aspire break swap question??

[takeone51]

i finally found a decent aspire in the junk yard close to me to do my fest break swap, but their is one thing im not shure about i know from visiting festiva motorsport that the automatic and manual aspire rotors may be different in some way.. but my question is should i get the suspension and brakes from the auto aspire or keep looking for a manual,if so what is the difference?? can anyone enlighten me,to lazy to do more research.. thanx
:?

[mechanicaldj]

the automatic trans. rotor is thicker than the manual trans. and the calipers do not interchange between them.

[mattswabb]

The only difference is that the auto rotors are thicker. I don't think you'll notice any difference.

[takeone51]

ok, thicker to put up with more heat i guess, im not shure if thats good or bad... maybe i'll keep looking for a manual aspire.

[mattswabb]

Mine are from an auto aspire no problems at all. Don't wait around for a manual car. I've never come across a manual aspire in the yard yet.

[mechanicaldj]

the automatic rotors are heavier too.

i have the manual rotors and calipers on mine.

[Safety Guy]

An ATX Aspire rotor is about 1.5 pounds heavier than an MTX Aspire rotor, comparing brand new Raybestos PG Plus rotors. I weighed each set on a decent bathroom scale and got a 3 pound difference between sets.

If you will be exchanging your junkyard calipers for rebuilt ones, just tell the nice counter person that you want manual calipers back. You don't have to say which ones you are giving him. I'm sure the rebuilders will be able to figure it out, and they probably don't care.

Karl

[takeone51]

word, well light weight is what im going for since i striped my car and got the b6t swap.. thanx for the info guys..

[Silv3rBull3t]

Well if you also know about your thermo, a larger rotor (more weight, yes) will also be able to handle a greater amount of thermodynamic energy (braking) before it actually succumbs to the same fate as the lighter (Manual rotor) and finally allows your great brake pedal to touch the floor... Just a thought, not like anyone would actually like to have a greater capability to stop. I guess go is all that matters. Guess what? The world isn't flat, and there isn't a straightaway that goes around our entire county, country, world so guess what else? You need to slow down and turn once and awhile... :idea:

[Safety Guy]

The way I look at it is that Aspire manual rotors are a huge upgrade alone. They are vented, larger, and designed for a 200 pound heavier car. Add stiffer cut Aspire front springs to allow less front end plunge and that "shares" the stopping work better with the larger rear brakes.

My guess is that only someone who does downhill racing or hauls really heavy loads or has some other real good reason would need the thicker rotors. I could be wrong.

If the difference were less than a pound per side, I'd probably go with the thicker rotors "just because I could."

But with about 1.5 pounds per side at stake, my decision was not to. My experience with the Mutt was that the manual rotors were awesome enough.

If you lived in the mountains, often carried two or three passengers, and regularly hauled a loaded trailer, then, yeah, get the auto rotors!

Karl

[takeone51]

cool thanx for the info guys, i would like to go with the manual since it is lighter.. keep the ideas flowin. 8)

[FRANTIK]

what all do you need for the swap...just caliper and rotor...or the whole nuckle, MC, booster???

[Gforcefd]

there should be a sticky

There should be a sticky with a detailed brake down somewheres on here, its either in the ARTICLES section at the bottom of the forum or its in Custome suspension section, Anyways it lists every tool you need and every part, along with optional parts too.

Logan