substitutions/replacements, for gasket/cushions on top end of struts?

[bobstad]

During 2007 while installing both the FMS racing/lowering springs, as well as four KYB replacement struts, someone encouraged me to try reusing the original gasket/cushion on top of each of the struts, between them and the body work towers.

Ever since, I've experienced some noise apparently from that spot; when entering a parking lot or driveway when there's an abrupt change from the surface of the street, or similar jarring effects from other situations-which I've attributed to those used cushion/gaskets being too worn to be effective again?

with nonamekid's getting his Festiva Store going on line, this also has me wondering if he's going to perhaps be stocking such items? I'm a long ways from tearing the suspension apart, so am only able to speculate as to what that noise is; but, since having used parts already if the prices weren't too stiff for new replacements, doubtless I'd be wise to order a set to have on hand-particularly as I'm only half way through the Aspire brake sway, needing only a conducive work environment to get that finally finished.

I've also considered fabricating my own gasket/cushions, using perhaps some sort of leather of the correct thickness; or feasibly another type of material, which would be suitable? I'd hate to eventually find that the sheet metal of the towers has been damaged.

[TominMO]

If you're talking about noise from the rear, the most likely cause is the lower of the two black rubber donuts on top of the strut--i.e., under the hole in the body that the strut shaft goes up into. The lower donut is different from the upper one (which is above the body hole). The lower one is supposed to have a little center lip that protrudes up into the body hole, specifically so the shaft won't rattle against it. Those lips do get worn down. So first check to see that this is as it's supposed to be. Get new donuts if needed, or you can use a short piece of rubber hose to act as the lip. Not ideal but better than nothing.

[bobstad]

If you're talking about noise from the rear, the most likely cause is the lower of the two black rubber donuts on top of the strut--i.e., under the hole in the body that the strut shaft goes up into. The lower donut is different from the upper one (which is above the body hole). The lower one is supposed to have a little center lip that protrudes up into the body hole, specifically so the shaft won't rattle against it. Those lips do get worn down. So first check to see that this is as it's supposed to be. Get new donuts if needed, or you can use a short piece of rubber hose to act as the lip. Not ideal but better than nothing.

Thanks for answering...the sound makes this seem like in the front; though could be in the rear, is an after thought now-from trying to imagine what was actually heard? Having always presumed in the front; which could be from a quick second jolt, after the first one in the front.

I have often over the decades of my DIY car repair, followed other's advice-mostly friends far better mechanics; in leaving off replacement with new parts, things my advisers thought might last longer, though with quite a few miles already.

These always seem to be things which are incredibly inexpensive, compared to what the cost in time and effort ends up being-if I have to do a job over again; particularly since when left to my own resources, I always chose replacement of anything in question. Leading me to wonder at this sort of coaching?

In this case I have to blame the owner of FMS, rather than anyone known personally; so one notion is that people tend to respect the idea that supplies, despite what economy might dictate, are never infinite.

My worst experience to date, leaving out "case-savers" costing $15 total; spending $600 on parts & machine work overhauling a VW motor-I had to do all over again after only a hundred miles, when as usual I checked the torque on the head bolts and all were pulling out.

A person like myself totally an amateur, ends up having any variety of considerations different than someone a professional; so that I try to never do anything wholly based upon another person's advice-regardless of how skilled and experienced they may be. Which is really difficult many times, both for the amount of respect I feel for many sources; as well as the convenience of having a good source, willing to try to help.

[rmoltis]

This has been my problem on my aspire.
I am having a custom set made from elastomer spring pads made by whiteline.

They won't be exact oem copies. But since they don't exist anymore and have been discontinued by everyone.
My only option was custom made.

If the pads I got can't be machined to match. I opted for an inner and outer i.d. match and I would be happy with that.
As long as it keeps any rattles or noises from occuring.

the coil spring isolators are to help reduce noise and vibration. But as the main function they help spread the spring load more evenly.
because as the springs compress the forces exerted at top and bottom place the load more on one side.
This is unless your springs are cut at the top to have a perfectly flat surface.
what this does over time if left without the isolators. Or with old worn ones.
the spring perches can become distorted over time from the uneven forces pressing into the metal surfaces.

If your lucky I may have an extra set when I'm done.
But there is a chance it will be only 1.
All depends how things go

I'm just leaving the port of Ocho Rios jamaica.
I will check on their status when I return from my cruise.