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Hub Centric rings for the spacers?

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  • Hub Centric rings for the spacers?

    Got spacers from EZAccessory, only problem is they don't center! I thought they centered with the lugs? Do I need a hub-centric ring just for the freaking spacers?
    Current cars:

    1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
    1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
    2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
    2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

  • #2
    Technically yes....Dont know how that would work though.

    Has caught the most Festivas on Fire on this board!!

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm so sick of buying crap that should fit that doesn't dude, this whole build has been one screw-up after another because of either a machinist can't do his job right or a shop says one thing and pretty much lies about how their product works.

      This current screw-up means I'm gonna end up running 14s in the front 12s in the rear.
      Last edited by chrisofna; 05-13-2010, 10:10 PM.
      Current cars:

      1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
      1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
      2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
      2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

      Comment


      • #4
        That's how us gangsters roll...

        I run 1/4 spacers in the rear. I'm using capri rims so I pop out the center and use a small screwdriver to align it before I tighten the lug nuts/bolts. I use my feet to put pressure on the rim to hold the spacer. Putting studs in makes life easier.


        Take it back to the back porch, join the 3 string revolution.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by anomoly40 View Post
          That's how us gangsters roll...

          I run 1/4 spacers in the rear. I'm using capri rims so I pop out the center and use a small screwdriver to align it before I tighten the lug nuts/bolts. I use my feet to put pressure on the rim to hold the spacer. Putting studs in makes life easier.
          I have rear spacers too. I have the lug studs instead of the bolts, and it is more convenient. I hold my spacers in place with a couple of small pieces of duct tape. You do not need centering rings at all.

          Bear in mind that you will probably need different lug bolts than the stock ones for some wheels, unless you switch to studs. The tapered part of the stock lug bolt is very short, and that's the part that contacts the wheel. On aluminum wheels, with deeper tapered areas for the nut or stud, the wheel will probably vibrate at hwy speeds when using stock lug bolts, until you use the proper, deeper lug bolt or switch to studs. I got lug bolts that work from Advance Auto, which I am now using on my Aspire, since I switched the Festy to studs.

          Here's a thread on the studs: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ght=wheel+stud
          Last edited by TominMO; 05-14-2010, 08:26 AM.
          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
          09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

          You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

          Disaster preparedness

          Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

          Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

          Comment


          • #6
            I have studs on my car.

            Current cars:

            1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
            1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
            2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
            2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by chrisofna View Post
              I have studs on my car.
              That's the same setup I have: I just stuck some duct tape to the spacer and drum to center it, tho it's probably not really necessary.
              90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
              09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

              You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

              Disaster preparedness

              Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

              Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm running the same spacers on my car too. What I do is get the wheels in place and run the bolts in finger tight. I reach through the wheel with my fingers and center the spacer by feel. I haven't had any issues... yet.

                A tip for those running 1/4" spacers and still using lug bolts. I discovered that BMW lug bolts have the same seat angle as the Festiva and are 1/4" longer that our standard lug bolts. Standard lug bolts don't have enough thread in the drum/rotor with the spacers.

                Hope that helps.

                Cheers
                Ian
                Calgary AB, Canada
                93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
                59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

                "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

                Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good tip on the BMW lug bolts.
                  90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                  09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                  You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                  Disaster preparedness

                  Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                  Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Where do you get the studs for the conversion? Can you get them at a McParts store, or do you have to get them off the internet or Ebay?

                    I think I'll go that route to mount my 323 wheels and get 1/4" spacers for the back.
                    I think I'll just use RTV to stick them to the drums and hold them in place. The 323 wheel fit pretty tight on the center hole & center themselves.
                    Brian

                    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                    Not enough time or money for any of them

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                    • #11
                      Autozone has them but they're like $5. Try looking up 12x1.5 studs. I think that's the size. Do a search in here to double check me.


                      Take it back to the back porch, join the 3 string revolution.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by anomoly40 View Post
                        Autozone has them but they're like $5. Try looking up 12x1.5 studs. I think that's the size. Do a search in here to double check me.
                        This is the correct size and I think I use 1.5"

                        BPT, G5M-R, BP26 Exintake swap + Fidanza cam gear, NSRT4 FMIC + 2.5" piping, HKS SSQV BOV, Exedy clutch, 3" downpipe + 2" all the way back, Aspire brake swap, KYB GR-2 & FMS coil spring , FMS EURO body kit + Carbon fiber hood, Falcon RTX 15X6˝ + Toyo proxes T1R 195/45R15

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                        • #13
                          Question! If the BMW lugs work, would they be a better choice than lug studs and nuts if a spacer is installed, or is it a personal choice? Also, I know I may not need spacers for the front wheels, but I'd like my tires to be equally distant from the fenders all the way around. Do the front axles actually stick out farther than the rear, or would spacers all the way around keep the equal distance front to rear?
                          In love with a MadScientist!
                          There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DriverOne View Post
                            Question! If the BMW lugs work, would they be a better choice than lug studs and nuts if a spacer is installed, or is it a personal choice? Also, I know I may not need spacers for the front wheels, but I'd like my tires to be equally distant from the fenders all the way around. Do the front axles actually stick out farther than the rear, or would spacers all the way around keep the equal distance front to rear?
                            Personal choice... I'd recommend the studs/nuts if you frequently take your wheels off for any reason. For example... if you do your tire rotations yourself or switch tires for racing/winter/drag. I know for certain I'm not the only member on here who gets frustrated trying to put wheels back on with lug bolts. It's quite the nuisance compared to other cars.

                            As for the tire-track issue, the spacers aren't thick enough to really cause a noticeable difference. For example, you won't end up with that "Dub" VW look with the fat and tucked rear tires. If you were really paranoid about it, I suppose you could pay double and run front spacers... but there isn't really much reason to. It's not worth trying to fix something that isn't broken when that fix itself could cause issues. For example, the front spacer could very well cause clearance issues with your fender depending on your setup.
                            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                              Where do you get the studs for the conversion? Can you get them at a McParts store, or do you have to get them off the internet or Ebay?

                              I think I'll go that route to mount my 323 wheels and get 1/4" spacers for the back.
                              I think I'll just use RTV to stick them to the drums and hold them in place. The 323 wheel fit pretty tight on the center hole & center themselves.
                              Here's where mine are coming from... I have yet to receive them, so if you're in no rush to get them, wait until I can confirm it's a good seller/product. http://www.bildon.com/catalog/result...ds/Nuts&Nav=10

                              I ordered 17 45mm racing wheel studs and 17 conical seat wheel nuts. Never hurts to have a spare in case you muck it up putting on your last one. It also gives me one to use for pictures. Note that they are open-style nuts in case of surplus threads.

                              I'm probably going to try and find a car with OEM 17mm lugs in a junkyard, and steal the tire iron so I can carry that one around in my car. Which reminds me... gotta hunt down a Miata spare tire and see if it'll fit into the stock spare well.
                              1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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