Using regular Capri front brakes and knuckles

[Safety Guy]

Folks, I am thinking about going with Capri hub/knuckles and brakes on Rosie to keep the Festiva bolt pattern. However, I've seen some comments about Capri brake calipers giving some problems and was wondering if they were the XR2s or regular Capri brakes. If there are problems regarding Capri brakes I'll avoid them, but they seem like a good idea to get better braking for an eventual B6 swap while retaining Festiva bolt pattern for my RX7 wheels I want to mount.

It also seems some Aspire LCAs will need to be used with the N/A Capri hub/knuckles, IIRC. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks,

Karl

[firebush357]

I had problems using the XR2 hubs with the Advance Suspension Setup but I am not sure about with Stock Suspension. I would expect it wouldn't be quite as bad since the stock struts are longer but you have to use the Aspire LCAs which are quite pricey ($80 each) from what I have seen. The problem I was having is that the hitting the CV Axle face making the hub not line up with strut mounts until I jacked the hub up.

If you don't have the Hubs yet I would recommend switching the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder first to see if that takes care of your braking needs because it will be a lot cheaper than a $200+ brake swap.

[Doug Brown]

The BP car that I bought and have since stripped for parts for a new BP drag racer used '88 Capri XR2 spindles/brakes/CV axles with Aspire lower control arms (LCA) and everything worked OK when I drove it on the street. You need Aspire rod ends.

For the drag racer I am using Aspire uprights & hubs because of the larger physical size of the forging (strength) and weight (more dead weight to help give traction) with Miata rear discs (solid smaller disc that can be further machine down for weight savings for less rotating mass) that have the same bolt pattern as the Aspire/Miata (100mm x 4).

[firebush357]

I don't think they made a Capri in 88 Doug

[theastronaut]

Stock festiva brakes work great if they're in good shape. My '88 and '89 both have stock brakes and are strong enough to lock up sticky Nankang NS2R track tires at 85 mph and can brake hard from 80-20 mph 3-4 times before beginning to fade. I had 100% stock brakes at Insanity and could do a 20 minute session without fade, granted that was with a mildly built b3 so I wasn't braking as much as the more powerful cars. You can add a NB Miata booster and master cylinder for better pedal effort/feel to get the most out of the stock brakes; I'd do that first before upgrading the brakes.

[bhazard]

I don't care for Capri brakes myself as they force you to use 14" wheels at a minimum. Big and heavy. If I had to upgrade and keep 4x114.3, I would use the BF 323 setup. Similar to the Capri but smaller, and better for a lowered car as Charlie has discovered.

[sc72]

Hello Karl, i have been using the XR2 brakes for quite a few years with no problems, i don't race the car so there is that, but i do a lot of Deer dodging and i'm quite happy with how these brakes work. i'm sure all of the other suggestions probably work great, but this is my experience for what it's worth. Good Luck

[chrisofna]

I don't care for Capri brakes myself as they force you to use 14" wheels at a minimum. Big and heavy. If I had to upgrade and keep 4x114.3, I would use the BF 323 setup. Similar to the Capri but smaller, and better for a lowered car as Charlie has discovered.

Are the knuckles different? I remember having to jack the knuckle/arm up to compress the suspension in order the get a bolt into the XR2 brakes. I didn't know if they made the knuckles shorter somehow.

[firebush357]

Are the knuckles different? I remember having to jack the knuckle/arm up to compress the suspension in order the get a bolt into the XR2 brakes. I didn't know if they made the knuckles shorter somehow.

I think that they may be a little thicker if that makes sense.... Mine were bottomed out on the CV Axles face causing it to not line up correctly until compressed but the Coilovers have an aluminium mount that I do not want to rip through so I am going to have my CV machined down to see if that works.

[Safety Guy]

I've decided to keep Rosie's stock suspension for now, with the possible exception of going to coil overs in the back. I have a set somewhere, along with a set of conversion studs. I will be "freshening up" her brakes as well with new rotors, drums, and maybe bearings. This will be partially a result of swapping in other part assemblies as I get them done, and having a stock of fresh assemblies (knuckles, drums with bearings and races, etc.) for future use on Rosie and other cars.

I am wondering what would be an easy way to make a rear 10mm spacer for temporary use. If anyone knows, please tell! I should think it would have a hubcentric locating hole and best fit on studs. The rear drum looks to have plenty of hub bearing surface sticking out for a spacer.

A pair of good spacers would allow me to pop those RX7 phone dial wheels on any stock Festiva without having to do the coil over work.

Another question: aluminum or steel?

Karl

[Dragonhealer]

The easy way is to buy them on line, about $50 a pair......
We always use aluminum. You will need longer bolts or studs if converted.

[firebush357]

I bought my 10mm spacers on Amazon for about $35 and then a set of 4 Hubcentric Rings for about $15 and they mounted up great. Smoothest ride My Festiva has ever had.