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  • Festiva control arm question

    Hi guys,
    Im preparing to do my kia rio brake swap on my 121.
    Does anybody know how much torque/force should be applied when tightening the control arm to the car body?
    I need to remove it to replace the bushes.

    The reason im asking this is that a month or two ago i removed the control arm whilst changing a drive shaft. When putting the control arm back on I noticed that I didnt have to tighten too much before i began to bend the sheet metal on the outer hole that the control arm bolt goes through.
    I then removed the bolt and used some loctite to put the bolt back without over tightening.

    Can anybody clarify either a torque setting or whether the loctite way is fine?

    moz
    1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

  • #2
    Festiva control arm question

    Just think of it this way, if that bolt falls out, you lose control of your steering

    I don't know the torque specs (arty probably would lol) but I'd make sure it's tight as hell

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #3
      Moz, if I were you I'd post a picture of that sheet metal deformation. It doesn't sound right to me.

      Karl
      '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
      '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
      '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
      '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
      '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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      • #4
        Re: Festiva control arm question

        Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
        Moz, if I were you I'd post a picture of that sheet metal deformation. It doesn't sound right to me.

        Karl
        I'll get one up when I start doing the swap.
        The metal isn't deformed. It was pulling in towards the female thread though. I stopped tightening before any deformation took place.

        I did notice that when I removed the bolt, it wasn't as tight as I expected. It did have thread locker on it though.
        1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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