Dragonhealer (ghetto rear camber)

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, but make sure you know what is the vehicle centerline if the stub axle at the desired ride height. Like Dragonhealer said, as the beam rotates, the alignment changes. You must set the camber and toe for the desired beam angle. It's hard to get it right with 1 try. I've dedicated hundreds of hours to dialing in the rear on my cars.
These cars are unstable with toe out in the rear (probably why Rosie is "darty" unloaded). It is important to understand that negative camber turns into toe out as the beam droops. As the beam compresses the negative camber turns into toe in. It's best to set the car up with a hair of toe in at the desired ride height.

[TominMO]

Depending on how you rotate it, it would make both toe and camber. If the thickest part was at the bottom, it would give neg camber. With the thickest part at the rear, it would give more toe-in. So to achieve both, you would need the thick section somewhere between rear and bottom. Or use two--one with the thick part at the bottom, one at the rear.

Am I getting this right Charlie?

[Dragonhealer]

Sorry guys, busy with family visiting from back east....
yes ,the washers (and steel shims) just take the place of one of those plastic camber shims.
It's harder to do, but easier to make changes. NOTE: the camber and toe change with suspension travel !
Rosie is a little "darty"at this ride hight (stock front, rear +1.5") with the negitive camber ,but with the trailer on or an engine/trans in the back, it's rock steady. As Charlie points out, the negitive camber helps most with a lowered car. He also points out that 185 wide tyres will hydroplane easily in the wet, this is true! But I finally got the S-drives on Rosie and I love them! We will see how they do in the rainy season (185/55 VR 14), the S-drives have 4 large groves, much like the old Potenza RE 01 R's, should be good in the wet.

[Advancedynamix]

Negative camber on the rear is very beneficial on the street, especially in wet weather. It improves stability and traction on the rear of the car. I'll text Ryal and tell him to check the forum. He can verify the traction advantage.

[sketchman]

If you rotate it you will make toe. You have to pick the camber you want and order the thickness for that camber. Then you remove fingers to fit it around the bolts.

[TominMO]

They have a varying thickness as you go around--one end will be very thin, the other thicker, with a gradual slope from thin to thick. So you rotate it to get it where you need it be be, for what camber you want to dial in.

I'm not exactly sure why anyone would need to change it, except for the last little bit of an edge for racing purposes. For 99% of us, stock is probably fine. Charlie lives in some alternate reality tho, where he must punish Lotuses.....

[sketchman]

Just like washers. You just stick it between the axle stub and the beam. You remove enough fingers so it fits around the bolts.

[bhazard]

I dont really understand how those things work.

[mikemounlio]

https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-camber-toe-shim-k994-6/20519632-P?cm_mmc%3DET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General&source=gmail&ust=1464050210462000&usg=AFQjCNFEskDZwcOM2K9CnCDBCI9XWl5VSA

[mikemounlio]

ill look it up in a bit sorry

[bhearts]

I bought camber plates from moog. Mine are 1.5° each. i have 4 to run -3°. just have not put them on yet.

What's that p.n.

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[mikemounlio]

I bought camber plates from moog. Mine are 1.5° each. i have 4 to run -3°. just have not put them on yet.

[bhazard]

Your PM box is full.


Charlie told me you've successfully done ghetto rear camber via washers on the spindle studs. Can you elaborate? How much camber are you running and how thick of a washer stack did it take?