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Spring swap from Aspire to Festy

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  • Spring swap from Aspire to Festy

    Very soon I am going to be installing Aspire springs on my already Aspire-swapped Festy. It currently (for two years now) has a set of Roger's FMS "Aspire sport springs" for which I have developed no affection (and please don't call me about buying these as numerous other members have already expressed an interest in taking them) since they are too low and too stiff, for my liking.
    My question is: how many coils do I have to cut off in order to retain OEM-stock Festy height? From what I've read on here is seems like 1 to 1 1/2 is about right. I'd really like to get this over with in one shot and not have to experiment and I hate the thought of having done (cut off) too much. The Aspire springs I have are in nice shape and look to be nearly (replacement) new. If I don't get straight answers I will install these springs 'as is' since it will avoid my having to carefully use a grinder so as not to lose the 'temper' of the spring steel.
    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    I'm pretty sure I only cut 1 coil on both my Aspire spring swaps. Since your coils are nice looking and perhaps fairly newish, I'd stick to that, but consider cutting only one-half coil in the rear. Both my swaps rub on bumps with 175/70-13 tires. I think it's the outer tire tread hitting the fender edge.

    The guy I had cut my first springs used a cutoff wheel, and that's what I used when I cut my own second set.

    Finally, I really recommend Kia Rio front struts and mounts. BIG difference from old, cheap Aspire parts. You will like! Rio strut mounts have a REAL strut bearing, not just a plastic flat washer/bearing. Huge upgrade that makes for easier steering. Used Rio parts in good shape should do well, and would be better than NEW Aspire parts in those spots. Match Rio struts with Rio strut mounts though. No combining with Aspire parts since the strut mount hole for the strut piston top is different shape and size.

    I'd only use Aspire struts and mounts if they are in good shape and you don't have the money for Rio parts.

    Karl
    Last edited by Safety Guy; 03-09-2013, 09:48 AM.
    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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    • #3
      Thanks Safety Guy. I can already attest to the marked improvement of steering with install of Rio top hats. I put those (brand new ones too!) on 2 years ago. The Aspire springs (I'm only doing the rears at the moment) are of two versions. One set has 0.370 inch diameter wire and 8 coils from end to end, and other set are 0.375 inch and 7 1/2 coils. I'm going to be cautious with all of this and start with a one coil cut via cutting wheel on a grinder. I don't want to lose the spring temper.
      I had tire rubbing (175/70-13s on VW alloys), just like you, until I devoted an entire day to better centering the trailing arm on the body of the car. It was off center by about 3/16 initially and one tire was routinely rubbing on the wheel well lip whereas the other wheel had lots of clearance. There is one locator pin on the car body (passenger side) that fits into the trailing arm and that had to be shifted (ie the hole in the trailing arm) and the body mount bolt holes had to be elongated horizontally. Worked like a charm though and all rubbing has ceased.

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      • #4
        I would tend to agree about using Rio front hubs and brakes but I purchased two complete Aspires during the past 2 years and I'll be darned if I start looking around for Rios after all that. Aspire fixins on their own have made a radical improvement towards serviceability and durability over OEM Festy brakes.

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        • #5
          Re: Spring swap from Aspire to Festy

          You need to bend the top coil down where you cut it to flatten it out.
          91GL BP/F3A with boost
          13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bhazard View Post
            You need to bend the top coil down where you cut it to flatten it out.
            I'm hoping that the 'become non-flat' can be used at the spring perch location. Failing that, my buddy is a professional welder and if he figures the end piece of a spring can be bent using localized heat then maybe I'll try that.

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