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  • Anti Squat question

    Will lowering the front attach point of the sway bar add ANTI SQUAT? I'm guessing yes....Anyone with chassis experience please chime in.Thanks Nitrofarm-
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

  • #2
    Isn't the front mount just a hinge point? I think the swaybar only works as an anti twist from side to side to keep both tires contacted to the road.

    I could see your idea working if it was a torsion bar type setup
    (paperboy 23) 88 Festy Blue, aspire Engine/trans/efi swap,

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    • #3
      are you talking about launch squat, cornering squat, or braking squat?

      1992 Festiva... BP-T, Escort G5MR, no crossmember, aspire brakes, Megasquirt, Toyota COP's, coilovers and 6 puck SPEC clutch!

      T3/T4 Turbo Power! G5MR and BP since '04!

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      • #4
        If you want to launch squat, remove the bar all together and put and old pair of struts in there.
        91 Festiva, BP, auto
        69 Mercury Cyclone CJ, 428 SCJ, 4 spd

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        • #5
          From the way I see it, the sway bar is what holds the tires in the wheel well, the back and forth motion, so when your tire spins it doesn't go thru your front bumper. Removing it would mess up your car. It also provides support to both tires to touch the gound, and helps control body roll around corners. For what I think your trying to say, you would have to move the frame mounts back farther on the front frame rail toward the wheel, but it would put alot of pressure on the the lca and sway bar bushings all around and wear them out quick...? Lowering it would not only bind the sway bar in the lca but make it want to squat more because it's a longer distance from the lca hole to the mounting position and the wheel would sit closer to the front of the wheel well normally.
          Last edited by zoom zoom; 11-03-2011, 11:34 AM.
          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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          • #6
            If your talking about squat when you accelerate, put the springs off my car on. Somewhat harsh ride but it won't squat and you can corner pretty good
            :cry_smile: RIP. 91 Ford festiva BP swap

            1990 Mazda Miata BP swap, 99 trans, 3.9 Torsen rear end, Mazdaspeed6 k04 turbo on 15 psi.

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            • #7
              this don't mean squat!

              do a coil over setup with QA1'a on the cheap. it will improve handling too.
              89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
              94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
              2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
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              • #8
                Yea someone was selling ebay special festy coilovers with estimated 400 sum lbs spring rate, would definately beef the antisquat lol or just do the rio swap, they're a bit firmer than stock springs, but the ride quality is amazing compared to stock.
                Last edited by zoom zoom; 11-03-2011, 12:56 PM.
                2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                • #9
                  Lowering the sway bar swivel point would change the travel arc of the LCAs from straight up and down to slightly diagonal where the wheel would move slightly forward when you hit a bump delivering more shock. The opposite of "trailing arm" systems used on some cars to absorb shock.

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                  • #10
                    This is where the severe limitations of our front suspension shows itself very very quickly...
                    91GL BP/F3A with boost
                    13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Occhty View Post
                      Isn't the front mount just a hinge point? I think the swaybar only works as an anti twist from side to side to keep both tires contacted to the road.

                      I could see your idea working if it was a torsion bar type setup
                      No our sway Bar is half of the Lwr control arm.

                      Originally posted by IdealSociety View Post
                      are you talking about launch squat, cornering squat, or braking squat?
                      All three.Change one & you change all three right.Its all a compromise Anti squat,its just a Generic term.For the deg angle of the control arm in relationship to the diff.It prolly doesnt matter much till you start running more HP. But thats where I'm headed,So thats why I'm asking.



                      Originally posted by 71Montego View Post
                      If you want to launch squat, remove the bar all together and put and old pair of struts in there.
                      Seriously.You cant be serious.The sway bar is 1/2 of the lower control arm.

                      Originally posted by bhazard View Post
                      This is where the severe limitations of our front suspension shows itself very very quickly...
                      Yes,you are correct. I've seen a couple folks on here do the front bushing mods. (and it appeared that the mount point got lowered) which would add some anti-squat.( at least thats what I'm thinking) But these suspension are a little odd. And I havent found much info on altering. I know there was a guy on here that was Rally racing one. And he had some info. Anyone recall that? He had the mounts rip out very quickly & ended up with a DNF.I'm just trying to gather a little info for us.
                      Last edited by nitrofarm; 11-03-2011, 08:47 PM.
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                      • #12
                        I wonder what the saturn guys do, they have similar suspension setup as the festiva

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                        • #13
                          saturns are slow...




                          lol.

                          if you want anti-squat, you need to adjust your shock valving and place higher rate springs in the rear. adjusting the position of the sway bar front bushings (both) won't do anything. you need to increase the rebound int he front and bound in the rear for the valving and if you want to do anything with the swaybar, you should preload it by moving just ONE bushing mount point on the side that wants to lift more durring launch.
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                          • #14
                            i just run coilovers that i can adjust for the situation. when i drag race i keep the backs up high to keep weight transfer as far over the front wheels as possible. on normal driving i keep the car level to keep the weight as distributed as i can.

                            im also running MK2 VW Golf springs so the ride is pretty stiff considering they are i think 250 or 300lb springs compared to stock 100 front and 78 rear i believe?
                            1992 Festiva... BP-T, Escort G5MR, no crossmember, aspire brakes, Megasquirt, Toyota COP's, coilovers and 6 puck SPEC clutch!

                            T3/T4 Turbo Power! G5MR and BP since '04!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by IdealSociety View Post
                              i just run coilovers that i can adjust for the situation. when i drag race i keep the backs up high to keep weight transfer as far over the front wheels as possible. on normal driving i keep the car level to keep the weight as distributed as i can.

                              im also running MK2 VW Golf springs so the ride is pretty stiff considering they are i think 250 or 300lb springs compared to stock 100 front and 78 rear i believe?
                              Thanks for the input.Can you share some pics.Or point me towards your build. Adjustable Coilovers are really the best way to go on any serious road racer.
                              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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