B3T aspire

[Aaronbrook37]

I've been down this road....don't expect a b3 to hold much more than 10 lbs unless you upgrading internals.

I ran stock ecu, with stock injectors, and a 12:1 fmu. I don't see a point in bigger injectors, as it will run like crap in off boost situations. Also I got away with stock base timing of 10*.

I didn't realize you did this on base timing. That's pretty remarkable.

[sketchman]

There are vac advance actuators that do retard too. They were used in old factory boost apps. Just sayin'. You don't necessarily need fancy smancy electro gizmos to get it done. Last I checked they were about $6 on eBay.

Corvair Turbo. Part #VC150T

[Advancedynamix]

As much as I love the latest greatest state of the art engine management, it's fun to tweak and tune old factory setups to make more power. There are a lot of tricks to dialing in a AFM style system, and they can be every bit as adjustable as obd2 systems, often times more adjustable.

[moz]

Well, Aspire front brakes and stock festiva drums take me down from 140mph every minute and 12 seconds for a half hour at a time without flinching in a car that weighs 100lbs more than stock and has 3 times the HP. There goes that theory.

Edit… forgot to mention that the above is also on R compound tires with 4 times the grip of most street tires. Aspire brakes take some pedal effort, but if you can make them fade with a good set of pads you're using the brakes too much and if you can't stop the car fast enough you are out of luck, because it'll outstop just about anything on the road. I have shelves of products from Wilwod and Brembo, and never found a need for anything more than drilled ebay rotors with Performance friction pads on auto aspire brakes. More than 40K track miles on 1 set of pads!

I've read this same spiel a number of times on numerous threads.
And I still don't get tired of hearing it.

Long live the gospel of st. Charles of Festiva. ;p

[bhearts]

If I was to make a better, revised model of the dae intake manifold, would everyone prefer to see performance numbers pre turbo or post turbo? I'd enjoy knowing how an intake manifold changed stock drivability. I keep a close eye on my vacuum gauge, to judge engine load under certain driving conditions.

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[sketchman]

Yes.

[sketchman]

....Aspire brakes are great. Better than most people think. The same brakes stop a 2600lb car just fine. I know because I have one. I would say brakes are a non-issue. The rest is how fast can you afford to go. Time and money wise.

Need to correct myself here. The brakes I have are the same ones that stop a 2600lb car (3rd Gen Escort Wagon), and they do a fine job of it, but a straight Aspire/Rio swap using all stock parts is not quite the same thing. The calipers are different. I just noticed this perusing rockauto. The Escort calipers I have are 54mm bores. An Aspire and early Rio is 50.8mm. The brake pads are the same though. So there.

[moz]

It'll still stop a Festiva on a dime.
That's the only important fact.

[bhearts]

it's a little too big bigger than the engine...

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[bhearts]

Where do you turbo guys get your coolant and return lines from. Like from where to where

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[bhearts]

And does anyone have a link or part number for a narrower festiva sized radiator.

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[defprun]

And does anyone have a link or part number for a narrower festiva sized radiator.

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Honda rad?

[bhearts]

Yeah. I can just go to mcparts and ask for a Honda rad?

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[moz]

Cheapest Honda aluminum double thickness racing rads are on eBay. I paid $99 for mine

[moz]

Only 38(approx) cm wide. Very nice