Originally posted by FB71
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custom tube control arms
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Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by IdealSociety View PostHeres a real question, a single part is easy to machine and build, particularly if it can be kept as simple as possible.
how much variation in a control arm do we need? ive been sketching something up in solidworks that could replace a factory LCA with an adjustable unit, but how much in/out would you guys be looking at? It would have to retain the stock sway bar for simplicity but would at least be tubular and adjustable for different hub selctions (of course moving the hub in/out you will also need to use adjustable camber top hats.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by FestYboy View Postthe arm can't have any variation to the stock length if using stock axles or the axle has a good chance of popping out. that is unless you have an idea for using a stronger unit from a different chassis...
Ill work on a couple other sketches in solidworks and see if i cant find a better solution. I do have one other design up my sleeve, but it might not be cheap and i plan on keeping it under wraps till i have time to build it later this winter after ive finished the turbo upgrades.1992 Festiva... BP-T, Escort G5MR, no crossmember, aspire brakes, Megasquirt, Toyota COP's, coilovers and 6 puck SPEC clutch!
T3/T4 Turbo Power! G5MR and BP since '04!
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What I find strange is that the original poster has not yet responded to this thread after starting it, sorry but like mentioned earlier, I would not buy suspension parts from someone who doesn't know simple spelling/grammar, not to mention a newbie that could take your money and run (not saying it'll happen but how do we really know)Last edited by Damkid; 11-02-2011, 08:11 PM.
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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i'm close enough to find out... eh? what could it hurt?Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Still, no thanks, I'd rather build my own custom suspension parts and know what's going on my car
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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Originally posted by Damkid View PostStill, no thanks, I'd rather build my own custom suspension parts and know what's going on my car
Also, as an option for swapped/longer axels maybe there would be a way to mount an 8-10" U shaped bracket to the unibody 1-2ft behind the inner lca mount with a hinge on the side and another arm leading up to the new lca with a smaller ball joint there going up and down? It would only require a plate/bracket added to the side of the lca. Or is mounting to the same rail as the inner lca just a really bad idea? It would allow for up and down travel, but probably support the sway bar enough with back and forth motion and help alot with handling? It would probably be easier/cheaper to turn it into an a-frame type of lca than mounting a new sway bar. I dunno, just thoughts lmk if it makes any sense or not.
The biggest thing is that your messing with a vital part of the suspension, and if it was to break, lives would be at risk. The materials and welds would be #1 priority, and figure out cost from there.. the ebay specials just don't care about stuff like that, why would they care (foreigners) about american lives.i consider myself a good welder, and I have/will/do put my life on my work, but i couldn't bring myself to ask someone else to unless I thoroughly tested it first.Last edited by zoom zoom; 11-03-2011, 06:18 AM.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View Posti consider myself a good welder, and I have/will/do put my life on my work, but i couldn't bring myself to ask someone else to unless I thoroughly tested it first.
And yes, due to a part like this where theres so many variables on the parts people would wanna use it does kinda suck. my primary use for it wasnt to push the wheels out or use different axles, it was to equip the escort spindle on XR2 axles and keep as close to stock geometry as possible.
the 5th design i have sketched up however, is a full tubular replacement assembly for the front end replacing the control arms and sway bar with heim joints and a couple extra tidbits, but until tax time comes back i cant afford R&D on that one1992 Festiva... BP-T, Escort G5MR, no crossmember, aspire brakes, Megasquirt, Toyota COP's, coilovers and 6 puck SPEC clutch!
T3/T4 Turbo Power! G5MR and BP since '04!
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well if in the proccess yes looking at removable ball joint have jigs built and fyi no i cant spell and would not ever try to sell or biuld somthing that i would feel safe putting my kids in or aloan some one else life at risk be billing custum parts for year just want to see what kind of responce were from people if it would be something in doing to make money an trying to find best cost effishent way for low budget peeps like me
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If you fail to check for rust and ripped metal on your frame everytime you are under there to change your oil you are just as much as fault as a new part going on that is defective/inherent design flawed. My car is a california car with zero rust and the area where the control arm attaches on the passenger side is still ripped to shreds and needs to be addressed before i can take it anywhere far. If you take things a step further and add another mounting point you could be transferring stresses where there wasn't any and do more damage where the flimsy car was just flexing.
You can always add the aspire steering rack, it would make things slightly larger if you used the aspire arms and axles. Has anyone done this?? I know the 323 had a stripped down model, (f trans) did any capris (g-trans models) have a manual steering option? Did any BP kia sephias? "Upgrading" using OEM parts bin is always a good way to go. Car companies with millions in budget allowances love to try things like this, it's probably the younger guys with a little power and voice in the company who bring us any performance anymore.
There is a guy making adjustable REAR control arms for my srt-4 neon. When all is said and done his are $450 in parts alone. If you buy the better joints that do not die from exposure after 2 years you're looking at 600 bucks, and they are a 2 point attachment, not 3 with a ball joint. Those heims are hellaspensive (he's from up north)Last edited by getnpsi; 11-04-2011, 11:08 AM.1993 GL 5 speed
It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!
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