Aspire beam W/WO sway bar

[mikemounlio]

I have swapped an aspire beam into my autocross car. The beam has Nates Camber plate and still have the sway bar attached. What i have found is that the beam is very stiff. I do get the car on three wheels around the corners. The wheel does not come very high tho. It is enough that people comment on it all the time however. My car is super planted tho. For a street car this setup is killer as it sticks to the ground with ease. I never fear getting rotation even hitting offramps at high speeds. It simply stays put.

My next step is to cut the sway bar out of the beam and see what happens. I want the car to rotate way more then it does now. Yes i have tried to hit corners at speeds and lift as i turn in. I have tried to trail brake. I have tried to snatch the wheel. I have tried to feather the gass. I have even tried to take a smooth corner amd mid corner try to upset the car and make it spin. So far the car has not moved much at all. I did get a tiny bit of rotation one day but that turn was wide open and at the very top of 2nd. It stepped out just a hair and felt great but i could not do it on command.

I will report back once the bar is out and i have tested the difference. I am hoping the car comes to life on corner entry.

[fudge]

That's interesting because I just put the aspire beam (w/sway bar) on my car and I just went to my first autocross and I felt it rotate on many turns, so much. Especially when trail braking.
But I'm also on cheap achilles tires.

[mikemounlio]

That's interesting because I just put the aspire beam (w/sway bar) on my car and I just went to my first autocross and I felt it rotate on many turns, so much. Especially when trail braking.
But I'm also on cheap achilles tires.

My next autocross i am going to try it with my 595 tires in the back and see what that does before i cut anything out. Charlie has told me that cutting the bar will help it grip better. I will be doing some practice in a parking lot with the slick i have now and the 595 in the back to see what happens. At the minute my car does not rotate at all. I am clearly doing somethig very wrong. Just dont know what it is yet.

[Doug Brown]

If you decided to cut the sway bar out, go buy a Bi-Metal hole saw. I think you need a 1 - 1-1/8 diameter one. There is a small shallow hole in the center of the sway bar (held it in place to be welded in). Put the starter drill bit in the hole and drill away. You only go through some thin metal (less than 1/8") unless you hit part of the actual weld.

Oil to keep the drill lubed and cool is good. Using a 1/2" drill motor is good too (lots of torque). It only takes about 60-seconds a side to cut the hole. You don't have to remove the rear beam (as I remember...) to make these cuts.

[mikemounlio]

If you decided to cut the sway bar out, go buy a Bi-Metal hole saw. I think you need a 1 - 1-1/8 diameter one. There is a small shallow hole in the center of the sway bar (held it in place to be welded in). Put the starter drill bit in the hole and drill away. You only go through some thin metal (less than 1/8") unless you hit part of the actual weld.

Oil to keep the drill lubed and cool is good. Using a 1/2" drill motor is good too (lots of torque). It only takes about 60-seconds a side to cut the hole. You don't have to remove the rear beam (as I remember...) to make these cuts.

Yes i have the tools to do it. Thats how i planned on it as well. Just dont want to cut it just yet.

[Rick the Quick]

Mike, did you ever get around to cutting the sway bar?