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This is the brake pedal side of the booster after it's removed from the vehicle. You'll see, around the edges, that there are "dents" which hold the two halves in place. If you look closely, there will be an arrow and the word "loosen". This is there in case you want to rebuild the assembly without forcing it apart. Our intention is not that, however.
Here the halves are split. I DIDN'T USE THE BIGGER HAMMER AND SCREWDRIVER LIKE A CHISEL, AND YOU SHOULDN'T EITHER. IT'S DANGEROUS!
The smaller hammer is my Festiva hammer. No joke. Anyway, flatten out the dents that hold the two halves together however you like, then gently pry the halves apart. Careful, don't be surprised when the big spring forces them apart as soon as the rubber breaks it's seal on the metal.
Locate this clip and push it out with your non-chisel screwdriver. It's just got a spring clip holding it in, you can almost push it out with your fingers.
Once you've pulled that clip back, stick your non-chisel screwdriver into the brake pedal pin hole and pull. That's the part you need for the manual brake mod. Remove the push-in retaining ring, the two foams and the felt. When you get those off, flip it over and notice the swiveling part at the bottom. You'll see that it's been swaged onto the ball end. Drill out the swage marks, being careful not to drill into the ball end or shaft. Nicks are OK. Once that swivel end is off, remove the remaining springs and rubber seal.
The rest of the disassembly pics:
Pictured here is the piece you need to be working on. Also, note the swage on the right side of the rod. It's a little dent in the swivel end. There are 3 total.
Exploded view. This is about as far apart as you can get it without damaging anything thus far.
When all's said and done, this is what you should be left with. This piece will attach to the brake pedal and slide into the back of the master cylinder to actuate the piston. You may need to smooth the shaft down (remove the ring) with a grinder, I haven't test fitted it to a loose M/C yet.
You'll still need to make an adapter plate with the pattern for the firewall as well as the M/C pattern, which I'll measure and update this thread. The thickness of the adapter plate is yet to be determined, I'll handle that part when I get around to actually swapping my booster for the plate, because I'll have time to measure it up then for the thickness I need.
Here the halves are split. I DIDN'T USE THE BIGGER HAMMER AND SCREWDRIVER LIKE A CHISEL, AND YOU SHOULDN'T EITHER. IT'S DANGEROUS!
The smaller hammer is my Festiva hammer. No joke. Anyway, flatten out the dents that hold the two halves together however you like, then gently pry the halves apart. Careful, don't be surprised when the big spring forces them apart as soon as the rubber breaks it's seal on the metal.Locate this clip and push it out with your non-chisel screwdriver. It's just got a spring clip holding it in, you can almost push it out with your fingers.
Once you've pulled that clip back, stick your non-chisel screwdriver into the brake pedal pin hole and pull. That's the part you need for the manual brake mod. Remove the push-in retaining ring, the two foams and the felt. When you get those off, flip it over and notice the swiveling part at the bottom. You'll see that it's been swaged onto the ball end. Drill out the swage marks, being careful not to drill into the ball end or shaft. Nicks are OK. Once that swivel end is off, remove the remaining springs and rubber seal.
The rest of the disassembly pics:
Pictured here is the piece you need to be working on. Also, note the swage on the right side of the rod. It's a little dent in the swivel end. There are 3 total.
Exploded view. This is about as far apart as you can get it without damaging anything thus far.
When all's said and done, this is what you should be left with. This piece will attach to the brake pedal and slide into the back of the master cylinder to actuate the piston. You may need to smooth the shaft down (remove the ring) with a grinder, I haven't test fitted it to a loose M/C yet.
You'll still need to make an adapter plate with the pattern for the firewall as well as the M/C pattern, which I'll measure and update this thread. The thickness of the adapter plate is yet to be determined, I'll handle that part when I get around to actually swapping my booster for the plate, because I'll have time to measure it up then for the thickness I need.
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