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  • #16
    Originally posted by fudge View Post
    So I have a question about the tires achilles economist; a lot of us seem to be using them. Last autocross was my first season and I was using achilles economist 165/50/15 stretched on 15x7 wheels. I felt like I was having traction issues because every time I turned (even a little bit) the car would rotate or lose traction. Now I know this could have been because of my inexperience, lift-off oversteer, tire temperature, tire stretch or that the tires were a few months old or a combination of many things, etc.
    But I am stuck with my bias that these tires just lacked grip. All you guys seem to use them and love them, and I do too for daily driving but I want different ones for autocross.

    Also my setup is bp/hydro g, advanced suspension 150/120. I liked how the car felt but I have been told that 120/105 is better. Why is that?

    Not to thread jack I posted this because I thought of this while reading through the posts

    Very excited to try Ryan's new product!
    I used to have this issue as well with my b6t/g car. I fixed it with negative camber in the rear. Have you adjusted the camber/toe in the rear?
    You can also learn to manage that oversteer and eventually you can use it to dance the car, then add negative camber and increase corner entry speeds.
    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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    • #17
      IIRC you're running an aspire rear bar without the camber spacers yet, both of those things can contribute to over steer. Stock rear beam (or even removing the sway bar from the aspire beam) and putting the camber plates in should help quite a bit.
      The camber plates can be a little tricky to get adjusted right, if you want to come down one weekend before AX season starts we can set them up - much easier with a lift, and I've done it a half dozen times now. Not till after Insanity though, I'm slammed up till then!
      ~Nate

      the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

      Current cars:
      91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
      1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
      2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

      FOTY 2008 winner!

      Comment


      • #18
        Looks like I will look into the camber plates in the rear then! Thanks
        92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

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        • #19
          Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
          IIRC you're running an aspire rear bar without the camber spacers yet, both of those things can contribute to over steer. Stock rear beam (or even removing the sway bar from the aspire beam) and putting the camber plates in should help quite a bit.
          The camber plates can be a little tricky to get adjusted right, if you want to come down one weekend before AX season starts we can set them up - much easier with a lift, and I've done it a half dozen times now. Not till after Insanity though, I'm slammed up till then!
          The plates now have a bit more adjustment then the 1st ones right.
          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

          Comment


          • #20
            Yes, all of the normal-production plates have more toe-in adjustment, but that only matters if you're running fairly high ride height. I still have the "pre-production" on my car.
            ~Nate

            the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

            Current cars:
            91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
            1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
            2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

            FOTY 2008 winner!

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
              Guess I'll jack the front up 1/2 an inch Sunday and retest.
              Did you end up having a chance to try that?

              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                Did you end up having a chance to try that?

                Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
                I did, I can't tell a difference on the street, except the car is less "nervous" at speed when I have the 150lb/in springs in the rear.
                James reports the track handling is improved and is more confidence inspiring, though his lap times only improved by a second. Steering effort is up a small amount.
                This change caused our test packings to "squirt" out.
                No car too fast !

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by fudge View Post
                  So I have a question about the tires achilles economist; a lot of us seem to be using them. Last autocross was my first season and I was using achilles economist 165/50/15 stretched on 15x7 wheels. I felt like I was having traction issues because every time I turned (even a little bit) the car would rotate or lose traction. Now I know this could have been because of my inexperience, lift-off oversteer, tire temperature, tire stretch or that the tires were a few months old or a combination of many things, etc.
                  But I am stuck with my bias that these tires just lacked grip. All you guys seem to use them and love them, and I do too for daily driving but I want different ones for autocross.

                  Also my setup is bp/hydro g, advanced suspension 150/120. I liked how the car felt but I have been told that 120/105 is better. Why is that?

                  Not to thread jack I posted this because I thought of this while reading through the posts

                  Very excited to try Ryan's new product!

                  Sorry I forgot to reply to this, try lowering your rear tire pressures 5psi.
                  No car too fast !

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
                    Sorry I forgot to reply to this, try lowering your rear tire pressures 5psi.
                    I will try this, thanks!
                    92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by fudge View Post
                      I will try this, thanks!
                      Get something to mark on your tires sidewall. Drop/raise psi until you only use only the entire tread. You you are rolling over to the side wall you need more air. If you still need more grip after finding the right psi you might need to look into the camber paltes.
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I need to post a clarification to the preload of the rear upper shock rubber mounts.
                        3-1/2 turns is specified if you are using old shock rubbers which have taken a "set" over the years. 12 to 14 turns will be correct on new rubbers!
                        The original 3/4" thick (19mm) are too thick to work well with new rubbers.
                        Subsequent production spacers will be 5/8" thick (16mm) and the 1/8" (3mm) aluminum washer replaced with a .050" (1.25mm) steel washer.

                        Sorry for any confusion.
                        Last edited by Dragonhealer; 08-19-2019, 12:04 PM.
                        No car too fast !

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          These spacers to adjust static droop are now for sale at the festiva store. See this post here: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...7&share_type=t

                          Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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