Build thread for MOZDA

[moz]

Thanks wolf! Love the encouragement.

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[moz]

Pulled my engine down to the block this weekend.

Turns out the guy who sold it to me was telling the truth (I didn't want to rely on biased opinions).
The bores are all shiny and new looking. The bore patterns are spot on and untouched. There is no ridge above the rings, so I'd say this motor has less than 60,000 km on it.

There is a buttload of carbon build up:



But its nothing a bit of elbow grease won't fix



As you all can see, the head gasket was pretty well stuck on.
I managed to clean it all up real nice [INSERT PHOTO] but some of the bits of gasket have gone down the oil and water jackets.

I'm gonna remove the sump and blow all oil jackets out with compressed air.
Is that what is normally done in this case?

[jawbraeka]

Go with a soak in water and let the pieces drop out the bottom when you pull the block then use the compressed air. Or turn the block upside down and blow air up into the channels.

sent from the depths of hell.

[moz]

I did the compressed air thing already. Seems to have worked. I've put it all back together except for the head and water pump.

But my gut is telling me to strip it bare and check the rings and oil pump seal.

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[Advancedynamix]

I would pull the pistons and clean the ring groves and rings really good. I soak the pistons in acetone or lacquer thinner for a few days, periodically brushing off the carbon with a firm bristled nylon brush. Then, after all the heavy carbon is gone, soak and wash them in hot (almost boiling hot) water with dish soap, using a firm toothbrush to clean the ring grooves. You can reuse the rings, I did with my latest b6t, and it runs excellent. In fact, I have had better results with these used rings than I did with brand new aftermarket rings.

Be sure to keep track of which piston/rings went in which cylinder and make sure to instal the rings with the same side facing up that you took them out.

Piston rings rely on the combustion gasses getting behind them and pushing them outward to seal. If there is carbon buildup (and there will be) in your ring grooves then the rings wont seal properly. Try to clean the pistons without removing any metal from them, especially in the ring groves.

[moz]

Thanks charlie. You confirmed my hunch.
How much gap is tolerable on the rings?



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[Advancedynamix]

I would be weary of anything more than .016" and anything less than .013". My used 146,000 mile rings had a perfect .0135" end gap on all 4 cylinders and my engine had very little wear as well. For a comparison, the brand new Hastings rings that I bought for this engine had .020" end gap, which is unacceptable. I had this problem with the NPR rings I built my first engine with, and that engine always had blow by issues.
I ran a plateau brush through my cylinders (6 quick strokes) to deglaze them and I sanded around the rings (the surface that mates with the cylinder) to allow a fresh reseating of the rings. It doesn't take much, I was just removing the glaze. It seemed to have worked great because I'm running 15psi with water methanol injection and the engine uses no oil at all, havn't done a comp/leak test yet, but I'll post my results when I get a chance.

[moz]

Well. I stuck to the Gospel of advanced dynamix and I'm glad I did.

The top ring in cyl 3 was so caked up with carbon that it was stuck in its compressed position.





Acetone and very hot soapy water did the trick just like charlie said.


Even the oil squirters were clogged up with carbon


Nice and clean now


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[Prafeston]

Good work man!

[moz]

Thanks raf!

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[GenevaDirt]

not sure why but all the links say invalid for me...and I have had others tell me that too.

[jawbraeka]

Just a tip, if you upload all your photos into a private folder on Facebook, you can add them directly to the forums.. Also, untick the box when doing this and faceache will do the rest

sent from the depths of hell.

[moz]

sorry guys. my photo bucket was an absolute mess.
ive re organized all the photos and will repost again

[jawbraeka]

Huzzah.

sent from the depths of hell.

[moz]

OK! So i messed up my photos and links and whatever else.
So below is a summarised pictorial history of my build so far.

MAZDA 121 PURCHASED 23 DECEMBER 2012











GETTING READY FOR ROADWORTHY AND REGISTRATION JAN 2013



CAPRI XR2 DONOR CAR PURCHASED JAN 2013


I LOVE THIS BADGE. KINDA GEEKY, BUT I REALLY LIKE IT.


WASNT LONG BEFORE I HAD IT WELL AND TRULY GUTTED



REAR SUSPENSION MODDED AS PER ADVANCEDYNAMIX


BRAKE BOOSTER CLEARANCING (ONLY APPLIES TO RHD CARS) -I'll create a separate thread in articles for the tutorial on this mod.


FRONT GEARBOX MOUNT HAD TO BE FABRICATED USING ANGLE IRON AND SOME GOOD OLD AUSSIE KNOW HOW.
I USED THE BOTTOM HALF OF A 1996-2002 DW MAZDA 121 (DEMIO IN JAPAN) FRONT GEARBOX MOUNT. IT SITS MUCH LOWER THAN THE FESTIVA OR CAPRI ITEMS, SO IT CREATES MORE SPACE FOR THE RAD AND HOSES ETC.










REAR GEARBOX MOUNT MODS. I USED A FORD CAPRI REAR MOUNT AND MODDED IT TO SUIT. I ALSO MOVED THE TOP MOUNTING BOLT APPROX 10MM TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE (DRIVERS SIDE FOR LHD COUNTRIES) AS I WAS ADVICED THAT THE DRIVESHAFTS LINE UP BETTER THIS WAY. NOTE: I ONLY MODDED THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE MOUNT AS THESE ARE READILY AVAILABLE AND CAN BE REPLICATED ANYTIME.







GEARBOX IS ALMOST TOUCHING THE FRAME (IVE MASSAGED IN THIS WITH THE RUBBER MALLET SINCE)


GEARBOX IS ALSO MIGHTY CLOSE TO THE STEERING ARM BRACKET


TIME TO DISMANTLE THE ENGINE FOR A CLEAN AND REBUILD

BEFORE (PLENTY OF CARBON BUILDUP)




OIL SQUIRTERS WERE SERIOUSLY CLOGGED


AFTER-

OIL SQUIRTERS


PISTONS


WITH RINGS CLEANED AND FITTED


NEXT WEEK.... CLEANING OUT THE BORES