Aspire swap help!!!

[sickfleming]

Sorry, but I figured this would be faster than just asking on my build thread. I'm removing the rusty stock feisty trailing arm and I need help with the pivot bolt. The nuts came off okay with some force, oddly enough, and the right side pivot bolt came loose with a bit of oomph with my 17mm open end wrench. However, the the other one is completely stuck. The annoying thing is that its a square head bolt with a raised section next to it which i assume holds it in place. I soaked quite a bit and let it sit overnight, put the nut back on it and tried to tap (later, pound) it out and everything, but it just won't move. Is there a better method? I need to have this done tonight and this is the last thing I'm stuck on. Thanks!

[Safety Guy]

It sounds like you are taking apart the axle mounts in order to remove the rear axle. If you just take off the three mount to body bolts the whole thing comes off and the Aspire mounts go on directly.

Unless you are wanting to put new bushings in the mount, just remove the whole thing. The whole axle assembly, with mounts, swaps out Festiva for Aspire. Easy. Just use a lot of PB Blaster in case of stuck bolts. If an axle mount bolt breaks you'll have to find or make a hole in the inside to get to the captive nut for removal.

Here's page 2 of Aqua's build thread. Look for the picture of my entire Aspire rear axle assembly sitting on my porch table. Note the mounts still attached. No need to take them off as they bolt right on the Festiva. It's the sixth pic down:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?31934-AquaMutt-build-thread/page2&highlight=aquamutt+build

Good luck and I hope I answered your question.

Karl

[sickfleming]

Yeah ya did lol. I would just remove the brackets but I'd have to go to the junkyard, which is about an hour or so away with traffic. But I did remove the passenger side bracket and cleaned it up. The bolt came out with a good smack from a sledge. However, that darn strut mount bolt seized in and I had to drill it out. Upon doing so, I noticed my strut had VERY little pressure and was pretty much shot. So now I'm looking for some rear struts and hopefully springs.

If I happen to find a junkyard with an Aspire (fat chance), I'll grab the struts and springs if they look okay. Realistically, I'm probably going to just order some Monroe Sensa Tracs from Advance Auto. I've also heard of some folks putting Aspire struts with stock Festiva springs, so I'm most likely going to try that. The downside to that is that they take 3 to 4 days to arrive. Anyway, thanks for the input.

[sickfleming]

By the way, do you happen to know the specs of a Festiva or Aspire (i assume they're the same) rear strut mounting bolt and where to find them so I can replace the one I drilled out?

[standard235]

M10x1.25x45mm I think. Go to the auto store with one and they should be able to match it up pretty close.

[M3NTAL]

I just got my new studs in. Going to be pressed in m12x1.5 50mm

[sickfleming]

Okay, looks like the struts are going to be here tomorrow morning instead of three days from now lol. I'm going with aspire spec Monroe sensa tracs with Festiva springs on the rear and 175/65/14 tires. I'm not sure if I'll need a spacer or not.

[Bert]

Festy springs will be OK for now but if you can get hold of a set of Aspire rears that would do you better. Make sure you use brake slider grease (or any grease) to thoroughly lubricate the shock absorber bolts so that next time around they will readily come out. If ever you get the chance try to grab a set of Aspire body mounts. They are sturdier (thicker steel) and lower the trailing arm attachment point by about 1/2 inch (ie much easier to get the pivot bolts in and out).
Aspire springs will raise the car about 1/2 inch and I suspect if you were to take off 1/2 a coil (haven't done this myself) you ought to wind up pretty close to stock. You have to remember that whenever you cut off a coil the ride stiffness will increase simply because there are fewer coils left to uniformly compress. Up until recently I had FMS Aspire sport springs on my car and they were way too stiff and dropped the car much lower than I was comfortable with.

[sickfleming]

Well the struts came in today, just like they said. Seem to be the exact fit and, believe it or not, I found two strut mount bolts that fit perfectly. The bolts from the Festiva did not fit that well. Either it's from being old and slightly rusted and balding on the end or it's just a different size. Either way, a noteworthy mention.

Another thing I would like to mention are the "fins" where the trailing arm bolts up to the hinges. I assume they keep the arm from dropping down too far but they look like they're going to get in the way, since they're is a hole for it to pass through on the bracket but not the arm.
I've seen a thread mentioning these "fins" but I cannot seem to find it now.

Anyway, I assume they have to go if I want a correct fit huh?

[sickfleming]

Festy springs will be OK for now but if you can get hold of a set of Aspire rears that would do you better. Make sure you use brake slider grease (or any grease) to thoroughly lubricate the shock absorber bolts so that next time around they will readily come out. If ever you get the chance try to grab a set of Aspire body mounts. They are sturdier (thicker steel) and lower the trailing arm attachment point by about 1/2 inch (ie much easier to get the pivot bolts in and out).
Aspire springs will raise the car about 1/2 inch and I suspect if you were to take off 1/2 a coil (haven't done this myself) you ought to wind up pretty close to stock. You have to remember that whenever you cut off a coil the ride stiffness will increase simply because there are fewer coils left to uniformly compress. Up until recently I had FMS Aspire sport springs on my car and they were way too stiff and dropped the car much lower than I was comfortable with.

I normally don't mix and match like this as much, but it seemed safe and relatively promising. I'm just planning on taking my time to order some springs or those FMS springs I've been hearing so much about, although I haven't seen that guy's website up in quite a while. I'll probably just look on ebay along with some strut boots (I couldn't afford them this time around) in the near future.

[sickfleming]

Before I call it a night, I should just say that a bit was done today, but not really lol. I got the struts installed, then the trailing arm, but maaan is it hard to raise the trailing arm and get those struts and bolts to line up... Basically, I feel it would be somewhat "easier" to take the struts back off, mount them on the arm, then try to line up the struts. Only problem is that I have one set of spring compressors. Maybe I can switch them off

[Chobobulous]

I attached the struts to the trailing arm then used the weight of the car to compress the springs.... if that makes sense.

[sickfleming]

I attached the struts to the trailing arm then used the weight of the car to compress the springs.... if that makes sense.

I don't trust my jack enough for that lol

[Bert]

I attached the struts to the trailing arm then used the weight of the car to compress the springs.... if that makes sense.

This method works like a charm. Get a couple of 8-10 inch lengths of 1/2" metal pipe (plumbing copper will do) and set them over the shock rods and through the towers from inside the car. Then as you drop the car down gently the shock rods will automatically line up and go into the pockets. Soon as the threads are showing you can pull off the pipe and install the washers and nuts. Simple as pie and no spring compressors required.

[sickfleming]

This method works like a charm. Get a couple of 8-10 inch lengths of 1/2" metal pipe (plumbing copper will do) and set them over the shock rods and through the towers from inside the car. Then as you drop the car down gently the shock rods will automatically line up and go into the pockets. Soon as the threads are showing you can pull off the pipe and install the washers and nuts. Simple as pie and no spring compressors required.

I would like to try that when I get a new jack.
Mine lowers if you don't pump it constantly, so it could get a bit dangerous