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Aspire swap
guys I have a. festiva and just got ahold of a aspire for parts about 2hrs from my house. can someone give me a list if tools that I will need to take out the front knuckles and everything and rear arm and ebrake etc. i thank you in advance for this information. FESTIVA FOR LIFE
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needle nosed pliers, 14mm socket and wrench, 17mm socket and wrench, 29mm socket and breaker bar (long), unless you have air available to you in which case, use an impact gun, 12mm socket and wrench, 10mm line wrench, 19mm box wrench, long prybar and a BFH.
that's it to do the front and rear assuming that you are not dissasembling the drums or removing the rear struts.Last edited by FestYboy; 11-20-2013, 04:50 PM.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Arty sleeps beside his repair manual
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?Comment
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Arty IS a repair manual!90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
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I strongly suspect that Festyboy has done this job many more times than I have (which is only twice) but I also happen to live in the rust belt.
Take every tool you own with you. It's inevitable that something won't co-operate, or it starts to rain, hail or snow. And that's when torches/sawzall/or cutting wheels really cut down on the work and the effort. Just buzz through the material at the end of the steering rack (inner tie rods) rather than try to separate the outer tie rods (because you'll want to keep those), drop the struts via undoing them from up top (2 nuts each side, and not the center nut), and leave the shocks attached to the trailing arm at the back too (the shock attach bolt is usually seized at that location) by undoing them from inside the car. But do hang on to (as in 'keep') the rear springs for later re-use. Driveaxle nuts often don't readily come loose either and Aspire axles are no good to you anyway so don't bother with them and merely cut right through them close to the knuckle. Hang on to all the brake hoses as best you can (snip off the metal feeder lines instead of cutting the hoses). The Aspire pivot brackets at the rear of the car are sturdier and mount lower than Festy ones so are well worth grabbing. If you can get those 3 bolts loose on each side then there is no need to remove the trailing arm pivot bolt. Some folks here have no use for Aspire sway bars but I sure appreciate the ones I have and if you can grab that while you're at it, great. Take off the cover plates; no need to undo the sway bar base plates at the rad support since they will not bolt on to a Festy anyway.
Ideally you'll also want to carefully excise the entire emergency brake cable arrangement too. Undo the cable at the handbrake and slit the carpet close to the backseat so as to be able to get the cable and sheath out from the 'whatever you want to call it' directional thing that is attached to the floor.
If the Aspire happens to be a 3 door you might as well try liberating the gas tank while you're at it.
And: Good luck!Last edited by Bert; 11-20-2013, 10:38 PM.Comment
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