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Your working fast and it looks great!!!!
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1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock. -
You painted the speedo sensor! Hope that was a spare junk unit97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed
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the body need some major work in spots im not a body guy so im gonna be learning but i catch on quick so shouldnt be too bad whats the best bondo to use i dont want cracking im thinking of naming the car either (midnight because i always seem to work on it till midnight and it will be black) or (night train) not sure yet i have one hole to fix in the passenger floor that i know of so far and some rust repair on the rear quarters the reae hatch will need the most rust repair if any one knows where to get a windshield for a good price im gonna need one any body got ideas for some rims im thinking 14 or 15 in aloy or chrome thanks for the imput guys im having alot of fun working on this projectIn the land of the blind The one eyed man is king.
90 chevy one ton
91 red festiva
92 project festiva
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The best bondo to use is no bondo at all.
(Not really)
But you should do major work with sheet metal. Grind it out, hammer the edges down, spray rust reformer on it, and let it dry overnight. After that, take some 22G galvanized sheet metal and cut it to the desired shape with heavy-duty tin snips. (be sure to bend it, too.)
Then, drill and rivet it in around the damaged area, and seal under the edges with JB-weld (JB-kwick will work, too), then let it dry before using bondo premium body filler. Sand that, prime the area, feather it/ wetsand it more, prime again, use bondo filling and spot putty, wetsand again, prime, wetsand, prime, wetsand, prime, dry, and paint.
Yes, it sucks.
And the floor thing- grind, rust reformer, and rivet sheet metal on BOTH sides (each rivet through both layers AND original floor pan). JB weld, and bedline the bottom. The top can be covered with carpet, so no worry. I'm about to do the same thing in my car just in front of the clutch petal. Only hole in the floor, thank god.Last edited by Basement_Modder; 03-04-2012, 07:52 PM.1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6TComment
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Black is a tuff color to learn on , white is more forgiving - im sure fester will give you some tips !Comment
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Welding a proper patch in is the only way I'd ever fix rust, but I'm a bodyman for a living. I wouldn't recommend riveting a patch in, bound to just rust again in time and come back to haunt you. If I were me, I'd cut out all the rust, get a clean patch cut off another car, or make one. Weld it in, grind the welds down flush then use filler over that, fiberglass filler first if needed. Then when done spray rustproofing on the back side of the repaired area. They make guns that have a 360 degree spray tip so you won't miss getting any nooks and crannies rustproofed.
Just my advice, hope that helps.-93' L BP swap/e-series, coilovers, RIO front swap, redrilled festy drums, Miata 14" 7 spokes.
-88' Mazda 323 SE, work in progress..
-85' Nissan Sentra 5 spd.Comment
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I like the advice about rivets and about bondo. Pop rivets around here (the common aluminum ones) entirely oxidize away during a single winter. Structural or extensive Bondo just 'crazes' through differential heat and cold and leaves a car looking worse than when you started.
Course if all you're trying to do is get another season out of a dying car, and to keep the wind and water out temporarily, then rivets, fiberglas cloth and bondo will work.Comment
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^this!1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.Comment
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this was kinda my planOriginally posted by Festiva_Fred View PostIn the land of the blind The one eyed man is king.
90 chevy one ton
91 red festiva
92 project festivaComment
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i wanna fix this car up right and have it last and i want it to look goodIn the land of the blind The one eyed man is king.
90 chevy one ton
91 red festiva
92 project festivaComment
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Obviously welding is the best way to go if you want it to last... just wasn't sure if he had a welder.1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6TComment
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Ok finely got my aspire swap done engine is in have a few things to wrap up b4 I can run it and a fewvloose ends but she should be good to go 4 the meet on Saturday thanks to some help from fordfester hope to have pics soon see u guys on SaturdayIn the land of the blind The one eyed man is king.
90 chevy one ton
91 red festiva
92 project festivaComment
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