rmoltis build thread 96 aspire

[rmoltis]

And here's some Interior pictures. Here's the black real sheepskin seat covers they sell them at Costco.

Current mileage and scanguage.



Rear seats


And the trunk cover I made out of mdf and wrapped in vinyl to match.
Since this was made I bought a stock parcel shelf.

[rmoltis]

Here's some pics of speaker locations. Front passenger.



Driver front.


Rear channels

[rmoltis]

Alpine CDa-9887 head unit.


Yellow top optima I should upgrade that ground wire someday.


Closeup kicker battery terminal (1) 0 gauge and the two stock wires.

[rmoltis]

heres where the 1/0 guage blue wire runs into the distribution block andsplits into the two 4 guage primary wires 1 for each amp. and the white 4g wire running into it is the positive lead off of the capacitor and the ground off of the capacitor runs to its own grounding.


and heres a back shot of the block splitting into the amps and capacitor kinda


then we go to the trunk view with the trunk cover on still.

[rmoltis]

heres another view of the amps together and then apart



here is the infinity kappa FOUR



and here is the kappa ONE



and these are the infinity kappa 100.9w subs i really like these subs. its infinitys latest model of subs they hit low hard and clean and theyre very accurate. even in a ported box they dont get sloppy.



and heres a picture of the port hole i measured the size of the opening of it and i split it into two box shaped holes into the trunk cover to help the waves enter the cabin while also adding extra distance from the sub to the ear. and it helps a lot with getting rid of cancellation but helps make the bass more audible i noticed.

[rmoltis]

Here's a picture of the dynamat on the hatch and hatch opening below it.


And here's some pics of the dynamat firewall from left to right.

[Festevil3]

How much weight did the dynamat add to your car total? Just curious I have been thinking about doing the same thing to one of my festivas.

[rmoltis]

got a couple more pics to add. I popped the rear speaker covers off. You can see how I used a fat piece of wood. it was to help absorb vibration, and that little speaker is quite heavy thats mounted to it and it's so big it barely fits on the wood mount for clearance to install The panels. I put that black silicone sealant around the outside edges of the speaker to seal it to the wood and also covered thescrews too to prevent rattling loose.



And in this next picture gives a good shot of how I used expanding spray foam between the wood and the plastic on top to help seal the sound into the cabin and keep the sound from the backside of the speaker in the enclosures. And those are 12g wires for little resistance on that speaker.

[rmoltis]

Today I ordered a new OEM passenger front fender to replace the dinged up one I have now. It was 30 before shipping and 61.82 after. Then I ordered some primered delta shaped vortex generators there were 10 pc, I know that they are made to help with backpressure and coefficient drag to an extent which is nice but I also like the way they look. Cani lupine had some on his car at one point I read some of his threads and watched a couple videos. And looked at some science about them here's a link to a PDF explaining vortex generators effectiveness and the guidelines here, the PDF is not a specific brand just vortex generators in general.

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate...2004/16E_03.pdf


And they were 16.82 after shipping. And my plan was to have some spray can paint matched to the stock color of my car. Paint the bumper, new fender, tiny trim piece under passenger side headlight/turn signal, and vortex generators... Base clear of course I want it to look factory. Can't wait.

[rmoltis]

im back and i got my vortex generators delivered yesterday. i went out and bought a spray can of base coat matched to my paint code fr. and got a can of clear. and bought a can of primer. heres are the vg's in the package.





so i took them and washed them with soap and water and lightly scrubbed all edges with a scotchbrite pad in the water and soap.. rinsed them off and took some alcohol and got a lightly damp paper towel with the alcohol and rubbed them lightly to remove and grease or oil. then i let them out to dry.

[rmoltis]

so after they were all dried and ready i went a found my local piece of scrap cardboard, my primer, some 320 grit sandpaper. Applied some adhesion promoter. then i proceeded to put about 1-2 coats of primer on lightly then sanded them smooth and put one fat smooth coat on to cover any scratches and smooth it all out with the paint laying down.





then i let them dry for a bit.

[rmoltis]

then i got my base coat of hot red mica and proceeded to spray the first few coats on it.



then i put like 2-3 more coats on it and let it dry for like 40 mins


then after it dried pretty good i went a head and re sprayed the base coat one last time to get the metallic to lay down consistant and uniform.


i like how you can see the shading differences between the 6-8 coats in steps getting richer in color until you cant get the color any richer then you know your ready for the clear coat.

and heres a couple closeups before the clear coat.

[rmoltis]

so i let those parts dry over night and this morning i went at it when the temp outside hit 70 degrees. i started applying the clear coat. i put about 3 coats on to get build and tack. then after it was good and tacky dry i went ahead and sprayed one final thick wet coat to smooth out all the edges and give it a good consistant shine.



heres a couple closeups. pics dont do them justice





then i let them dry in the sun for a few hours and after i was able to handle them without the paint being soft. they hardened up. i took some scotchbrite and lightly buffed the edges of clear stuck to the edges and bottom from where they were sitting on the cardboard.

[rmoltis]

and then i went a head and once they were hardened i started taking width measurments and finding the centerline of the car. that study said the airflow tends to follow the center line all the way back so they dont have you put a single fin in the center. instead you take two side by side and angle them at 15 degrees towards the vehicle center line so they help breakup that pressure and spread it out.

Here's one of the studies

http://arc.uta.edu/research/vortex.htm

and heres a ghetto shaky picture from my upstairs window to get a bigger picture view of it all. and im waiting on my new fender in the mail so that i can fix that nasty dent in the current fender. and the grey primered trim and bumper will be done at a later time as well.

[rmoltis]

I just wanted to post a picture of the new swaybar bushings in the package and verify what they are. They are brand new, they are red so they'll match my car, there's the swaybar to frame bushing same shape as stock, as well as the control arm bushings, and they come with the metal sleeves to the control arm and grease to lube them up. And they are nolathane. So they aRe harder than stock. I won't be putting these on anytime soon I want to piece together my suspension, and not random pieces on at different rates. I'm trying to minimize my alignments and I want new pieces working with new pieces. Just wanted you guys to know that these bushings are real and found and theres only 3 pairs left on the eBay australia site and they are Polyurethane. I'm so excited. I never even thought I'd find stock fitment for the swaybar to frame bushings but here they are better than stock, lucky me. Not so lucky on my wallet tho but I believe they will be well worth it. hope this helps someone else out.