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  • My Festiva.

    So I found this "Gem" on Craigslist a couple days ago and decided to check it out. It's a 1993 Ford Festiva L with 16K miles on an engine rebuild and a new clutch, new suspension, new front seats (Out of Festiva GL) new radiator, new temp sensor, new radiator fan switch, new O2 sensor, custom glasspack exhaust, ect.

    When I purchased it, it came with two issues.

    #1. The gas gauge does not work what-so-ever.

    #2. The coolant temperature would get a little hotter than usual (Found issues with coolant temp sensor and radiator fan switch)

    The car never got ridiculously hot, although it did exceed the mid-point. Never left the "White zone" (Never reached the red zone)

    I paid $2000 for it. As of now it functions perfectly, starts in one crank, shifts well. Only recent issue is that it's developed a grind when shifting into reverse..SOMETIMES.











  • #2
    Change transmission fluid to ATX fluid immediately.

    Need to buy a timing belt cover. It is missing.

    Flip up rear seat, lift carpet. Probe red wire with key in RUN. Should be hot.
    If yes, then replace fuel sender. If not, follow it backwards first to the connector under the left dash, then to the fuel gauge. Good luck.

    Where are you located?
    Last edited by bravekozak; 01-12-2014, 10:23 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
      Change transmission fluid to ATX fluid immediately.

      Need to buy a timing belt cover. It is missing.

      Flip up rear seat, lift carpet. Probe red wire with key in RUN. Should be hot.
      If yes, then replace fuel sender. If not, follow it backwards first to the connector under the left dash, then to the fuel gauge. Good luck.

      Where are you located?
      Washington State. I do intend to switch over to ATX within the next couple of days.

      Comment


      • #4
        great looking car!
        Never Hire a Boy to do a Man's Job!!

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        • #5
          Someone obviously took care of that car. As to the high heat issue, you might want to check that the rad isn't blocked. Put your hand on it in various places while the motor is warmed up and running, to see if there are warm and cold areas. Also check the temp on the upper and lower hoses (upper hose should be hot, with coolant coming from the motor; lower much cooler as it enters the water pump). If the lower hose is hot, try flushing the system. Also flush the heater core, in both directions.

          If it needs a new rad, also do those two hoses, and a small J-shaped hose under the #1 spark plug, on the bypass tube. You can get that one as a cut-to-fit from a McParts store.

          For the upper timing belt cover, I have mine cut to the minimum for basic protection, and biased toward ease of removal. It's shaped like an upside down J, with the short side to the rear of the motor, and the center cut out so you can see the timing belt upper gear/sprocket. The reason the rear of the J is short is because I have eliminated a cover screw that is hard to get to, near the alternator.
          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
          09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

          You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

          Disaster preparedness

          Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

          Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TominMO View Post
            Someone obviously took care of that car. As to the high heat issue, you might want to check that the rad isn't blocked. Put your hand on it in various places while the motor is warmed up and running, to see if there are warm and cold areas. Also check the temp on the upper and lower hoses (upper hose should be hot, with coolant coming from the motor; lower much cooler as it enters the water pump). If the lower hose is hot, try flushing the system. Also flush the heater core, in both directions.

            If it needs a new rad, also do those two hoses, and a small J-shaped hose under the #1 spark plug, on the bypass tube. You can get that one as a cut-to-fit from a McParts store.

            For the upper timing belt cover, I have mine cut to the minimum for basic protection, and biased toward ease of removal. It's shaped like an upside down J, with the short side to the rear of the motor, and the center cut out so you can see the timing belt upper gear/sprocket. The reason the rear of the J is short is because I have eliminated a cover screw that is hard to get to, near the alternator.

            The heating issue has since been resolved after replacing the fan switch and temp sensor on the radiator. The person who cared for it and had it rebuilt simply didn't look into getting them replaced. He said the car never went into the red zone when he owned it and said that he figured the gauge itself was off or that the thermostat he replaced the old one with was defective. Very likely the scenario considering when you start the car, it says the coolant temp is half-way, when in reality it should be appearing at the bottom of the scale. Not only that, but since he replaced the radiator itself.

            I took it to my dads shop and they opted to replace the temp sensor and the fan switch, however it's been so cold these days that I haven't even seen the fan switch on.
            Last edited by m3t4lm4n222; 01-12-2014, 11:50 PM.

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            • #7
              I have an 89 and my gas gauge stopped working as well how did you fix yours if you did


              The_Night_Hawk

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                Flip up rear seat, lift carpet. Probe red wire with key in RUN. Should be hot.
                If yes, then replace fuel sender. If not, follow it backwards first to the connector under the left dash, then to the fuel gauge. Good luck.
                Originally posted by The_Night_Hawk View Post
                I have an 89 and my gas gauge stopped working as well how did you fix yours if you did


                The_Night_Hawk
                Brave gave good information, just didn't designate them as to what they referred to.

                Also, in the future Mr Hawk, you might want to open a thread in the Repair section concerning specific repairs.
                I know your new so no harm no foul.
                Additionally, you might also want to use our search function to get answers before posting a new thread.
                The search function is not the easiest to navigate, but with practice can be very helpful.
                Welcome!
                '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                '92 Aqua parts Car
                '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                Your holy ghost will not save you.
                Your God plutonium will not save you.
                In fact...
                ...You will not be saved!"

                Prince of Darkness -1987

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                • #9
                  Ok lol


                  The_Night_Hawk

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                  • #10
                    I occasionally get a grind or a chunk sound when shifting into reverse as well.
                    I always put it off as just a transmission quirk.

                    ATX is always a safe bet, but me and quite a few other people here have had good experiences with running Pennzoil Syncromesh.

                    Also FYI the grind/chunk sound happened both with ATX, and Syncromesh, just being clear that the Syncromesh didn't cause it.
                    1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                    2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                    1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                    • #11
                      Looks really good. Great find!

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                      • #12
                        I don't think reverse is synchronized... So its probably normal to get that slight grind.
                        91GL BP/F3A with boost
                        13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                        • #13
                          Love Syncromesh.
                          My Festiva Youtube Channel.

                          Skittle and Pesty.

                          Skittle: 91 Festiva L (143K)
                          5 Speed. Aspire Swap. Aspire Booster/EGT Master Cylinder. B6-ME. MSD Streetfire. Miata Seats. Daisy Rims.
                          Pesty 88 Fextiva LX
                          Aspire B3. 5 Speed. Aspire Swap. Miata Booster/Master Cylinder. Microsquirt. Volvo Turbo. Innovate Wideband O2 sensor. Protege Seats.

                          Rativa: 89 Festiva LX (Carby) (223K)
                          Donor of Life.
                          Whitestiva: 91 Festiva GL (236K)
                          Auto. Donor of Life.

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