The new wheels I got are not specifically for this car, I'm ordering hub rings soon, I need 72.X mm to 56.1mm spacers. Another thing that I'd like to get an opinion on is the bolt/stud hole size in the rims. The hole for each of the four bolts are a little over 15mm, our bolts are 12mm. Should I find/make some spacers to add a shoulder to the wheel bolts and take out the slop, or will it be fine? The holes are cone tapered for our bolts, that's the only thing keeping them on and centered right now! I know that has to put alot of dynamic stress on those shanks. What do you guys think, get the hub rings and call it a good job, or try to make my own spacers...or is there a place I could order some instead of fabbing my own? I've never heard of such a thing. I didn't measure the thickness but eyeballing it I need roughly a 3/8" long spacer to fill the void from the cone taper to the hub. These rims look really good and I can't take them off so I'm just riding on them until one falls off or I get the spacers and everything I need to make it right! These are polished aluminum and I really like them and want to make them work.
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Wheel tech question, need advice!
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Wheel tech question, need advice!
2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"Tags: None
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You need longer bolts first of all. I showed you the picture of the bolts I used and they were longer than stock. I would think, The conical lug bolts should locate that wheel enough to keep it steady on a car that light with 4 bolts per wheel on the street. The short thread engagement of the bolts you have not could be a huge part of the problem. I'd keep it off the roads until you get longer bolts or atleast be very cautious.
Search hubcentric spacer on google to get an idea of what they are, what they do and if they are available in the size you're looking for. You'll need some presicion measuring equipment to get the best fit between the hub bore of the wheel and the OD of the hub on the car.
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Matt, 610-367 Dorman @ O'Reily's they always stock 10.A set of 16 is $50.00. They have the same deg countersink as the Mazda and are @ 10 mm longer than stock. And the "Head" is the larger size you want also. And you dont need any centering ring doodad the bolts center the wheel fine. Go into O'Reily's and ask to test fit one of these.PS thanks for the axle hookup!Last edited by nitrofarm; 06-01-2013, 07:23 AM.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
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I like the secure feeling of having hubcentric rings, instead of just lugs centering the wheel/rim.
Besides...it makes putting the wheel on a lot easier!
Its not like they cost and arm and a leg, pretty cheap. I have metal hubcentric rings, not the cheap plastic rings.Last edited by drddan; 06-01-2013, 11:16 AM.Dan
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Matt, you won't ned to sleeve the wheel bolts, the larger 15mm hole is fine as long as your bolt/wheel interface is over 1/8" per fastener. This can be increased with a larger major diameter on the taper part of your fastener.
Hubcentric rings make mounting easier for sure and do help stabilize the wheel in the case of 2 or more broken fasteners, but they are not necessary and quality wheel fasteners (lug bolts or studs/nuts) are rated far in excess of the load your car will place on them.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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All good stuff, the pic of the bolts you sent me laughing was only 1/4" longer than stock, I tossed a couple aspire bolts in, they're almost as long basically splitting the difference, I don't think my bolts are a problem.
I suppose ill just order some hub rings and call it a good job, the cheap plastiv ones are less than 10$ shipped I can't remember if stock centerbore is 54 or 56 .1 mm offhand, I put a digi caliper on the wheel centerbore yesterday and its 72.6. Either way its less than 10$ shipped...if something happens to the cheap .plastic ones ill order some nice metal spacers, I gotta keep the weight down because racecar.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostI can't remember if stock centerbore is 54 or 56 .1 mm offhand...Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
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Matt, I kinda regret buying plastic hub rings for my Estrellas. They tend to break easily and stick to the hub when pulling the wheel after a few months. PITA prying them off with my pocketknife being late for work, at night, in the cold and snow! Had to put snows on front just to get out of the yard to go to work! Late about an hour. Not bad actually. Put the rear snows on the next day.
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