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From B8 to B6T - My New Build!

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    The best way to make a b6t happy is to utilize the block vent. While your swapping engines, this would be a good time to address that.

    Vented block helps the rings to seal properly. B6t management runs incredibly rich under boost and has a tendency to wash the oil quickly. Thin oil then stays suspended in the air longer and will travel out the valve cover vent while under boost and out the PCV vent while under deceleration. Ring blow-by will get worse as the oil is washed away from the cylinder walls. As you can imagine, this snowballs quickly. A slightly worn B6t will ingest it's own oil at an incredible rate. Many people blame this on the turbo because the turbo will have oil in it from the valve cover vent that goes into the turbo inlet pipe. The turbo is, often times, not the issue. The turbo will also pass oil if the oil is thinned with gasoline and the bottom end of the engine is pressureized by ring blow by. Thin, dirty oil will also destroy a turbo quickly.
    These engines were designed to have a vented block, that's why the ports and pipes are there. Our ignorant EPA engineers discouraged such a system and Mazda/Ford capped it off. With the block vent ports blocked off, the bottom end must vent through the oil return ports from the head to the block. The b6t doesn't have sufficient oil return ports to do this and drain the oil effectively. Later Mazda engines have more oil return ports.
    Piston rings seal due to a gas pressure differential and a thin oil film on the cylinder wall. When the bottom end of the engine is pressurized, the pressure differential is reduced. When the thin oil film is washed by unburned fuel escaping past the rings, the rings become even less effective. Also, ring blow by introduces carbon into the oil (from the combustion process). Carbon (suspended in fuel thinned oil) will destroy bearings quickly. Carbon is extremely abrasive. If your oil comes out black after less than 2000 miles, your rings are not happy.
    Bottom line, if you want to have a turbo engine which does not consume oil (or even dirty the oil) then I strongly suggest a proper air oil separator with a drain to the oil pan (just like mazda put on the JDM and AU b6t engines).
    I'd like to get a separator, but I'm not sure where to start. Where is the best place to get one? Or should I make one? How difficult would that be?
    1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
    1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
    2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

    You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

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    • #47
      Did you contact the guy i told you about on facebook?

      Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
      Last edited by ryanprins13; 05-11-2017, 12:52 PM.

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      • #48
        You can find a nice one on eBay....Mann is the manufacturer. They run about $85 Or you can buy one from China for about $25 from a guy that knows absolutely nothing about making one. Mann makes diesel engines and engine components. If you have a lot of time to spare make your own. For me it's easier to send $85 and get one that will work 1st time. Just my 2 cents.
        '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
        '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
        '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by TWFodor View Post
          I'd like to get a separator, but I'm not sure where to start. Where is the best place to get one? Or should I make one? How difficult would that be?
          There are lots of options. I make my own, but you can buy them too. In Australia, b6t guys throw the factory ones away (because they are ugly and the tuners don't know any better). You could buy one from an Australian who doesn't want to use it. There are some really good universal separators out there. My favorite is the Mann Provent.
          A quick google search will bring up a lot of separators. This isn't new information to the performance automotive world, it just seems to have slipped through the cracks in the Mazda circle. I've been putting air oil separation systems on turbo engines for almost 20 years now.
          Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-11-2017, 01:08 PM.
          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Rick the Quick View Post
            You can find a nice one on eBay....Mann is the manufacturer. They run about $85 Or you can buy one from China for about $25 from a guy that knows absolutely nothing about making one. Mann makes diesel engines and engine components. If you have a lot of time to spare make your own. For me it's easier to send $85 and get one that will work 1st time. Just my 2 cents.
            Beat me to it! Lol
            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
              Beat me to it! Lol
              Learned from you Charlie. I understand the importance of crankcase scavenging and the $85 night be a lot of money to some (like the guy that knows how to make one) but to me it's money well spent. I got enough projects to keep me busy around here without the trial and error of building one. I want a good one that was made by a manufacturer that knows what they are doing not a guy in China that's is clueless.
              '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
              '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
              '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

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              • #52
                Maybe one of these would work


                '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
                '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
                '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

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                • #53
                  I never thought about using a boxster separator. That may actually work well. Hmm
                  Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                    I never thought about using a boxster separator. That may actually work well. Hmm
                    Hey Charlie, I will let you know. For $30 delivered it seems to good to pass up. Being used I imagine it will need a good clean up but on the other hand there's no moving parts to wear out. Now I am one step closer to turning the key!
                    '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
                    '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
                    '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      After transferring a bunch of parts and putting in new seals, the car is back up and running - now with a dipstick! It is still burning oil but I'm fairly certain that it is the turbo now. I checked it before putting it back in and there's quite a bit of shaft play, which is unfortunate. I assume this happened when I was low on oil



                      I broke my first thermostat housing. I'll be heading to the junkyard to pull another one this weekend. Right now the broken housing is held together by RTV. It doesn't seem to leak, but I won't be driving it much until I put the new housing in.

                      Once I put together some money from selling Capri parts, I'll order an oil separator. I'll probably look for a junkyard turbo as well at some point. For now I'm just happy to have it back on the road!
                      1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
                      1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
                      2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

                      You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

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                      • #56
                        Wheres that new valve cover?

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                        • #57
                          Oh, I'm going to put it on soon! I just didn't want to damage it when I put the engine in. I'll be sure to post a picture when I put it on
                          1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
                          1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
                          2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

                          You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

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                          • #58
                            Get that bad turbo out of there before it sends bearing material into your oil.
                            91GL BP/F3A with boost
                            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by bhazard View Post
                              Get that bad turbo out of there before it sends bearing material into your oil.
                              Are there decent rebuild kits available anywhere?
                              1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
                              1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
                              2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

                              You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                I've seen a few kits on line but not sure of the quality.
                                But ihi turbo of America is in shelbyille il.
                                Just a couple hours south of you. You could give them a call and see if they would have anything but it's a pretty old turbo so they may not have any parts.
                                You could check with roo-sport and see if he has any good turbos. I believe hes up by you too.

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