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My Rio/Aspire Suspension Upgrade

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  • #16
    Originally posted by 1990new View Post
    I need some advice on alignment after the Aspire rear and Rio Front swap.

    1. The rear brackets that mount to the body have holes slightly larger than the bolts. Is that how the rear alignment is adjusted?
    2. What specks are used Rio, Festiva, Aspire?
    Others will chime in but from what I've seen those holes allow you to center the beam Left to Right. The only way you can adjust Toe in the rear is with a shim under the rear spindles. And as far as front end toe,its a matter of preference. If mileage is your goal, no toe at all. If you want more steering, toe out. I never run toe in even on my wifes car (which I have set at zero). But for the record Toe really effects the mileage on these little engines. Im running toe out with snow tires and my mileage sucks. But I love the way the car handles in the snow. Its all personal preference
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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    • #17
      Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
      Others will chime in but from what I've seen those holes allow you to center the beam Left to Right. The only way you can adjust Toe in the rear is with a shim under the rear spindles. And as far as front end toe,its a matter of preference. If mileage is your goal, no toe at all. If you want more steering, toe out. I never run toe in even on my wifes car (which I have set at zero). But for the record Toe really effects the mileage on these little engines. Im running toe out with snow tires and my mileage sucks. But I love the way the car handles in the snow. Its all personal preference
      Thanks nitro, I think I'll go with the zero toe as well. This vehicle will be driven very little at highway speeds and is automatic so any help with mpg is welcomed. Don't have to worry about snow though.
      Glad I did this conversion, steering with the Rio struts is remarkably improved and the improved braking is also noticeable.

      Now I have a set of good set of front Festiva struts and rear shocks with springs that I guess I'll take back for the $6 each core refund unless someone needs them. But with all the suspension swapping
      going on, I doubt if they do.

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      • #18


        I have finished my upgrade and am pleased with the finished product. For now, I did the string alignment it is driving great. I'll get it professionally aligned before I take it on a road trip.
        I added a few more pictures to the photobucket album. The link is in the first post in this thread.
        I've been driving Festivas since 1990 and I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone who is considering it.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          I put the new Kia tie rod ends on Trixie today and now I'm ready to get a professional alignment but I'm concerned about the fact that the positive camber looks too extreme.
          So I've decided to cut a coil out of the springs and would like to do it without removing them if possible.

          Has any cut the springs with a 4" angle grinder while the strut is still installed on the car? I have spring compression tools.
          Last edited by 1990new; 12-26-2014, 05:48 PM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 1990new View Post
            I put the new Kia tie rod ends on Trixie today and now I'm ready to get a professional alignment but I'm concerned about the fact that the positive camber looks too extreme.
            So I've decided to cut a coil out of the springs and would like to do it without removing them if possible.

            Has any cut the springs with a 4" angle grinder while the strut is still installed on the car? I have spring compression tools.
            So you did a rio swap, used rio outer tie rods, Rio lca? And right now your car is sitting a little too high and your tires are pointing one way or the other. Which part of the spring do you plan on cutting, the top or the bottom part, and how do you get it to sit right when either the top or bottom part is no longer flat.

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            • #21
              FWIW I've cut springs in place on a Honda this way, compress the spring and chop away. Just make sure that you don't cut into the next coil or the strut. And cut more than once or you'll have a loose coil stuck around the strut and have all kinds of fun trying to cut it apart afterwards. You also end up with springs that won't sit in the perch properly, and every time the car is lifted for maintenance you have to make sure they seat properly. All this to say there is some value in a proper spring setup if you care about any of this.
              Yellow - '91 Festiva L - 5 speed

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              • #22
                Originally posted by burundon View Post
                FWIW I've cut springs in place on a Honda this way, compress the spring and chop away. Just make sure that you don't cut into the next coil or the strut. And cut more than once or you'll have a loose coil stuck around the strut and have all kinds of fun trying to cut it apart afterwards. You also end up with springs that won't sit in the perch properly, and every time the car is lifted for maintenance you have to make sure they seat properly. All this to say there is some value in a proper spring setup if you care about any of this.
                I ended up taking the struts off the car and removing the springs. I figured it would be easier to do it that way then trying to work under the fender and then get the springs seated back correctly.


