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aspire drums to studs

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  • aspire drums to studs

    I want to convert my aspire drums to have studs. Does anyone have a part number or sizr to the studs i need? Also what drill size do i use to prep the holes to press the studs in?


    Thanks guys.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    You can get threaded studs and use red Loctite, works great. Gorilla sells 'em on Amazon, three different sizes, depending on whether you are running spacers or not. The short ones. Part # ends in S, L or XL, depending on length. Five to a set IIRC.
    Last edited by TominMO; 06-01-2017, 09:35 PM.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

    Disaster preparedness

    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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    • #3
      Mike,
      If you are using the ARP studs for Miata (90-93), (PN 100-7719 is a 4 pack), they will give you about 1-1/8" of room for wheel and spacer. Use a 15/32" chucking reamer in a mill or good drill press to take out the threads, followed buy a .495 to .500(max) chucking reamer for final size. Spot face the back side larg enough to get a flat surface to seat the head, press in with a little grease, use an old piston pin or deep socket to support the drum around the hole when pressing.

      If you get the OBX studs, for Honda or some such, be careful to make sure the ones you order have a 1.5mm pitch! These will give you an extra 1/2 inch of lengh. (PN 9999 11064-16pc I think). The spline size is smaller on these, use a 31/32" chucking reamer (to 12mm MAX) and that is the finish size. Spot face etc. Good luck!

      PS. A twist drill won't give you a round hole, nor an accurate diameter.
      Last edited by Advancedynamix; 06-03-2017, 07:40 AM.
      No car too fast !

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by TominMO View Post
        You can get threaded studs and use red Loctite, works great. Gorilla sells 'em on Amazon, three different sizes, depending on whether you are running spacers or not. The short ones. Part # ends in S, L or XL, depending on length. Five to a set IIRC.
        Thanks bud! Wheel studs are on order. Ill use the normal studs for now but will switch them out when they come in.
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mikemounlio
          I was reading that and scratching my head like WTH!
          Fortunately there are many here with better brains than mine.
          And I edited that post 3 times

          With all that torque, aren't you going to want press in studs in the front hubs?
          Last edited by Dragonhealer; 06-02-2017, 09:27 AM.
          No car too fast !

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
            Fortunately there are many here with better brains than mine.
            And I edited that post 3 times

            With all that torque, aren't you going to want press in studs in the front hubs?
            Ill give the screw in style a try 1st. If they dont feel right ill pull them out and drill and press in new ones. The screw in kind let me get away without drilling the new parts out and risk getting it wrong.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              Lots of people do it. I hope it works well for you!
              No car too fast !

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks.
                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                  Ill give the screw in style a try 1st. If they dont feel right ill pull them out and drill and press in new ones. The screw in kind let me get away without drilling the new parts out and risk getting it wrong.
                  I did the screw in types on my first car and used red locktite to keep them from backing out when loosening the lug nut.
                  Current cars:

                  1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
                  1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
                  2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
                  2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

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