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Alice and The Festicle

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    In case anyone else needs to know, this little pin has a clip around it
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    WD40, gently work it back and forth with a small hammer, and it will pop out. Catch it when it does. I almost lost mine
    Does anyone know if there is a place to buy a new rubber guide that goes around the roll up windows?

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Oh, like an oscillating blade or something?

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Yes, but mine came off super easy, i just pulled it up by hand and a shop vac, no tools. Probably to do with the climate...
    The air chisel was a bit of a joke. I couldnt think of the name of the tool i was thinking of. Made by dremel. Multimax or something? Basically a vibrating sharpened putty knife.

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ryanprins13; 10-19-2017, 11:17 PM.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Have you done it like that before? Not gonna use an air chisel. I want this floor pan to stay straight

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Heat gun/hair dryer?
    Thin putty knife like you use for drywall.
    Blow compressed air underneath.
    Air chisel....

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Trying to scrape off the factory insulation. This crap is a lot tougher than I expected. Soaking it with acetone helped a little bit, but there must be an easier way to do this...
    image.jpg

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Got the rear glass out. Just lay it down somewhere soft, press on one corner with your boot and pull up on the metal, then work the rubber around. I used my plastic trim tool set. I knew it would be more handy than advertised
    image.jpg

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Just pressure washed the engine bay
    image.jpg
    Some rust on the LL rails from the battery.
    image.jpg
    How should I go about cleaning this up? Paint stripper, rinse, scrub with water and baking soda, apply POR15 rust inhibitor, then paint?
    Also, starting to find rust in the seams.
    image.jpg
    Suggestions? Thanks guys

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    So I can find this later:

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    I don't know that I'm quite to the level of constructing a welding in a U channel without warpage, but I can certainly attach new ones with spotwelds like the old ones.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    If you can tie the new ones in first, that should do the trick. You could also U channel from the subframe laterally to the tunnel and then to the pinch weld. But for/aft placement would need serious consideration.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Would it be a good idea to make two more trusses for each side (left/right), place them on each side of the factory trusses (front/back), and then remove the factory ones? My new ones would probably of slightly thicker steel, but lower profile to allow more room. I think that would be stronger with lateral crush without adding too much twist resistance for chassis flex

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Yes those are structural. They tie directly to the door sill and keep the floor from sagging.

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    They are for keeping the intrusion of a side impact less. I would keep them. Or get rid of them and replace with something stronger.

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Are these brackets structural? Or are they just for mounting the front seats? I'm quite tall, so I would like to mount my seat as low as possible, but they might be in the way. I would like to remove or alter them if they are.
    image.jpg

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