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mk2 front only 1/4" lower? help

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  • mk2 front only 1/4" lower? help

    So i got the 1st front coilover on. It has only lowered the car 1/4 of an inch. Threads all the way in the body. At this oint in time preload is at the very bottom.

    Hoe do i get more drop from the mk2 coilovers?
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    What springs did you use?
    91GL BP/F3A with boost
    13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
      So i got the 1st front coilover on. It has only lowered the car 1/4 of an inch. Threads all the way in the body. At this oint in time preload is at the very bottom.

      How do i get more drop from the mk2 coilovers?
      Do both sides and then check. Likely the other side is holding the car up higher, giving you a false measurement on the coilover side.
      Last edited by TominMO; 12-12-2015, 10:47 AM.
      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

      Disaster preparedness

      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

      Comment


      • #4
        150 12" coils
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          Bearing in mind that the original front coils were 105#, of course there wouldn't be nearly as much drop with 150s. Have you installed the other side yet to re-check measurements?
          Last edited by TominMO; 12-12-2015, 04:31 PM.
          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
          09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

          You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

          Disaster preparedness

          Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

          Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

          Comment


          • #6
            The ebay seller i bought the rio top hats from only sent me one!!! So i have sent them a message about it. Might just go ahead and order another from a differ person and just turn it over to ebay.


            I think i should have went with 10" not 12" o well for now. Ill let the 12 stay in for a bit and see how i like it. Will order some 10's as well tho.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              Dumb question but did you bounce it and move it back and forth? These cars set high after jacking them up and need to be "settled".

              Comment


              • #8
                Good points here. Wait til it's done, then drive it a bit. Let the springs settle. They will also need to wear in a bit.
                91GL BP/F3A with boost
                13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                  The ebay seller i bought the rio top hats from only sent me one!!! So i have sent them a message about it. Might just go ahead and order another from a differ person and just turn it over to ebay.


                  I think i should have went with 10" not 12" o well for now. Ill let the 12 stay in for a bit and see how i like it. Will order some 10's as well tho.
                  The length of your springs shouldn't control your ride height. NEVER run the car with spring slop. They should be held in place by the spring adjusters with no float. Shorter springs will give you less drop and a harsher ride since the spring rate rise will be faster.
                  Softer initial spring rate will provide the drop in ride height.
                  Like others have said already though, your other side is holding the whole car up. The sway bar connects the two sides and will only let them compress independently so far. Also, the springs will settle and you'll get another half an inch of drop from that, after about 500 miles or so.
                  Also, don't use the filler coils with these springs, you shouldn't need them. With 150lb springs you should see a 2-3 inch drop from stock with a b6t and auto trans or g series trans (similar weight).
                  Last edited by Advancedynamix; 12-14-2015, 01:17 PM.
                  Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I see. I didn't think about the sway bar on there. I have my preload set so the springs are held firm in place.

                    I knew they would settle down a bit just didn't know how long or much.

                    Took my 15's off and back on my factory 12's and it seems much lower now. Will be getting 14's and letting the 15's go
                    Last edited by mikemounlio; 12-14-2015, 01:26 PM.
                    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                      The length of your springs shouldn't control your ride height. NEVER run the car with spring slop. They should be held in place by the spring adjusters with no float. Shorter springs will give you less drop and a harsher ride since the spring rate rise will be faster.
                      Softer initial spring rate will provide the drop in ride height.
                      Like others have said already though, your other side is holding the whole car up. The sway bar connects the two sides and will only let them compress independently so far. Also, the springs will settle and you'll get another half an inch of drop from that, after about 500 miles or so.
                      Also, don't use the filler coils with these springs, you shouldn't need them. With 150lb springs you should see a 2-3 inch drop from stock with a b6t and auto trans or g series trans (similar weight).
                      Not trying to jack this thread but what about the rear. With my 10 inch springs they have to be all the way up so there's no slop.
                      That's how I'm running them now with 120 springs and still get a 2 inch drop.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I just looked at the car again with a picture in hand of how it was stock. Mine did drop quite a bit. Then when i look at right vs left side i can really see how much it has dropped. With settle and the other side complete it will be low for sure. So im ok with it how it is.
                        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by william View Post
                          Not trying to jack this thread but what about the rear. With my 10 inch springs they have to be all the way up so there's no slop.
                          That's how I'm running them now with 120 springs and still get a 2 inch drop.
                          That sounds right. Cliferton designed some different top spring hats to give more adjustment. He's going to post all the CAD info for anyone who wants to make them. That will give you more adjustment if you need it. My 105lb springs are adjusted to about 3/4 of an inch from the top and That's over 3" drop with the flat style spring hats.
                          Last edited by Advancedynamix; 12-14-2015, 04:44 PM.
                          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I used the hat that came with the front. In the rear i used the part that came with the strut. It was a coil keeper. I then put the orignal keeper on top of that to hold it all in the center. Plus the stock rubber isolator. So i could use some actual rear top hats as that would really help me out. I was going to go with washers but didnt know the best way to do that.

                            If someone could post a picture and a good detail of it please that would be nice.
                            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hmmm, that's interesting. I never thought about doing that. Do you have pictures?
                              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                              Comment

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