Brakes on my bp car are alittle ???

[bobbyspider]

Heres the situation. The brakes are able to lock and work good,i can stop on a dime but the pedal is almost all the way on the floor when it builds that kind of pressure. I have bled them twice hoping a huge bubble would eventually come out but none did. I have an aspire booster and egt cyl. Any thoughts? Is my booster hooked up wrong?

Thanks, kid riddlin

[TominMO]

Has it always been this way since you swapped over the brake components? Did this problem start right after you swapped in a particular part, such as the m/c or the booster?

If not, and you used to have good results with this setup, I'm thinking it's still a bubble. Maybe you didn't get all the air out. Are you sure you know the proper procedure for bleeding brakes (don't mean to insult here)? Are there any leaks, such as the rear wheel brake cylinders?

[bobbyspider]

first: not insulted at all i hope im bleeding rite. the way i do it is have the cap off the break fluid thing, have someone in the car, keep the valve on the brakes tight have them pump like 5 times and hold down on the last pump, then i open the valve and let the fluid flow freely then tighten the valve and do it all over again untill the fluid squirts pretty far. is this correct?

second: yes this is the way it was when since i changed components but before it was fine. the shell came with a egt booster and master but when i wanted to go hydro the booster was too big and in the way so i switched it out for an aspire one. i did not bleed it imediatly (maybe this is the whole prob) i bled them 3 times now and they dont seem to be verry much better. they are somewhat better but the pedal still doesnt hit pressure till down a good ways.

[Safety Guy]

Was your Aspire booster new/rebuilt or used? I had my booster go out on my '93 auto a couple years ago so it does happen. Brakes work, but having to push hard on the pedal is disconcerting.

Karl

[georgeb]

The way you are bleeding will not remove an air pocket close to the master cylinder. Or the master cylinder was not "bench bled". Loosen the lines going into the m/c and wait until fluid drips freely then tighten. If there is still no pedal you must gravity bleed all the lines.

[FestYboy]

stop pumping Bobby, just open, push, close, lift, repeat. you MUST bench bleed the master first, then move onto the rest of the system. also, do you have the rear brakes adjusted properly? if they're too loose, you'll have excessive pedal travel.

[Movin]

You have to move the fluid through the line fast enough to push a bubble
down hill. pumping, pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders they all have to move the fluid
fast enough or the results won't be satisfactory.

Have some one step and let off hard while you check for swelling rubber hoses
and cracked caliper brackets ect. This is usually when you hear the rear
shoes squeaking back and forth because they are to loose! ^^^

[bobbyspider]

I'm not quite sure how to do the bench test thing can someone explan it please

[skimsucka]

get a speed bleeder from harbor freight like 15$ and compressor if you have best easiest way!!!

[shadetree]

This sounds to me like the booster is not getting vacumn .I put an aspire booster on my last build with a bp and i used the old stock festy booster line . It worked and looked good only to find out it was backwards and the ck valve got me .....

[bobbyspider]

get a speed bleeder from harbor freight like 15$ and compressor if you have best easiest way!!!

hmm ill have to check into that. i dont have a compressor but i can borrow one from a friend

This sounds to me like the booster is not getting vacumn .I put an aspire booster on my last build with a bp and i used the old stock festy booster line . It worked and looked good only to find out it was backwards and the ck valve got me .....

i thought about that too but havnt checked the vac lines on the booster yet

[georgeb]

Your supposed to do the bench bleed without the lines hooked up with 2 short lines and fittings that come with a new m/c but the method described in post # 5 usually suffices. There is also a way to backfill it through the ports with a syringe but you would have to get a syringe and a rubber hose. Any method that completely fills the m/c before you hook up the lines will work.