In case anyone else needs to know, this little pin has a clip around it
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WD40, gently work it back and forth with a small hammer, and it will pop out. Catch it when it does. I almost lost mine
Does anyone know if there is a place to buy a new rubber guide that goes around the roll up windows?
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Alice and The Festicle
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Yes, but mine came off super easy, i just pulled it up by hand and a shop vac, no tools. Probably to do with the climate...
The air chisel was a bit of a joke. I couldnt think of the name of the tool i was thinking of. Made by dremel. Multimax or something? Basically a vibrating sharpened putty knife.
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using TapatalkLast edited by ryanprins13; 10-19-2017, 11:17 PM.
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Have you done it like that before? Not gonna use an air chisel. I want this floor pan to stay straight
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Heat gun/hair dryer?
Thin putty knife like you use for drywall.
Blow compressed air underneath.
Air chisel....
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Trying to scrape off the factory insulation. This crap is a lot tougher than I expected. Soaking it with acetone helped a little bit, but there must be an easier way to do this...
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Got the rear glass out. Just lay it down somewhere soft, press on one corner with your boot and pull up on the metal, then work the rubber around. I used my plastic trim tool set. I knew it would be more handy than advertised
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Just pressure washed the engine bay
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Some rust on the LL rails from the battery.
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How should I go about cleaning this up? Paint stripper, rinse, scrub with water and baking soda, apply POR15 rust inhibitor, then paint?
Also, starting to find rust in the seams.
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Suggestions? Thanks guys
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I don't know that I'm quite to the level of constructing a welding in a U channel without warpage, but I can certainly attach new ones with spotwelds like the old ones.
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If you can tie the new ones in first, that should do the trick. You could also U channel from the subframe laterally to the tunnel and then to the pinch weld. But for/aft placement would need serious consideration.
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Would it be a good idea to make two more trusses for each side (left/right), place them on each side of the factory trusses (front/back), and then remove the factory ones? My new ones would probably of slightly thicker steel, but lower profile to allow more room. I think that would be stronger with lateral crush without adding too much twist resistance for chassis flex
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Yes those are structural. They tie directly to the door sill and keep the floor from sagging.
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They are for keeping the intrusion of a side impact less. I would keep them. Or get rid of them and replace with something stronger.
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Are these brackets structural? Or are they just for mounting the front seats? I'm quite tall, so I would like to mount my seat as low as possible, but they might be in the way. I would like to remove or alter them if they are.
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