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  • Rear strut extensions for more clearance?

    In this thread on page 8, Tom suggests an "extension block" for gaining more rear strut perch clearance:

    Discuss improvements to your Festiva or Aspire in the handling, braking, wheels and tires areas.


    I went out and looked at one and began thinking. My initial thoughts are in that thread.

    Then I thought of this idea, but my posting time had run out. So here I am with a new thread on it, which is probably better. I give TominMO the credit for the basic idea though. I hadn't thought of this before now.


    Okay, I think I have a better idea than an extender block:

    1. Buy new rear struts of the type you want.

    2. Obtain a pair of new lower strut mount "circles" with the rubber isolators and proper sleeve dimensions for a Festiva/Aspire lower strut mount bolt.

    3. Clean off all paint and dirt and then weld the new "circles" onto the bottom of the new struts. Thus, the struts get the "extension" part instead of the axle. Welding should not be a problem since the heat will be mostly away from the gas charged strut body. For extra strength, now weld two short pieces of metal onto each side for further reinforcement. You're essentially welding a new "circle" onto the existing strut "circle" already in place.

    4. Paint to cover bare metal and install, using anti-seize compound for easier removal in future.

    Yes, you'll have to redo this when you get new struts, but it will weigh less and have the rigidity and location problems solved immediately, with less work. We may be able to use old rear strut bottoms to fabricate this part, too, reducing expenses and some fabrication as well.

    One variation would be to cut off maybe half of the existing strut "circle" and so you will be welding the new one on closer to the strut, for a little less spacing. This could be a more rigid method, too, and use less welding.

    What do you all think?

    Karl
    Last edited by Safety Guy; 04-17-2011, 11:08 AM.
    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

  • #2
    Welding on a gas charged strut still scares me..........I agree it's different than welding on the strut body, but still. I wonder if you could fab some kind of an adapter plate to go between the ends of the axle and where the axle stub bolts on? you could lower the mounting point by whatever amount you want, plus it would also space the wheels out for extra clearance from the LCA.
    Last edited by blkfordsedan; 04-17-2011, 12:35 PM.
    Brian

    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
    Not enough time or money for any of them

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    • #3
      Good thoughts here. BTW Karl, I got the idea from a lift kit I bought for my 1990 Subaru Loyale, which used 3" aluminum blocks (or plates, as appropriate) for the body lift. I'm still partial to blocks/steel plate, so you can then move them to new rear struts. And getting back stock ride height by cutting one coil is a good idea too; but if you wanted a winter beater, keep the extra lift and stick on some 155/80x13" snow tires.

      If the extender fits in snugly, there won't be any movement. Just takes some trial fitting as it's being built.
      Last edited by TominMO; 04-17-2011, 05:54 PM.
      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

      Disaster preparedness

      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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      • #4
        what about switching to narrower springs? the extra load springs i use in Scrappy just fit around the strut body, so you could remove the section of the spring pearch that gets in the way (no welding involved).
        Trees aren't kind to me...

        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
          what about switching to narrower springs? the extra load springs i use in Scrappy just fit around the strut body, so you could remove the section of the spring pearch that gets in the way (no welding involved).
          Good thought. Greg has suggested just grinding off the spring perch where it rubs. That would probably be sufficient for a 175/70x13 on a 4.5" to 5.5" wide rim.
          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
          09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

          You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

          Disaster preparedness

          Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

          Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

          Comment


          • #6
            ^ it is... lol. that's what i've done to fit the 185/60/14s on Scrappy, BUT if you run anything more agressive, that fix isn't gonna cut it. Going any wider, barring clearance issues at the strut will be clearing the rear axle swingarm. i know Scrappy sits really close as is...
            Trees aren't kind to me...

            currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
            94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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            • #7
              before I knew about coil overs I actually used to cut and sleeve the bottom rods just above the lower mounting point and below the strut body. As far as welding, I have actually cut and welded new purches without any issues.
              91 Festiva GL "Scrat"
              82 Honda Goldwing GL1100i
              85 BMW 535is "Brunhild"

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              • #8
                Hmmm, cutting and sleeving the bottom extension rod does sound like a better idea to me, but coil overs are probably simpler and have other advantages.

                Karl
                '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                Comment

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