Time to improve the suspension.

[oxbrain]

So now that I have a second vehicle, it's time to do all that suspension work I've been putting off.

The car definatly needs a new drivers side CV. I'd like to do struts/lowering springs all around, as well as replace all the bushings, and any wear parts like control arms and ball joints.

This is my list for now.
CV joint/axle $?
FMS springs $185
KYB super strut $70x4 IIRC
Control arm/ball joint $45x2
High durometer strut mounts $99
High durometer sway bar bushings $40
High durometer rear beam mount kit $64

Does anyone know the cheapest place to get axles? Should I replace both at once, or is it fine to do just one? Anything else I should have on this list? My budget is $1000.

[PaulLehr]

While your at it I would suggest doing the outer tie rod ends, and at least checking the inners. Take a look at your sway bar bushings as well

[oxbrain]

Ah, forgot about the tie rods. I will replace the outers and check the inners.

The sway bar bushings are going to be replaced with the ones from FMS.

[Safety Guy]

BTW, I did use Escort tie rod ends on Luxstiva and they work fine. They are, however, a lot cheaper than the Aspire tie rod ends. IIRC, about half the price! That'll save you some dough.

When I redo my suspension, I'm going to put in new Festiva KYBs in front, to go with the new Aspire KYBs I already put in the rear. I'm thinking about the FMS Aspire sport springs, too.

Handling is pretty good now, but I'm getting spring and strut noise from the front. I think the short lengths of rubber tubing I put on the cut spring ends to "cushion" them on the strut perches slightly put the springs off center and the metal is rubbing on the metal when I go over bumps or use some significant steering input.

The FMS Aspire sport springs should take care of that, and I'll just have to find out the exact ride height after I install them.

Karl

[Silv3rBull3t]

Let me know how the installation of the huge rear beam mounts go... I'm afraid to even tackle them!!

[Safety Guy]

On both Mutt and Lux I just bolted on both axles with their Aspire brackets still attached. The Mutt needed some left side rear backing plate shims to correct the rear alignment, but Lux had no rear issues.

One thing to be careful of is possibly breaking one of the captive axle bracket nuts loose inside the body boxing. I broke the large one off on my left side and had to take apart my fuel filler tubing and use a hammer and chisel to enlarge the small vapor tube hole in the floor to get a socket in to stabilize the nut so I could remove the old axle and install the new one. Now I have some "gas smell" issues that I need to solve. I'll probably use some silicone around the rubber plate thingy that no longer fits the vapor outlet tube to that body box.

It was all a PITA. Use a lot of PB Blaster and let it soak in. You may even take apart the fuel filler lines and preemptively spray a bunch of PB or penetrating oil in that little hole to let it soak those nuts better. I plan to do that to Twinstiva when I swap gas tanks, since it will be apart anyway. I'm now paranoid of captive nuts coming loose!

I DON'T like using a hammer and chisel on my cars! :shock: Too primitive, even for me!

Karl

[oxbrain]

Oh god, those captive nuts are the reason I'm not going to use the aspire brakes I have. I broke one loose, and broke the head off the bolt on the other one.

The plan is to lift the entire car and spray everything with penetrating oil a day or two before I actually start. I waited till I had a second vehicle because I expect that I will break atleast a couple bolts.


What year/model escort tie rods? Are they just the same, or any stronger?

[Safety Guy]

I believe they were early to mid nineties tie rod ends. I think I got '93s. Most should be the same in those years. I'd stick to the '91 to '96 model years.

I doubt they are any stronger. They looked about like the Festiva ends or the Aspire ends.

Karl

[PaulLehr]

Living here in WI we have plenty of rust on everything. When I did my Aspire brake swap, I sprayed every nut and bolt on the suspension with PB Blaster twice a day for an entire week before I started. Everything came apart and went back together without a hitch. I did the same thing with the brake lines and had no problem there either.

[oxbrain]

Surprisingly we don't get much rust in western WA. It rains all the time, but almost never snows, so no road salt. I think the suspension bolts just come pre-rusty from the factory. It really is the only spot on my car with corrosion.

I just have to deal with cleaning off mold without ruining the paint.

[oxbrain]

In looking through other posts, some people are saying they needed camber bolts to keep their camber from getting too bad with the fms lowering springs. How much does the 35mm(1.3") drop throw off the camber?

Also, would a junkyard axle be worth buying, or should I stick with getting a new axle? It seems like as long as the boots are intact the cv joints last a long time.

[oxbrain]

Just ordered most of it.

I'm going to use the higher performance struts on the front, but the rear will be GR2's

The tie rod ends I will get through NAPA, since the escort ones are so cheap, and I am going to pull an axle from a junkyard car. As long as the boot is intact it shouldn't be in too bad of shape.

[oxbrain]

My order is here.


Some of the red paint on the front struts and the springs is rubbed off, no big deal though. I'm probably going to put more chips in there while installing them anyway. I'll touch it up with primer once everything is on the car.

I am going to order one escort tie rod end and one festiva tie rod end, compare them side by side, and return what I don't need. The escort ones are so much cheaper I'm suspicious of them being different.

[mattswabb]

Karl used the escort tie rod ends for the aspire swap so if your going to compare them to a festiva end they will be different. The aspire and festiva have a different taper.

[oxbrain]

ah ok, so I will need the festiva ones.

I do have most of the parts for the aspire swap, but I don't think I'm going to use them. The rear beam lost a captive nut, and the brake lines were all cut.


edit:

Well, it looks like I might have another FMS order. NAPA sells the festiva tie rods for $10 more each, and availability is about the same time frame as it would take to get them from FMS. I guess the car can sit another week.