Home depot rear strut bar, and hatch cross bar.

[scitzz]

I think Casper had a similar mod as well.

[BUSTIVA]

I need that!!! :eeeeeek: Super Jelly! :p

[BUSTIVA]

Finally got to try out the bars, along with the rear beam threaded rod mod. I absolutely love the way it handles now. I little tail happy, but that's how I like it. I can really throw the car around and have amazing control with left foot braking. I really can't say it enough, its perfect for my driving preference.

[Advancedynamix]

I would just unbolt those hooks that hold the rear seat back and bolt a bar in there and then triangulate from there to the rear lower seat belt mounting points. I just made a crossbar that goes across the B pillars in my car. It bolts where the manual seatbelts would (mine came with the auto ones, but I tossed all the rails and junk). This was mostly to use as a harness bar and I didn't notice any handling advantages from it. If there was a torsional twist problem in these cars this bar would definitely make a difference, it's 1.75" .090" wall 4130 chromoly and it was annealed after being tig welded. It bolts in 4 places with grade 12 hardware. It's stiff to say the least.
Here are a few pictures I took while I was making the bar. It's now powdercoated satin black and my harnesses are wrapped around it. It also works good as a camera mount.



I ran a tight string across many points of the car and monitored the strings with cameras where they crossed and pushed the limits of the car on a skid pad to monitor chassis flex (before making my harness bar). These cars have very little chassis flex, even with R compound rubber.

[zoom zoom]

What about putting a mild strut/dampener between the strut towers so it will still flex, but keep pressure against flex to keep things stiff? Something like a washing machine dampener.

[BUSTIVA]

If you could position them on tangent with the shock mount pivot fulcrum then yes, this would do the trick. Lol

I was actually thinking about ditching both current bars in favor of running a x bar from the hatch mount to the oppisite side strut mount. The conduit should have enough give to not bind the suspension, and each stut would have its own idependent bar, instead of being tied together...

[scitzz]

I have had two ideas along these lines. One was to go forward of the rear strut tower, and up a few inches, tie into the body there, and then run to the floor pretty much in the center. Then, straight across.

The other was to reinforce the support rails along the bottom of the car, and put an X between them.

I am curious how this one will turn out!

[Advancedynamix]

In the case that this is in fact the situation, and keeping with the HD 'sponsorship,' would gate hinges help to resolve the issue with the rear strut bar (i.e., one at either end, mounted to the bar and strut tower)?

If you could position them on tangent with the shock mount pivot fulcrum then yes, this would do the trick. Lol

[DriverOne]

My comments were concerning the fact that he has essentially braced a suspension pivot point to make it solid. This usually causes damage to components.

In the case that this is in fact the situation, and keeping with the HD 'sponsorship,' would gate hinges help to resolve the issue with the rear strut bar (i.e., one at either end, mounted to the bar and strut tower)?

[Advancedynamix]

Is the flex higher up a better idea overall than at the bottom of the car? Let's say you tore off the rear bumper to add a oem cover from something else and just used what was lying around. There is still metal tying it together but it's lighter and I can't pull a trailer anymore Doesnt matter, or just addressing the travel of the shocks in the back? YES bind of anykind is bad if it snaps another direction and you aren't ready for it. I've had front binding suspension from bad shock bearing and its like you are driving in a crosswind, not pleasant at all.

The stock festiva shell is extremely rigid for it's weight. And will handle the traction available from any tire that will fit in it's arches with ease.
Bustiva may be trying to reinforce the rear of the car because of the rigidity that was lost when the fenders were compromised. He is also running wider stance than what a stock festiva can handle, which puts more strain on the body of the car. He is charting fairly new territory in this aspect, so it will take trial and error. I have been down this road before with very similar cars ( my learning curve was on a 1981 scirocco s track car that was widened with a zender wide body). My comments were concerning the fact that he has essentially braced a suspension pivot point to make it solid. This usually causes damage to components, but I most definitely could be wrong. Trying to be helpful in the search for the best cornering setup.

[getnpsi]

Is the flex higher up a better idea overall than at the bottom of the car? Let's say you tore off the rear bumper to add a oem cover from something else and just used what was lying around. There is still metal tying it together but it's lighter and I can't pull a trailer anymore Doesnt matter, or just addressing the travel of the shocks in the back? YES bind of anykind is bad if it snaps another direction and you aren't ready for it. I've had front binding suspension from bad shock bearing and its like you are driving in a crosswind, not pleasant at all.

[Advancedynamix]

The insulation that they sell at HD that looks like bubble wrap with tin foil on it works good as an ultra light weight sound deadener for under carpet and above headliner. I think it's made to go around ducts and water heaters.

[Grey Vw]

HDR has amazing naturally aspirated intakes and earth grounding kits as well that are definitely worth looking into if you like cheap and pack-a-punch mods! I've also used roofing repair product as soundproofing before in wheel wells, and the same for polyester blanket stuffing in body panels. Lawn edging seems popular for lips and such, but that ain't quite my speed. There's definitely a ton of fun to be had if you know where to look and what to build!

I didn't know about the sound proofing. Thanks

[BUSTIVA]

I learned to left foot brake years ago with my wrx on dirt roads. And have been using it in the festiva as well, really works great in the festiva for tighter corners. I need to recheck my toe though, its been a while. Thanks for the tips!

[Advancedynamix]

My suspension is very stiff and porportionally dampened, I really only have about 1 1/2-2in of suspension travel. I have metal tophats, and the bar is sandwhiched between a first nut that holds the strut to the tophats, and a second nut that tightens the bar down, and acts as a lock nut. I doubt there is any signicant movement with the way everything is mounted. But duely noted sir.

The rear feels alot stiffer, no squeaks, or rattles at all.

I plan to do the thread rod mod as well, I want the car to rotate a little more willingly. There is a hint of push/understeer. And I want a more nuetral/slightly rotational feel.

Car feels amazing in long sweepers, but meh in tighter autox situations.

Yeah, these cars love high speed corners (go figure?). You can always learn to left foot brake, it will allow you to rotate on command without sacrificing high speed stability (personally I'd rather push a little on the parking lot track than spin off at 100+).
The shocks pivot more drastically as the car gets lower, so even 1.5" of travel will equate to several degrees per side of shock angle change. I keep a close eye on all of this. The binding will help you rotate, but it's very hard on shocks. Give that setup a few thousand hard miles and you'll see what I mean. The conduit may have enough flex though to save your shocks though.
What are you running for toe? These cars love toe out in the front, but it'll be hell with your wheels (low offset wheels feel "grabby" with toe out). I run 3/16" toe out on tight tracks. If you run your rear about 1/8" toe out you'll also notice the car will rotate easier, but without sacrificing traction. Hope this helps. Properly set up, a festiva will out handle just about any Miata.