                Originally posted by bhearts View Post
                So you did a rio swap, used rio outer tie rods, Rio lca? And right now your car is sitting a little too high and your tires are pointing one way or the other. Which part of the spring do you plan on cutting, the top or the bottom part, and how do you get it to sit right when either the top or bottom part is no longer flat.
                Following the general wisdom about this that I found here, I cut the spring at the bottom. I put a short piece of hose (that i removed from an old dishwasher that ran from the inlet valve up the side) over about 2 inches of the spring ends where I cut. I cut one complete coil using my new dremel. Yes the geometry of the strut did change some and that is a good thing because it did reduced some of the positive camber. I did a test drive after I finished and is does ride and handle better with that one coil cut out.
                I will see how much off the positive camber is when I have it aligned. Hopefully it will not be too much. From what I have read there should be a little positive camber. It may also have changed the caster a little but I don't think that will be much of a problem. One thing I did notice on the test drive is a little bearing noise on the left when I turned sharply to the right. I'll probably end up putting new bearing on that side. There is no indication of any problem with the right side wheel bearing though.
                Last edited by 1990new; 12-27-2014, 07:13 PM. Reason: Add Picture

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                • #23
                  NEW, All you have to do is park the car on flat concrete and put a large object up against the wheel. I have a large 90 deg carpenter square that I use. But you can use a large pail,anything that will sit flat on the ground.And will touch the bottom and top of the tire.Obviously your looking for a little day light in between the square & the top edge of tire.You don't want any positive camber at normal ride height (dont know where you heard that). To adjust your positive camber out.Simply grind your top strut bolt hole (Strut not Spindle) with a slot that allows you to tip the spindle inboard.
                  Don't get your toe set by a pro until you get your Camber set,waste of money....
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                    NEW, All you have to do is park the car on flat concrete and put a large object up against the wheel. I have a large 90 deg carpenter square that I use. But you can use a large pail,anything that will sit flat on the ground.And will touch the bottom and top of the tire.Obviously your looking for a little day light in between the square & the top edge of tire.You don't want any positive camber at normal ride height (dont know where you heard that). To adjust your positive camber out.Simply grind your top strut bolt hole (Strut not Spindle) with a slot that allows you to tip the spindle inboard.
                    Don't get your toe set by a pro until you get your Camber set,waste of money....
                    Thanks for the alert on this.. Your comment triggered me to do some more reading on the alignment subject. After more reading I have come to the conclusion that there is not way to be sure of a perfect
                    alignment after suspension mods like these are made. Alignment is done at static but the mods alter the dynamic characteristics too. I will have to try to find a level place to do the camber check. I'm sure my driveway is not perfectly level. I put a level top to bottom across the front tires and they appear to be only a fraction off from level. Here is a link that I found helpful in explaining alignment.
                    http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/145

                    I check the autozone specs for the 02 Kia Rio and the camber shows .45 to .60+
                    The camber specs in my Festiva manual show camber should be .40 to .55 not greater than .55+

                    I'll find a good level spot and do as you suggest before I take it in... Thanks.
                    Last edited by 1990new; 12-27-2014, 08:28 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Found these today at LKQ on their half price sale day. After I get them cleaned up I will be putting them on Trixie.

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                      • #26
                        One down ... three to go. Getting the old baked on brake dust off was a lot of work but it sure does improve the looks.
                        I put a good coat of wax on it too.

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                        • #27
                          Got the new Miata wheels and tires installed on Trixie.
                          Only trouble is the lug bolts are more exposed and they don't look so good. I'm going to take them out and spray them with aluminum paint.
                          Anyone have a better idea.
                          Now I a perfectly good set of 175/65 R14 tires and wheels that I don't need. 2 on Escort alloy wheels and 2 on Kia alloy wheels. All in great shape.
                          Last edited by 1990new; 01-04-2015, 01:04 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Ok, I know this is an old thread, but how do you like the Rio front suspension? What wheel alignment specs did you end up going with?

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                              Ok, I know this is an old thread, but how do you like the Rio front suspension? What wheel alignment specs did you end up going with?
                              Camber got much better after I cut one ring off the Rio Springs.

                              No idea about specs. Took it to nearby TreadQuarters for alignment and they said they did the best they could do to get it straight with my modifications. Going on close to two years now and the tires seem to be wearing evenly. It rides much better with about 600 pounds in it, otherwise it rides like a go cart.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by 1990new View Post
                                Camber got much better after I cut one ring off the Rio Springs.

                                No idea about specs. Took it to nearby TreadQuarters for alignment and they said they did the best they could do to get it straight with my modifications. Going on close to two years now and the tires seem to be wearing evenly. It rides much better with about 600 pounds in it, otherwise it rides like a go cart.
                                Ok, thanks!

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