with suitable high temperature grease, then install inner bearing into steering knuckle.

    22. Lubricate seal lip, then install new inner seal using suitable tool.

    23. Place original bearing preload spacer, or spacer selected in step 14, into steering knuckle.

    24. Lubricate seal lip, then install outer wheel bearing and new outer seal into knuckle.

    25. Position rotor onto hub, aligning marks made during disassembling, then1install attaching bolts.

    26. Place hub/rotor assembly into steering knuckle bore, then press assembly fully into knuckle using suitable tools.

    27. Follow steps 1 through 7 in reverse order to complete installation and note the following:

    28. *Apply a thin coat of grease to halfshaft splines before installing steering knuckle and hub/rotor assembly.

    29. *When installing NEW halfshaft attaching nut, apply brakes to prevent hub assembly from turning. Stake nut into groove on halfshaft after tightening to 116-174 ft lb .

    30. *Tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut to 22-33 ft lb , then install new cotter pin. NOTE : If holes in attaching nut do not line up with hole in ball stud, tighten nut as required until cotter pin can be installed. Never loosen nut when installing cotter pin.
    Last edited by Amos; 02-26-2010, 10:26 AM.

  • ricko1966
    Way more work than necessary.I pop the lower balljoint.pop the tie rod end. Push the axle through the hub.put the lower ballpoint back in place put a slide hammer through the hub.yank yank and the hub is out everything is simple then, suck it all back together with a piece of all thread a couple of washers and nuts.I did a complete write up about doing it this way along time ago.

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  • Hatch
    Holy cow, such an involved process! Why is this so much more than other wheel bearings?

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  • Britstiva
    If you research my postings... you'll find the same thing... with photographs.

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  • Festy46
    If you want your very own knuckle puller tool, you can get it at:
    for $150.

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  • Aspire SVT
    this thread made me feel like christmas morning. ive been driving around on timken front wheel bearings with my original spacer for around 5 years and whenever i get over 50 mph i get the venerable death shimmie in the front end. ive probaby put 20 k on the bearings being loose like that since i found out ford no longer carried the spacers. once i found out i could still get them i set off on my quest once again to find the shim selection tool and i finally found it after 2 years hiding in a different tool kit! I called up kia and i ordered all 21 of them at cost. they arrived today! time for some preload on some new timkens!

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  • Damkid
    This should definately be stickied or moved to the article section!!

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  • Amos
    Thanks.. I just realized I did do some of the work.. I created the table with the Kia Wheel bearing parts numbers!

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  • Maxtiva
    Nice write-up. You must have done a lot of searching. Thanks for your hard work.

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