Possible problem with Aspire brake swap.

[niklid05]

Well I went to the junkyard yesterday to get aspire brake and suspension. I found a green automatic aspire. So I have at it. Took me a while cuz I didnt know exactly what I was doing. Finally got the right side off. I went to the other side and I COULD NOT snap that axle nut lose. I was standing on the breaker bar(24inch) with a 1-1 1/2 foot cheater on it, jumping up and down, and could not even break it lose. I was pulling the rear of the car off the ground. My friend was too, and hes 50-60 pounds heavier.

So I said screw it. I went to look for another aspire, I found one but the problem is that it was a 5spd aspire. So it was getting a little late, so I just took off the left side.

Now I go up to the check out and pay for it and realize I dont have the caliper for the right side. So I pay for the stuff take it out to the truck and go back in to get the caliper. Here is where I am a moron. I went back to the manual aspire and got the right side caliper :roll: :roll:. My question for you guys is....will a manual caliper work with the auto rotor?? I am gonna have to go back and get the rear axle assembly, so I can grab that while am there.

So basically i got:
right front-
Spring and strut
AUTO rotor
spindle
MANUAL Caliper
13inch wheel with decent tire

left front-
spring and strut
manual rotor
manual caliper
spindle
13inch wheel with a decent tire

I read that people were having troubles hooking the festiva brake line up to the aspire caliper. Should I grab the line that connects at the strut or should I grab the line that runs all the way up to the hard line?

I didnt get the tierod ends either. I read that the 91-96 escort ones fit and are cheaper. Does it matter if its lx or gt?

And another thing. The tires are 175/70/13 am I gonna have to change those tires for possible rubbing issues.

I followed groharlems right-up and it was awesome. Great article Gro!

*****One thing that made me really really happy. I found a festiva that had the ac unit in it!!!!!!! The head is off but the it looks as everything was still there for the ac. I am certainly grabbing that next time I go up!!!

thanks for the help guys.

[muscle_Car1]

Nope the auto's & manuals are different. But you might be able to goto the local parts store & order a set of loaded cailpers. They come with rebuilt calipers & pads for 1 price.

Get all the rubber line. Just cut the hardline & remove that clamp thing on the body.

Yeah get the escort tie rods. Doesn't matter on lx or gt or auto or manual.

[niklid05]

Thanks Carl for responding. I took your advice and found some loaded calipers.

I just checked napas prices(there is one right in town.)

I chose the auto stuff because I assume it has a hair better braking capabilites.

prices for the following:
2- automatic (AE Premium) reman. caliper w/pads and hardware - 134.49 (core-55.00)Each. napa p/n.... rightside- 44262191M left side- 4426191M
2- automatic brake rotors only(?) 36.98
2-escort outer tierods 38.98

total- 344.94 before core. 234.94 after cores.

Does that sound about right??? Is there anything else I should add to the list?

Also can someone clarify if I will be ok with 175/70/13 tires. Am I gonna rub? I assume I wont.

[Sho_tyme_psi]

I have 13's on my car now and they dont rub. They were what came on the aspire.

[niklid05]

I keep following you :lol:

I was worried about the height of the tire. I wasnt sure if it would rub.

[muscle_Car1]

Yeah the auto's are thicker rotors. Some people say thats better others say it just adds unnessacary weight for marginal benifit. I dont care either way they are way better than stock, plus you can change the rotors at home. I usually get loaded calipers cause I want to put new pads & stuff on so why not go all out & get fully new/rebuilt brakes.

[Sho_tyme_psi]

I keep following you :lol:

I was worried about the height of the tire. I wasnt sure if it would rub.

LOL yea. Maybe someone will help us out on this.

[monkeyracing]

Weird, I just pulled 175/70/13s off my car because they were rubbing the bottom of the strut at the rear of the car. Mind you, they were snow tires, so...

The only issue you'll face with them is speedo error, but if you compensate for it, you're okay.

[Sho_tyme_psi]

Weird, I just pulled 175/70/13s off my car because they were rubbing the bottom of the strut at the rear of the car. Mind you, they were snow tires, so...

The only issue you'll face with them is speedo error, but if you compensate for it, you're okay.

Correction, forgot I trimed the outside the rear shock. Sorry about the mixup.

[niklid05]

I just checked GroHarlems prices and they seem to be pretty much the same as what I have listed.


How much did you have to trim off? I guess I will find out once I get it on there.

BTW for both sides up front, including the wheels and tires I paid $90. Just an FYI incase anyone was wondering.

[Sho_tyme_psi]

I trimed it flush with the shock. I also have coilovers giving me more room. Just a cheap ebay kit.

[Safety Guy]

I use Aspire struts in the rear since they give you about 3/4" more tire clearance than the Festiva struts. Aspire rear struts have a higher spring perch.

Loaded or semi-loaded calipers is the way to go, if you have the money! You don't have to mess with changing over the pin guides or the rubber guide boots, which can be a pain.

I'm one who advocates for using the manual Aspire rotors and calipers. I weighed two sets of new Raybestos PG Plus rotors and found the manuals to save you 1.5 pounds in weight per side.

I didn't weigh calipers though, but I doubt there is much difference and if there is, I bet the auto calipers would be slightly heavier, adding a few more unwanted ounces to your unsprung weight.

Karl