I'm not sure what is being asked either.
Driving technique is something that is very hard to explain without demonstration.
One thing I can say is that these cars require a different driving style than what is commonly taught at performance driving school. If you drive a festiva like a RWD car it will feel as though it's pushing in corners. The trick is to maintain momentum. These cars can hold incredible amounts of speed through corners when driven correctly.
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Finding the roll center and engineering its dynamics
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Originally posted by MiltonHavoc View PostCharlie, i vote you do a section on driving technique!
How do you counteract the negative impact of crash bars on a 2dr festiva.
Im really starting to have concern about adding a little safety to street driving my festiva.^yup. Fitting intercooler and stuff? I think youll have to explain what your asking a little better to get a good answer.Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View PostWAIT... What negative impact?? The extra weight?
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Charlie, i vote you do a section on driving technique!
How do you counteract the negative impact of crash bars on a 2dr festiva.
Im really starting to have concern about adding a little safety to street driving my festiva.
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That's for the front, right? Do you know the rear?Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostFrom the lower bolt center to the register where the washer sits that holds the top mounting bushing is;
23.5" extended
16" compressed
7.5" travel.
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Aaaaand the fun is spoilt.
Between inches and feet lie a hand (4") and a span (9")
I've gotta get my mind out of the gutter and stop looking at how many "hands" are in my pants. [emoji13]
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The NRA used to be the NIA (national imperial association) back in them days.
Charlton Heston cut his teeth on making sure all American measurements are done in fractions or by irregular body parts.
Inches based on thumbs, feet based on.... Well, FEET!
I wonder which body part they would've used if they wanted an increment between inches and feet.... HMMMM.... [emoji848]
[emoji57]
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Inching.Originally posted by moz View PostYou Americans are slowly "inching" towards the metric system.
Why can't y'all be more universal!?!? [emoji12]
When I was in elementary school in the 70's, we were told the US would be converted to the metric system by the time we got out of high school. Obviously, it never happened.
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You Americans are slowly "inching" towards the metric system.
Why can't y'all be more universal!?!? [emoji12]
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From the lower bolt center to the register where the washer sits that holds the top mounting bushing is;
23.5" extended
16" compressed
7.5" travel.
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So that I have a reference for shorter, what are the dimensions of the stock equipment?
Length collapsed:
Length extended:
Total travel:
Thank you for all the help
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Look for shocks that are already shorter. That's one of the big reasons I use the VW mk1 shocks. Maybe a cheaper shock (Monroe or no name ebay shock) would have softer rebound dampening than the KYB shocks.
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Ok I don't have a lathe, so if I could avoid paying a machine shop to do it, what do you think might be the next best way to do it? Make a jig?
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Yes, a lathe will be necessary to do it the way I do. You could risk it by just cutting and welding the shafts. I like the added security of a threaded stud in between the welded pieces.Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View PostCut it below the register? Any chance you have a picture on hand? It sounds like I need a lathe...

Here I have cut the shaft to my desired length, then I threaded and chamfered the shaft.

The top part of the shaft is then threaded and chamfered to match.

The top is then attached to the shortened shaft with a threaded stud.

And tightened.

The shaft is then welded back together.
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